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ol doc gully

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Everything posted by ol doc gully

  1. Cutting out the whole thing adds a lot of complication (up high on the other side of the firewall, etc), this is not a bare chassis restoration. However, that is a much better deal on a bead roller than I would have expected, may be worth getting regardless... I'm curious if the panel will start to bow or anything by increasing the width but I think that is workable, I may go this way. Thank you both for your input.
  2. I am repairing rust under battery tray. Going to do the firewall piece first but can't figure out what the best way is to get a piece to match with the stamped / bead roll shape? If you look at the picture of the area you can see the line of approx where I need to cut to replace rusted bits (approx, will keep grinding to confirm). I definitely do not want or need to cut up high enough to be above all of the stamped shapes, so regardless of exactly where I cut I need to figure out how to fit these shapes. The drawing is my best stab at how I might go about fitting a piec
  3. I'll take the COOLANT CROSSOVER TUBE if it is what I think it is - sent you a PM. Thanks.
  4. I would think it’d be really tough to be that precise, with such small offsets, enough that may be worth it to just use two flanges and some straight pipe, maybe with a lil pie cutting?
  5. Would you mind posting some examples? 225/60-15 is (to me) the perfect size tire for the Z, but all I can find are crappy all-seasons (or hoosier bias ply), just want to make sure I’m not missing anything. 235/50 R888R is a bit of a compromise bit that is a wiiiiiiiiiiiide tire. 225/50 R888R is my leading choice now.
  6. sounds good, will be interested to see it come together. The good thing about the ZX12R throttles is they have the same spacing as the DCOEs (90mm) so I’ll just have to space out each pair; there’s definitely trade offs with any of em though.
  7. stumbled across your other thread, im actually slowly putting together a setup with ZX12R ITBs. have the manifold and one set of ITBs, going to start the spacing and mounting shortly and order the second set, no rush though as I am overseas and my car is in a barn so its just a fun basement tinker project. have any pics of the triumph ITBs you are using? one thing i havent seen you discuss, with regard to fuel setup, is that youll want some baffling or, as i'm doing, a surge tank (or fuel cell)
  8. pretty great walkthrough for compressor size calculations from Garrett: https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/choosing_turbo
  9. ive been surprised at how much abuse mine has taken but thats incredible. how long might it have been running without coolant? it was completely empty? its also the main reason i will stick with the L series - worry free vintage lapping.
  10. been a while but came across some more pics from mid-ohio i realized i never posted on here
  11. the main/easy correlation is with length - short runners for high rpm performance, long runners for low rpm performance. this has to do with benefits from tuning for pressure waves as much as actual flow. diameter has to do with velocity and so is more of a dependent variable based on other design factors. i like the idea of this manifold for a mild/street turbo application though. long runners for good low rpm response and boost for high rpm. i think the runners are still a bit long for that though, so i think you're idea of welding a plenum to the lower section is great. but what
  12. i know this is an old thread but as a person looking into these kinds of setups i havent found a more concentrated source of useful information so i think it deserves a bump i've been specifically researching the holley terminator EFI to replace the holley 390 on my clifford for a turbo setup -- SuperDan, did you ever go turbo? very glad to hear the terminator CFM isnt too high, was worried about the same. i also definitley would not have thought of the heat shield being so necessary. anybody else using any of these 4bbl TBI setups in a turbo application? also curious how well th
  13. Haha OK.. let me know if you don't end up using it.
  14. hmm PM me how much... i come to Rochester often for work but thats still not too close to you so we'd probably have to ship
  15. How much is left on the table with a square port header on round port head? It's the setup I've always had since its how my car came, but just wondering how motivated I should be to replace it. Seems like it would be leaving a lot on the table, so just curious if anybody has switched between the two. (Sorry, i know its an old thread, but is the main one that keeps coming up through search and most relevant so figured I'd ask here.)
  16. you should get some glamour shots on the stand with both the fuel line block and the head assembled - i bet they would make facebook rounds quite quickly and get you some more interested parties ...as well as dress up my work laptop desktop
  17. man... the fuel lines and ITBs really brought this thing to life. love the motivation, care and crafstsmanship. thanks for letting us peak in, its a pleasure to be following.
  18. got into one of the last track days at Mid Ohio - great success, car ran flawlessly then just this past weekend finally made it out for a cruise in Hocking Hills, and got some good pictures in before winter hibernation. AWESOME roads out there, will be going back a lot in 2016
  19. Yeah I'm not too keen on a buzzer but I am going to toy with different light placements - I'm kind of thinking if I place one near the windshield defrost vent it may work as a makeshift heads up display... as long as its bright enough... Otherwise the clam shell is at least the least worrisome part to drill into so i may just put a more subtle light there.
  20. Well, it looks like i'm already on the path set forward by dirt cheap chinese manufacturing, but I do appreciate that input; especially since I'd likely be going that route if/when the ebay piece breaks.
  21. Yeah I never had any problems switching to electronic dizzy but have definitely heard of others'. Ordered the dirt cheap shift light so I'll let y'all know 'how' crappy it is ..eventually, apparently it's coming over from China via canoe.
  22. I am just trying my darndest to keep the dash OEM looking with only subtle hints of race car-ness, so would definitly like to keep the OEM gauge; but youre right, that doesnt look out of place at all. Was trying to find some useful reviews of those dirt cheap shift lights ($12 ones that pop up as "1000-11000 RPM adjustable aluminum shift light") This guy appears to have done pretty much exactly what im talking about as far as taking it apart and using a separate light bulb, and did it with the same light im talking about so i may just try it... http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/small-shif
  23. Oh wow... I had looked all over Jegs and Summit and Amazon and not seen anything for less than $50 (and most of those required separate sending units). The tach+shift lights are on ebay for $40, and separate shift lights are on there for only $12. What a world we live in. Hope it lasts... I was actually hoping for a bit more 'subtle' installed look but this is still certainly the way to go, maybe I'll tear it apart and just mount the light somewhere. Thanks Jester.
  24. With my seating position, my small-diameter fat-ring steering wheel is blocking my tach view right in the key areas. OK for DD but already at the first autox I had to keep hunching over and was undesireably encumbered. So I'm looking to make a shift light/indicator for my 72 240Z. Still in the concept stages and any suggestions/resources/corrections are greatly appreciated; I've found a surprising lack of any information of this kind. Im aiming at passive electronics, but may consider Arduino. I'm comfortable with either but mostly just would like to figure out how such a shift li
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