clutchdust Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 I have a pretty cancerous left rear fender on the '72. I went boneyard hopping a couple weeks back and came across an early S30 (don't remember the exact year) that had surprisingly good rear fenders. I asked the yard operator how much for the fender and he told me $100 to cut as much of the quarter panel out as I wanted. So, if I decide to do this, how much fender should I cut out of the donor and are there particular seams I need to follow to properly graft the replacement into my car? As for the thread, if this isn't the right place, let me know where it needs to go. Apparently I am teh suck at putting threads in the right forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Cut along the body lines, and cut straight. All the way from the door to the taillight panel. This is more a of a welding/fabrication post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 My personal reccomendation is to get a patch that will require the LEAST amount of welding on the exterior of the car. I replaced the quarter panel on my old chevelle by doing it on the body line and that was the number one biggest PITA ive ever had. The entire body line was bondo and i never got it looking close to decent If i were you i would cut along the window channel, through that small gap between the quarter window and the hatch opening, and then try to cut out the recessed portion into the channel so you may be able to spot/rosette weld that seam together. The less welding you can do on the exterior the better it will look in the end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clutchdust Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 I like the idea of cutting and welding around the window channel, but what about the inner fender portion? Mine is rusted in the inner sheetmetal also. Result of crappy repair years back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 (edited) I'm with Fuzzydice on this one, cut the whole quarter of the car out...top of the "C" pillar, and through the tail light, up the floor between the spare tire and muffler, up over the inner wheel arch inboard of the welded seam between the 'outer inner' and 'inner inner' wheel well, through the tool compartment area, and out the floor towards the front side of the rocker panel seam. This allows you to 'work from the backside taking apart the panels you DON'T NEED (the inside parts) at their spotwelds... This gives you the knowledge you will need when it comes time to take the actual car you are repairing apart. And how far you need to go to access the welds you need. The LAST thing I would recommend is welding or cutting along a body-line!!! Even with a flange-maker that will be a bodge. Simply reskin the WHOLE panel, don't patch it along the longest lines you can possibly use! There is a REASON the factory joined panels where they did. It makes the quickest finish time, with the least visible impact on the finish of the product when it's out there under the eye of the consumer. You would be wise to follow their lead! Buy a spotweld cutter and thin chisel(or sharpen a 'superbar' and use it as a panel knife to separate those spotweld cut flanges... Do some searches on "Quarter Panel Replacement" and you should find plenty of illustrated examples. They're not Fenders on the back, they're 1/4 Panels...unless you got a Volkswagen Beetle, or some old old old car which actually has that section of car that bolts on. Fenders are generally bolted. "There are no front quarter panels, they are fenders." is what my old Body and Frame instructor would say. I of course would press on asking the difference and it was 'welding versus bolting' so then VW and Corvair came up since Corvairs have welded fenders by his definition and that would make them 'front quarter panels'... I didn't fail the class, but the discussion ceased and I was warned not to waste class time again. Before the internet, there was shop class... Edited July 10, 2011 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 (edited) I just refer to the fronts as fenders and the rear as quarters, regardless of mounting keeps the confusion down. Anywho, clutchdust. Another peice of advice. Find someone with a TIG Welder to do the welding on the exterior panels. TIG welds are softer than MIG welds and are easier to hammer flat and will require less grinding and filler. the main reason i said to keep the welding on the exterior panel to the minimum is because of the hardness of the weld. Especially with mig welds, on a hot day, the panel will heat up, and the weld and the surrounding metal will heat up at different rates, and the seam where you welded WILL be visible(but will disappear when the panel cools off again). Tigging the seam, especially where you cross the c pillar, will lessen the severity of the effect, hopefully to the point that it wont be easily noticeable. Granted, doing this will require immaculate fitment of the patch, so migging may still be the better option Edited July 10, 2011 by Fuzzydicerule Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 People have moved on to 'lectricity to do body work? Wow, what's next? A lightweight alternative to lead? Oh, I've been in the sauce again, it's makin' me talk CRAZY talk..."lightweight alternative to lead" like that will ever happen... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.