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My RBzed


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I have been working on my car slowly over the past year and a half. Mainly just collecting parts and working on stuff here and there. I'm starting to get closer to getting the car on the road so i figured its time to start my project thread. The car is a 11/73 260z. The engine is a S2 Rb25det with basic boltons. Once the engine dieds i will rebuild it, hopefully that wont be for awhile though. On with the pictures.

 

The day i got the engine, i'm on the right.

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I had pat1 flip my pan for me, came out great! Thanks again Patrick

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The engine as it sits now, i just put an obx manifold on there for now. The old one had a big crack in it.

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New stage 3 spec clutch and steel FW, i hope its not to grippy for the street.

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Here is the dash i made, i broke mine trying to get it out.

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And in the car

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For fuel i got an Al tank made by boyd welding.

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I have an inline Walbro 255, Running a -8 to the rail and a -6 off the rail to a FPR then back to the tank. I took the vapor tank out but i'm going to run the vent from the fill tube back to the tank.

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For suspension i'm putting new tockio Hp struts and springs in.

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I will also be putting a R200 with 60,xxx in, got it for a great price so i couldn't pass it up.

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On the inside i'm leaving it stripped so i put some sound deadening down. It is made by a company called Edead. It took half a gallon to put one coat on. I would say about five pounds total.

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More to come later!

Edited by motoman
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This weekend i got most of my suspension apart. I had to weld a nut on top of the gland nut and whack the wrench with a hammer to get them to come lose. I got the struts out of the rears, but the fronts are seized in there.

 

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I got the tank mounted, i was a little unsatisfied with the fitment. The back two mounting tabs on the tank didn't line up with the straps they were about an inch to the drivers side. I was able to bend the straps enough to get them to fit. The second and most major problem that came up, was that the fill neck on the tank didn't line up with that of the car. I'm sure i will be able to get it to fit though.

 

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Sorry i haven't got much work done on the car lately, i had another project to work on. It was a 2000 R6 that my brother bought. It had been sitting for awhile. So i had to go through it and clean out the fuel system for him. It runs like a champ now. Here's the bike, hopefully he wont hurt him self on it. I took it for a spin its a pretty sweet bike.

 

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I got a little bit of work done on the car today. All i did was get the rear suspension back on the car. I'm still trying to get the front struts out. I think i might have to break down and take them to a shop. Every time i say I'm going to take something in i get it the next day. So hopefully that happens with these too. I'm also still working on the fuel set up. I got my surge tank and my prime pump for it. Now i just need to mount all of it. Easier said then done though.

 

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Ebay surge tank

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Jegs low pressure high flow pump

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Got my boost gauge too

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fuel rail adapter for AFPR

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tomie type s FPR

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fuel pump relays

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  • 4 weeks later...

I finally got the car back on the ground. I had to get new strut housings for the fronts. The old ones were stuck in there good. I ended up bending them try to get the cartridge out. I plan on put the engine in really soon. I will keep you guys posted. I haven't seen the car like this in over a year. Its getting closer, yet still so far away.

 

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Monkeyt88:Good idea welding the nut on the gland nut. I might just weld a large nut on for ease of assembly or diss assembly.

 

The only problem i would see with keeping the nut on there. Is that it would take away from some travel on the strut. It might cause some bump steer if you have lowered the car. I'm sure you could cut the nut in half, but would it really be worth the work? Welding it on really did help with breaking the gland nut. On two of the gland nuts i had to weld it on twice, because it would break the top part of the gland nut off. The biggest problem i had with the suspension was that the front strut cartridges were seized.

 

 

I still need to mount my surge tank. Its a pretty tight space to work in. I know what I'm going to do with it, now i just need to do it. Then it should be mostly down hill from there. I can't wait to here the RB!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Last night i got around to dropping the engine into the car. It took me a little over three hours to do it. That was the first engine i have ever put into a car. It was a great learning experience. Now i just need to get my transmission lined up so my drive shaft wont make a bunch of noise/vibration. I was thinking of putting it around two or three degrees of center. What do you guys think i should go with. I've read that three degrees is about as far as you want to go.

 

I had heard that you can use bread to get a pilot bearing out. I'm confirming that it does work.

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New flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate are on.

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Matting the trany and engine.

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In the bay

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As far back as i can get it.

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This could be a problem. It looks like the throttle body will hit the side. I might have to get creative with this part.

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How the car sits. I think the right height looks really good. Some 16 inch wheels on a low profile tire will fill out the wells pretty well. That not first on the list though. Right now i'm going to start wiring. See if i can get the engine to crank over, and maybe even idle.

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  • 2 months later...

This could be a problem. It looks like the throttle body will hit the side. I might have to get creative with this part.

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I have the same intake manifold. What I did was cut the flange of and straightned the intake manifold to direct the tb flange towards the 3 inch opening hole that is on that side. Just remember to factor in the radiator when you take your measurements.

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