stews280z Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 First off, I already posted this in "model specific", but I decided this was a better place for it... so im having an issue with bleeding my brakes today. i just finished putting the car back together after installing a master bushings kit. its been a long time since ive manually bled brakes, because at work im used to using a pressure bleeder. ok so, my issue is this, i started with a bleed on the left rear ( i know i forgot about the proper rotation before reading other threads a while ago) and everything went great LR to RR to LF. but im having troubles getting the right front to bleed...at all. i cant get any fluid to come out, and i cant get any fluid to be pulled in with a tube from the bleeder valve into a bottle with fluid in it. ive made sure there is no air in my master cylinder, and there is no air whatsoever coming out of the other 3 corners of the car. my first thought was to find why the fluid wasnt getting there, so i semi-removed the line that goes from the proportioning valve to the right front, and watched for drips. there is definitly fluid on the caliper side of the valve...i dont really know where to go from here, whether i need to replace the valve or whatnot. btw the car has been sitting for 2 years before i started working on it again recently. the proportioning valve and the 'dual circuit pressure differential switch' are nowhere close to 'new', however, the master cylinder is new and as far as i can tell, has absolutely no leaks in it. please help guys any bit of info will be greatly appreciated. i have dreams for this car and finally have the resources to make it happen, i just need some help from some vets out there. thanks for any help and hope to be hearing from somebody soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Did you remove the bleeder valve and poke something in the hole to make sure it wasn't clogged there? Happens occasionally... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 First off, I already posted this in "model specific", but I decided this was a better place for it... so im having an issue with bleeding my brakes today. i just finished putting the car back together after installing a master bushings kit. its been a long time since ive manually bled brakes, because at work im used to using a pressure bleeder. ok so, my issue is this, i started with a bleed on the left rear ( i know i forgot about the proper rotation before reading other threads a while ago) and everything went great LR to RR to LF. but im having troubles getting the right front to bleed...at all. i cant get any fluid to come out, and i cant get any fluid to be pulled in with a tube from the bleeder valve into a bottle with fluid in it. ive made sure there is no air in my master cylinder, and there is no air whatsoever coming out of the other 3 corners of the car. my first thought was to find why the fluid wasnt getting there, so i semi-removed the line that goes from the proportioning valve to the right front, and watched for drips. there is definitly fluid on the caliper side of the valve...i dont really know where to go from here, whether i need to replace the valve or whatnot. btw the car has been sitting for 2 years before i started working on it again recently. the proportioning valve and the 'dual circuit pressure differential switch' are nowhere close to 'new', however, the master cylinder is new and as far as i can tell, has absolutely no leaks in it. please help guys any bit of info will be greatly appreciated. i have dreams for this car and finally have the resources to make it happen, i just need some help from some vets out there. thanks for any help and hope to be hearing from somebody soon! Remove the right side line completely and blow some air through to the caliper end (remove it to so you don't blow crud in to the caliper). I have to ask, just to get a feel for the state-of-the-world-we-live-in: did you write that whole half page above from an iphone or blackberry or whatever? I guess I'm old school when it comes to writing but how can anyone not be embarrassed to send that mess out like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stews280z Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 So ive re-bled the brakes all around, and I have no more air bubbles coming out of the lines. The peddle is still really soft and I can turn the hubs by hand. Im not really too sure what to do from here. And no the lines dont have any gunk buildup in them. Newzed, I did post this from a droid, not sure why I should be "embarassed" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1sickz Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 make sure you have the calipers mounted on the correct side. If the bleed valves are at the bottom you will not be able to get the air out of the system. common mistake people will overlook. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 This site exists to help people, please stop beating up on posters who are having a hard time already! This is a car fixing site, not a phone useage site or an english grammar site. I have not found that the order of bleeding really matters. The front and rear have are totally isolated if the master cylinder is good, so don't worry so much about the order. I got a lot better at bleeding brakes after watching a lot of youtube. With as much trouble as you are having, start by making sure all your bleeders are tightly closed. Spend some time finding clear brake bleeding tubing that fits you bleeder screws well. Cut the tubing longer than you think will be needed and use a bigger bottle like an empty water bottle about half full of clean fluid before you start. Tape to the bottle a piece of coat hangar bent into a hook so you can hook the bottle onto something so it won't tip over. You gotta have someone help you who you are friends with and who is a good listener. Now to get started. Bleed the master cylinder really well by re-circulating the fluid from the bleeder screw back into the brake reservoir with your tubing, one reservoir at a time until no bubbles are present. Now to the wheel cylinders. If your brakes are stock and you have not messed with the caliper installation, this should be easy and shouldn't take a lot of fluid to get the job done (I used to use 2 big bottles, now I use less than a cup). I have not had luck bleeding brakes one-man style because of air leakage around the bleeder screw (greasing the threads doesn't help). Pump 5 times, and crack the screw while your brake man holds pedal down. Don't think that you can just put the rubber tube under the fluid in the bottle and pump away. Repeat as needed communicating with your brake helper to ensure that the bleeder is only opened when the pedal is down, and that the pedal doesn't come back up until the bleeder is re-tightened. If your reservoir goes dry you will have to stat over, so check it often and keep it topped up. The factory knows how to mount your calipers so that they will bleed properly, but if you or someone has messed around and installed aftermarket calipers, the angle could be all messed up. PM me if the calipers are not stock and I'll help you further. Gravity bleeding works, but is messy. Fill reservior, put oil changing pan under wheel cylinder. Crack bleeder screw to create slow drip. Go have a beer. Re-fill reservior before it runs dry. After 3 slow beers, the air should be out of that line. Repeat for each wheel, so budget for a half case of beer. Tighten all the bleeder screws and clean up the big mess you have made. Brakes should have no air. This works best if you have a dirt floor in your garage or if you work under a tree in the yard. Do not try this in California-they will send you straight to jail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Sounds like the master cylinder is not returning to its beginning position. The pushrod from the booster to the MC might be too long. Did you remove the MC at any time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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