Ham8urger Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 Well I ended up getting Sakura Garage coilovers with their bolt in camber plates... Should arrive any day now. http://sakuragarage.com/products/datsun-suspension/ And I actually decided against the Shakotans and got the Rota RKR's. 15x9 0 offset with 205/50/15's Dunlop Direzza DZ102's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangetang Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 (edited) Ran into a bit of a conumdrum test fitting my 15x9-0mm Shakotans on my Z the other night... Installed GC coilovers with a 2.5" OD spring, 4 piston Wilwoods and AZcar a-arms and knuckles... Rim doesn't clear the tie rod end, not even close. I'm out in the field right now, but when I get back I'll do the other 3 corners, see if the rears clear the brakes (same front and rear) and go from there. Maybe I'll need to revert back to straight knuckles or run a large spacer...? With the 15x9-0mm it looks like I can get away with a fairly wide spacer and still stay under the fender lip with some camber. I'll post more pics, and info regarding these rims and Wilwood calipers / bump spacer clearance as I find out a solution. If the rod end wasn't in the way, it's questionable that these would clear the calipers anyway. Edited June 26, 2014 by Orangetang Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangetang Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 Any idea what the minimum thickness of hubcentric spacer with its own pressed studs is that will burry the stock wheel studs? Or I suppose, what's the exposed stud length on the front hubs? Someone post a photo of the back of a shakotan if you don't mind. Maybe they have pockets for some stud protrusion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted June 27, 2014 Share Posted June 27, 2014 Do you have roll center spaces or adjustable tie rod ends? I'm fairly positive their are pockets between bolt holes on the mounting flange. I can snap a pic when I pick up my wheel from the tire shop this aft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangetang Posted June 27, 2014 Share Posted June 27, 2014 Yes, the knuckles have a built in spacer, dropping the rod end about 1". That would be awesome. I'm still stuck in the field, and wouldn't mind getting some spacers in he mail, rather than getting these measurments from home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ol doc gully Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Awesome, looking forward to seeing those on your car - been very surprised more people don't buy the RKRs. Well I ended up getting Sakura Garage coilovers with their bolt in camber plates... Should arrive any day now.http://sakuragarage.com/products/datsun-suspension/And I actually decided against the Shakotans and got the Rota RKR's. 15x9 0 offset with 205/50/15's Dunlop Direzza DZ102's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ham8urger Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 I will post pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaPimpShrimp Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 My 15x9 Shakotans are going on today! Discount Tire Direct got me some 225/50 Kumho's for $324 to my door (Plus a $50 rebate). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaPimpShrimp Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 (edited) My 15x9 Shakotans are going on today! Discount Tire Direct got me some 225/50 Kumho's for $324 to my door (Plus a $50 rebate). Hey guys, so according to the shop attempting to install the new wheels, I don't have room for the 15x9 Shakotans with 225/50 Kumho Ecstas. This is with an 8mm spacer also. Those of you running a spacer, what type/size did you need? And did you need to install longer wheel studs? They also said that was an issue. I was hoping to be running this new combo tomorrow but apparently that isn't happening. Edit: Answered a lot of my own questions, I'll be swapping the front studs out for some S14 ones (41.5mm I believe). You guys think the 8mm(5/16in) spacer is enough? The guy at the tire shop said I should go for a 1/2in for a bit more clearance. Edited July 12, 2014 by ThaPimpShrimp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Hey guys, so according to the shop attempting to install the new wheels, I don't have room for the 15x9 Shakotans with 225/50 Kumho Ecstas. This is with an 8mm spacer also. Those of you running a spacer, what type/size did you need? And did you need to install longer wheel studs? They also said that was an issue. I was hoping to be running this new combo tomorrow but apparently that isn't happening. Edit: Answered a lot of my own questions, I'll be swapping the front studs out for some S14 ones (41.5mm I believe). You guys think the 8mm(5/16in) spacer is enough? The guy at the tire shop said I should go for a 1/2in for a bit more clearance. I had to run an 8mm spacer in the front to clear the springs which involved swapping to longer S14 studs. Sounds like you're right on track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangetang Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Looks