260DET Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 Info on someone making swap parts for the Z31 which look like they may be able to be used for a S130 swap as well, here http://z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27070 Anyone who can contribute more knowledge on this topic? Post away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tec280zx Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 I would only buy the rear mounting setup that he offers, the front won't work for us. On the z31, the front mounts are actually wider than the s13, whereas the s130 is narrower. If he sold just the rear studs that he had custom machined I might purchase them. Note that we don't have the same diff mounts either that they use to align the metal plate. Not really a problem though as you can just remove your original mount. For my setup, I am leaning towards the same solution for the rear. Steel plate with the studs welded in and then weld the plate to the frame member. That seems to be the easiest way to get the subframe straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
appsy Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 +1 I agree with tec280zx but i'm going to have to try somthing like this because I have already snapped one axle and i'm going to add a lot more power so I'm going to have to do something like this to strengthen the rear end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovenfood Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 the front mounts are actually wider than the s13, whereas the s130 is narrower. Yes but there is nothing saying that you have to weld it on at the same angle as the Z31 guys do. I wonder if the front bracket could still be used just facing inwards instead of outwards. I think at best this is a good refrance and the same affect could be achived using similar methods. (especially for Australians I think this could be "copied" and done cheaper than for us to buy one and have it shiped here) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forcer Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 (edited) I would only buy the rear mounting setup that he offers, the front won't work for us. On the z31, the front mounts are actually wider than the s13, whereas the s130 is narrower. If he sold just the rear studs that he had custom machined I might purchase them. Note that we don't have the same diff mounts either that they use to align the metal plate. Not really a problem though as you can just remove your original mount. For my setup, I am leaning towards the same solution for the rear. Steel plate with the studs welded in and then weld the plate to the frame member. That seems to be the easiest way to get the subframe straight. This is exactly what I was discussing with my engineering friend, who is the same person I'm getting my subframe from. When I get ahold of him again I'll post up the solution he came up with. And due to being easily excitable, I didn't notice that the S13 LCA's were wider until I tried to install them. Do you think it would be a good idea to grab an S13 front crossmember aswell? Edited May 12, 2011 by Forcer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovenfood Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 Do you think it would be a good idea to grab an S13 front crossmember aswell? If anything I'd get a R31 crossmember and turn it around or something to that effect, also the mounts on SR20's is odd so an S13 crossmember is really not a great thing :< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 The good thing to know is that the rear cradle mounts line up with the S130's rear Xmember, the one the diff mounts on. Having a rear structural member right where it's needed is a big plus for a lot of reasons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tec280zx Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 Yes but there is nothing saying that you have to weld it on at the same angle as the Z31 guys do. I wonder if the front bracket could still be used just facing inwards instead of outwards. I think at best this is a good refrance and the same affect could be achived using similar methods. (especially for Australians I think this could be "copied" and done cheaper than for us to buy one and have it shiped here) True, there is definitely more than one way to skin a cat. I'll be doing the fronts a bit differently than the group buy linked above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tec280zx Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 The good thing to know is that the rear cradle mounts line up with the S130's rear Xmember, the one the diff mounts on. Having a rear structural member right where it's needed is a big plus for a lot of reasons. Yup, it works out pretty good. You pretty much have to mount it right where the rear frame piece is in order to get the wheel centered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tec280zx Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 For the plate that will house the new rear studs, what thickness do you guys think I should use? I have some 3/8 x 3 inch wide steel that I have lying around that I was thinking of using, but it seems like it might be too thick (and heavy). Never welded on the Z's chassis before and it seems pretty thin. Maybe more along the lines of 1/4 or so? Also, I plan to get some solid aluminum bushings for the rear and have the machine shop bore it out for the 7/8th bolts to slide into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forcer Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 If anything I'd get a R31 crossmember and turn it around or something to that effect, also the mounts on SR20's is odd so an S13 crossmember is really not a great thing :< R31 pieces are hard to come by here, and I have no intention of putting an SR20 in my Z. It's getting a V-8. More on topic, has anyone considered a Z33 rear subframe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 Fabrication/welding section may be the best place to go for good structural mod advice but to get a reasonable ride height the rear mounts should be up against the Xmember and not spaced down. Remember too that the angle of the suspension subframe front to back affects anti squat, generally speaking the lower the front/the higher the back the less anti squat effect. When doing this job its a good idea to be aware of the effect different alignments will have, it's not simply a 'how can I fit this' job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tec280zx Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Fabrication/welding section may be the best place to go for good structural mod advice but to get a reasonable ride height the rear mounts should be up against the Xmember and not spaced down. Remember too that the angle of the suspension subframe front to back affects anti squat, generally speaking the lower the front/the higher the back the less anti squat effect. When doing this job its a good idea to be aware of the effect different alignments will have, it's not simply a 'how can I fit this' job. Yes the alignment of the subframe will definitely affect things, I suppose it will be a lot of dialing in once I mount it. I plan to have the sub frame right up against the body of the car, its just a matter of getting things out of the way. Another issue now is the hard brake lines, specifically where the hard lines slit off to either side of the car. That piece needs to be relocated in order to get the front up another half inch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 Fabrication/welding section may be the best place to go for good structural mod advice but to get a reasonable ride height the rear mounts should be up against the Xmember and not spaced down. Remember too that the angle of the suspension subframe front to back affects anti squat, generally speaking the lower the front/the higher the back the less anti squat effect. When doing this job its a good idea to be aware of the effect different alignments will have, it's not simply a 'how can I fit this' job. Definately. Here is some good reading from an R/C car manufacture but it directly relates to 1:1 scale cars. http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/showfile.php?file_id=6143 and a good reference to how much each item affects handling (eg what to change first for the largest effect). http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/showfile.php?file_id=2531 The R/C cars are extremely adjustable but if you are doing custom stuff things like the sub frame orientation roll centers will affect anti squat and anti dive, etc.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tec280zx Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 Definately. Here is some good reading from an R/C car manufacture but it directly relates to 1:1 scale cars. http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/showfile.php?file_id=6143 and a good reference to how much each item affects handling (eg what to change first for the largest effect). http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/showfile.php?file_id=2531 The R/C cars are extremely adjustable but if you are doing custom stuff things like the sub frame orientation roll centers will affect anti squat and anti dive, etc.... Wow, I didn't know those little RC cars were so involved! I never had ones that cool when I was a kid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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