steve260z Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 The 40s are great. Still tweaking and messing with jets. I bought these used and after the cleaning and drilling out a couple of jets I should have bought new ones.. Also bought the Innovate Wideband 02 meter. I can't image trying to figure the jetting procedure with this tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted August 29, 2016 Author Share Posted August 29, 2016 I bought the Eibach springs which lower the car relative to the stock springs. I took out the Tokico springs I've had on the car for years. They really lowered the car more than I wanted and had a really stiff ride. Very happy with these Eibachs....Good ride and no problem with large speed bumps. I woundn't use them for a track only car but great for the street. Pic attached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted September 17, 2016 Author Share Posted September 17, 2016 (edited) Here's the difference between the rear Tokico linear springs and the Eibach Pro Kit Progressive springs. Edited September 17, 2016 by steve260z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismospek Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Did you ever get the power issues figured out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted September 23, 2016 Author Share Posted September 23, 2016 Yea. Bought a wide ban O2 meter, discovered vacuum leaks around the Weber throttle shafts. I continue to tune the webers but have a fairly solid 12-13 AFR now. Pulls real strong. Need to hit that same mobile dyno again to make another run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 Have about 4,000 miles on the motor now. Carbs are really tuned well, running 34 degrees all in. Tested the compression, engine warm and carb wide open. #1 170 180 180 175 180 182 Good numbers. Using the Schneider stage 2 cam, so don't know how much of an impact overlap has on static compression numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 (edited) Here's a video of the end result, so far. Good sounds.... Edited October 7, 2016 by steve260z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 Looking and sounding good! A bit rich at idle for my taste but she runs smooth. Nice job Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted October 8, 2016 Author Share Posted October 8, 2016 (edited) Thanks! In a spot where if I I lean it out for better idle I get popping on over run. So, it's a balance act currently. Still looking at different options on idle jets but great improvement since replacing the leather seals. Steady AFRs Edited October 8, 2016 by steve260z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted October 29, 2016 Author Share Posted October 29, 2016 (edited) My outside passenger door handle is broken. Taking off the door panel and wow.....Now, the previous owner (married couple) were pretty cheap. Like owning a daily driver for 32 years, using spare carpet for floor mats and respraying the car, twice.....Hell, if you can't spend the cash for new floor mats on a car you paid off 27 years ago, that saying something. Here's what I found behind the door panel. Freaking duct tape...My god, that would not be much to fix right. Edited October 29, 2016 by steve260z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zredbaron Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 Hey Steve... I really enjoyed reading your build thread. You did a great job capturing your progress, challenges and breakthroughs. I had several smiles this morning with my coffee. Triple DCOEs have a steep learning curve indeed! I assume you have 34 or 36mm chokes / main venturis in your 40 DCOEs? With a stroker... 34-36mm chokes are mandatory. I'd say 34mm for your build, as the 36mm don't offer much power gain and the 34mm have better drivability. Cheers, my friend. Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted May 25, 2017 Author Share Posted May 25, 2017 Well, thanks!!! I've had a grand time working on the project and positing the various pics. Ya, I'm running 36 chokes. Now, I think I have some 34s round here and reading your post (think it was yours) regarding the small increase in power verses 34s, I'll probably put those back. I do have the 36s dialed in pretty well. I currently have the other problem hanging around regarding the strange dying issue. Need to solve that problem first. You know these cars, something new always pops up regardless of how small it is. Thanks for the smiles...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted June 10, 2017 Author Share Posted June 10, 2017 After 10 minutes of driving, when I come to a stop the car will act like its going to die or will die. This occurs about 50% of the time. If this does not occur I can let the car idle in the driveway and it will start acting like its going to die and will eventually within the next 30 minutes. I can then restart in the car with about a 4 or 5 second crank. Now, if its not in this state of just dying I can turn the car off and restart with a 1 or 2 second start...I think the clues lie here in this 4-5 second crank to start. Now, I've but a voltmeter on the battery as the car dies and the meter reads a consistent 14-14.3 volts while running and dying. When the car dies I can still hear the carter fuel pump running. When it dies the O2 meter will drop down to about 10 AFR from the usually 12 at idle. Now, not sure if this richness is caused by the actual problem or just the result of low bouncing idle at the point of dying which would mess with the vacuum signal the carb sees. Obviously I'm freaking stumped. As mentioned above the 4-5 second crank time on restart is interesting. I've been thinking maybe the fuel is getting too hot, pump is crapping out (only 5K miles on it), all kind of esoteric different Weber ideas and many other ideas... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted June 10, 2017 Author Share Posted June 10, 2017 Ok. I've laid down a basic return line to see the results. So far so good. The rubber fuel line certainly feels cooler. Was pretty hot. I had the line running in front of the motor, the fan blowing on it with hot air. Its just a quick fix. If this works I"ll do a more professional job. Here's a quick video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 Well, it appears it was my coil going bad. Hopefully chapter closed on that pita Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 I put the 34mm chokes back in to compare to the 36s I've been running. On a different thread some flow measurements showed very little difference between the two when fitted in DCOE 40s. Not on my car....34s didn't rev as quickly and produced slower acceleration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted August 11, 2018 Author Share Posted August 11, 2018 Replacing the fuel float. Didn't have to drop the tank. Just removed the straps and pulled it down. Not to bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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