like 1 1/8" spacer would be the minimum to clear a tie rod end mounted to AZC knuckles. I'm tempted to order a set of 4x114.3mm wheel adapters just to see how it sits, but I'm thinking it'll look pretty stupid. This is with a 0 offset 15x9 shakotan. To clear Wilwood discs, I think 1/4" would be fine, so the other option is to lose the knuckles and see if the stock ones fit, or drill out the AZC knuckles a bit so the rod end ball joint sits higher. This 15" rim isn't a great fit for aftermarket brakes or for use with LCA drop spacers, it appears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaPimpShrimp Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 (edited) Finally got them on! Edited July 20, 2014 by ThaPimpShrimp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangetang Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Look great. Are you on height adjustable coilovers? 2.5" springs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaPimpShrimp Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Look great. Are you on height adjustable coilovers? 2.5" springs? Just Eibach lowering springs. They fit pretty well, any lower and I'd probably rub but as is I have no issues and won't even have to roll the fenders. Someday I'd like coils but it isn't in the budget at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McDatsun Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 (edited) any updates on your wheel setup? i have a 1972 240z currently building exactly what you are. t3 weld coilovers t3 bump steer t3 lower control arm t3 tie rod t3 camber plate weld t3 tension rod wilwood 4 piston 12.2 roto slotted brakes. where im stuck is wheels and studs. currently running old school boyd's trying to buy a set of Rota Rkr 15s so my 15's wont clear the tie rod because of the t3 bump steer. so my guess is now add wheel spacers/ longer studs. any info on running rota rkr 15s without spacers? and would they clear the tie rod. Edited July 21, 2014 by McDatsun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangetang Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Well, if you already know that 15s probably will not clear your lowered tie rod ends, you should plan on going with a narrower rim to account for the spacers or offset you'll need. I'm playing guinea pig again, waiting on 1" adapters and 1/4" spacers to arrive for a test fit to see what is really needed. The issue is, you might end up running >1" of spacing, and require flares. It's possible the T3 bump steer spacers would work since they're not as tall, but they're also going to be bolted to longer knuckles, so they might REALLY not fit. The good news is, you can just remove them if they don't fit until you figure out a rim fitment. With my zero offset rim, the front and rear wilwood calipers hit the inside of the wheel. A zero offset wheel will not clear them. When you pull everything apart and do your wheel bearings, you might aswell install some new longer studs. I wouldn't bother with the nismo 50mm ones though. That's a little overkill for what you'll be running. S14 studs should be PLENTY long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangetang Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Also, if it isn't ordered yet, look at the AZC stuff instead. Keep in mind the LCAs include ball joints and tension rods. Their steering knuckles are shortened and include the drop spacer. If you're set on the TTT stuff, give er. I think their automated shipping charge of several hundred dollars is why I opted out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McDatsun Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 (edited) already ordered the TTT stuff. i dont think i can remove those bumpsteers again. the threads are really old and weak itll be a great risk to not strip them. its a hastle to not strip anything on this vehicle with its age. here is the Dorman 240z stud size. still looking to see what i can run. .512 to translate the front. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/xibeacx/20140716_170400.jpg Dorman 610 - 240 http://s2.photobucket.com/user/xibeacx/media/20140716_170352.jpg.html Dorman 610 - 340 Edited July 23, 2014 by McDatsun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McDatsun Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 another solution was to run the enkies Compe in 16's... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangetang Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 (edited) Not the best of pics, but here are 15x9 -0 on 1" spacers with a little camber. Wider than I'd like... but easier than all other alternatives, assuming I can massage a little room for these things to turn left and right out of the fender, tension rods, and control arms... Felt like the 1/4" spacer would work to clear the wilwood calipers, but the tie-rod issue isn't going away so easily. As is, the brakes are still a tight fit, and the tie-rod is about 3/16" from the rim lip... Edited August 3, 2014 by Orangetang Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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