munters Posted August 22, 2013 Author Share Posted August 22, 2013 Yes I went myself with a trailer. Do you know him? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munters Posted November 6, 2013 Author Share Posted November 6, 2013 (edited) Combo Switch assembled With a bit of engine delays and body delays the project goes a bit further. Forged Pistons and Rods Assembled stroked L24 bottom Measured and ported head ported manifold and assembled carbs Engine on the Dyno Second engine dyno session (my excel sheet from the numbers) hope soon some pics from the body as well. In the meanwhile im still rebuilding all the gauges and cover all the internal panels with leather. Picture added and final dyno. Edited November 14, 2013 by munters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munters Posted November 15, 2013 Author Share Posted November 15, 2013 (edited) As you can see on the last picture this Dyno was done with the Cast Manifold (ported) and 2.5" Exhaust. Meaning TonyD was right. The loss is not high. (I doubt with headers it would give a lot more power then 272BHP). The engine Custom L28 Crank (stroked) Custom forged J&E piston billet connecting rods, Still with a "mild" 227 Cam. .480 lift. 10:1 Compression Aluminum Flywheel and 280 clutch displacement 2.75L Tripple DCOE-45 OER Original 240z distributor with Pertronix for the moment (later Mallory Unilite) smoewhere I had to stop MSD 6AL-2 Programmable 36° max. Advance The last thing powerwise will be a 2.5" exhaust pipe with flowmaster resonator and my Original ANSA-end customized to fit the pipe. and the measure if I don't surepass the max 73db. I'm pretty happy with the results. Im also creating a 240z font for windows 7 to rebuild my gauges (I will use a 280 Voltmeter to replace the AMP gauge). The 240 and 280 are not the same font. Therefore I decided to make my own. I will putt the ttf files on here when im done. (Within the next 30 days I hope) Edited November 15, 2013 by munters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munters Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 Just 2 Numbers to go for my project. It's cool to have a Windows 7 TrueType Font fully scalable here in 72 dots a sample Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 (edited) "As you can see on the last picture this Dyno was done with the Cast Manifold (ported) and 2.5" Exhaust. Meaning TonyD was right." Heh heh heh... Muahahaha! I love it, yet another dyno-sheet to support skills and tuning rather than mindless parts swapping! This is basically an oversize L26 turned to L28 (L24 over bored with offset ground L28 crank to give 2750cc's!)... Nice numbers indeed! You can definitely see where the cam "comes on" at 3900 rpms and gives flat hp peak between 6300 and 7300... Very nice indeed! I think dumping to a 3" exhaust would pick you up the same or nearly the same as extractors. For the doubters: "See what happens when you think of the system, and not an amalgam of bolt-on parts individually as some sort of magic-bullet cookie cutter formula?" Edited November 18, 2013 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munters Posted November 20, 2013 Author Share Posted November 20, 2013 3" would be nice but I have to pass the noise regulations I hope to be able with a single 2.5" incl. one muffler and one resonator or a double 2" with two resonatores and one muffler. here the TrueType Font file 240.ttf to repaint the Gauges. 240Z.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 (edited) Either should work. The 3" should be lower frequency than the smaller. I have been working on a Z432 Copy using dual 2.5" pipes.... Why? Let's just say that's my little secret! It will be quiet, that is for sure. Muahahahaha! You have to pass noise regulations for inspection, right? A supplemental baffle you insert up the tailpipe can really cork up the sound for inspection and then easily removed and placed in the glove box or cubby holes behind the seats! Edited November 20, 2013 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munters Posted November 20, 2013 Author Share Posted November 20, 2013 A "plug" baffle was also in my mind . Yes the regulations are a bit tricky. 73db from 7 meter distance pass by with 30miles engine in gear to have between 2500 an 3000 full throttle. pretty hard to meet i guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 I'm still trying to figure why they would have just welded new metal over the rusted out metal. That just completely doesn't make any sense. This new body shop sounds like they've got the extra parts to get you fixed up. Though the parts are still relatively rare where you are and where the car is being repaired, so that won't be cheap. if you need more, I think I already sent you the name of the Z recycler here. He sends parts all over the world. This is starting to look like more than just a slide past the local regs build and much more a full restore-mod. It looks like the Engine shop is doing a great job. I'm impressed by the #'s the engine put down NA. As for the noise, perhaps you could just swap mufflers every couple years. Did you ever check into getting exceptions on any of the inspections? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 MAKE SURE you have a proper inlet box or silencer on the intake. Those regulations are similar, and the noise (ESPECIALLY on four-cylinders) comes from INDUCTION at those points! The inlet is barking pretty good, and that is about where a set of triples gets really loud, just before or coming into the torque band. How the microphone is positioned is also important, is it 90 degrees to direction of travel, or tangential coming/going. Each would be very sensitive to the direction of the exhaust tip. You see many taking a 30 or larger degree upturn in back....that is aimed right at the California test which specifies distance behind the pipe and the method to test. When you know the test method you can tweak your system to play around with it sound is directional and some times it's simply turning the tip up that gives you a pass! Third Floor Flat Dwellers will hate it when you pass by, but everybody at street level will not hear that sound directly and it will seem quieter. It got so bad in California that the manufacturers were giving certificates away to people stating their exhaust complied with the testing. People were getting cited for 'loud exhaust' and in fact when tested it passed. But that INTAKE was barking like a rabid dog! And there was no restriction on intake noise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munters Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 Nobody understands such work and it doesn't make any sense. It's even worse. The guy in the bodyshop now told me the car had an accident. Was repaired by exchanging the radiator support welded over the wrinkeld inner fender and needs to go on a jig. (he has like 30 or so z in his garage quite some parts to use) but thanks for your infos. Indeed it is a full resto. but I putt the car in the garage in 1988 with this in my mind. It took just a bit longer to start it then I thought and yes the engine is a good result. Exactly the way i wanted it with even a bit more hp then I thought. About the noise I will first try to pass with a not so restricting system but nead to figure out a bit more about the test. With the idea from tony with the endpipe direction (You explained that in another tread). second partial changable and last full change. The Intake should be ok with the lamborghini filterbox im going to use for the test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munters Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 Some more pics Half shafts powdercoated and reassembled. Strut derusted powdercoated assembled and Big Brake Kit installed Reassembling the Differential The last thing on the suspension is the back. Disc conversion kit I bought did not meet my quality standard. Therefore I have to customize it before I can reassemble the rear struts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 Hmm that's unfortunate about the car having been hit, At least it wasn't bad enough that it was obvious that it had happened. Putting it on the Jig should align everything well enough that it won't ever be an issue. It's not nice to find surprises. Always more $$, no to repair it are they going to pull that Rad support out and fix the wrinkled metal, or are they just going to smooth things as best they can? If he's got parts cars, it may be easier to have him just replace the sections again. Perhaps the whole front, forward of the swap bar mounts? it's up to you how much you'd want him to do, and what you can live with, but in a full restore, knowing it's right is priceless. Please tell us what you're using for your big brakes? It looks like slotted vented calipers, maybe Z31, I'm not certain. I can't identify the calipers, but they look similar to the Skyline calipers, the picture isn't clear enough. What was wrong with the rear brakes? What kit did you buy, and what did you find was wrong with it? Thanks Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 Yes, in the quest for quiet, the EFI S30's actually had a plastic snorkel with silencer built in, that went to the passenger's fender and sucked air from inside there! When you put a CAI on one, it's whistling, wheezing, growling.... It was louder in the car than my double muffler exhaust! So I put the stock box back on. No performance drop. One thing I looked at was the spacing of some of the BMW M-Series Engines and their intake plenum and feed hose. They are heavy...but would definitely muffle intake resonant roar! (The do a nice job on the BMW's!) Good Luck on your tests. Let us know how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munters Posted November 22, 2013 Author Share Posted November 22, 2013 My idea is to have no soldering visible no body filler where possible. Yes I want him to pull that Rad support out and fix the wrinkled metall. I want to have it done right this time. The fronts are Toyota 4 Runner (Piston 43mm, 43mm) with 271mm Rotor vented not slotted. The problem with the back brakes is the template they use to drill the studholes is not well centered. therefore the rotor center is asynchrone to the hub center (would work but not in balance). Now I have to drill the studholes bigger and construct a ring to adjust the two centers (Rotor Center is bigger then the Hubcenter). And TonyD Yes I love The M series engines and intake plenums (I used to be a BMW mechanic in the 80's) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munters Posted November 29, 2013 Author Share Posted November 29, 2013 (edited) This Is the first draft (exportet in jpg) to use with my 3D Printer to print a template. I have also DWG, 3DS, and STL files if someone wants them. To print there are 2 templates. a negative and a positive to spray the colors one after the other. Edited November 29, 2013 by munters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 Nice, What 3d Printer do you have? I've got a Prusa and an i3. I do a little design work. You can also inkjet onto 1mm white plastic. Pretty cool. I wouldn't mind a copy of the design files. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serpentinebelt1978 Posted December 5, 2013 Share Posted December 5, 2013 Good luck! Hope you'll manage to make it an absolute stormer (with patina). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munters Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 Nice, What 3d Printer do you have? I've got a Prusa and an i3. I do a little design work. You can also inkjet onto 1mm white plastic. Pretty cool. I wouldn't mind a copy of the design files. Its a Multimaker I Attached the Fuel and Volt template as a positive and negative (first the white bar and then the small black line in the white ). I din't have the time till now to print them. check them before you print. stl_files.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munters Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share Posted December 22, 2014 (edited) Finally the Body is done... It tooks a lot of time (over a year) and it was frustrating, because I could not go and check it. 600Miles is just to far to go and look quickly. But finally I was able to pick it up and the work he has done is quite good. Edited December 23, 2014 by munters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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