Jimmy Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Hi, I ordered a K-Sport coilover kit for my 73` 240z. They offer a kit for our cars, with stock top hats, and thas what I wanted. Followed the instructions, and I may have missunderstod some of it, because the car wont go any low at all up front. On my 225/45-17 wheels, the gap to the stock fender lip is 1 inch (25mm). Now I`m thinking about cuting the front hub apart again, trying to solve the problem, and will add some pictures to explain. How much do I have to leave of the OE shock holder if I weld it to the hub? Can I cut it at 10mm, and do a new weld to the hub, or is that a bad idea (leaving only 10mm of the OE shock holder)? Any reply on this would be much appreciated, thank`s. PS; last picture is compared to a s13 front coil, wich I belive most of the HybridZ members are running. Kind regards Jimmy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 If I'm seeing the pictures right, you welded a threaded insert onto the stock strut tube after cutting it and now the new strut body contacts the cut end of the OE strut tube. I wouldn't cut and reweld anything. I don't think you've got much to gain, and I'd want at least 5cm of tube inside the new insert anyway. It looks like you've still got an inch or so to lower the spring perch before you run out of travel. After that, I suppose you could get rid of the lock ring and lock the spring perch against the black strut lock ring. How much travel do these struts have and where are you in their travel? Are they solid to the bottom or could length be trimmed there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 (edited) If I'm seeing the pictures right, you welded a threaded insert onto the stock strut tube after cutting it and now the new strut body contacts the cut end of the OE strut tube. I wouldn't cut and reweld anything. I don't think you've got much to gain, and I'd want at least 5cm of tube inside the new insert anyway. It looks like you've still got an inch or so to lower the spring perch before you run out of travel. After that, I suppose you could get rid of the lock ring and lock the spring perch against the black strut lock ring. How much travel do these struts have and where are you in their travel? Are they solid to the bottom or could length be trimmed there? Yes, that is the problem, correct. I also understod the instructions that way, and left 55mm, thinking that must be a good thing. If I cut and reweld, I would gaine enough to get the ridehight flush, but then it would only leave 10mm of the OE shock holder inside the threaded sleeve... Yes, I have an inch or so (3cm) lowering the spring. But on the picture the spring is bearly tighten by hand (preloade may be the word?). So if I drop the sping an inch it would be loose, understand? Is that a possibility? Tought that was a bad thing... I have plenty of travel, and dont think that is a problem. The best thing would be to trim the bottom of the shock, yes, but dont think that i possible. Maybe someone knows? I`m thinking s13 would fit great (my friends emusa where 8cm shorter), but K-Sport is not willing so far to take them in exchange for s13/shorter coils/shocks. Edited February 29, 2012 by Jimmy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Lower the spring perch. From what you say you're not running any preload right now anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 No experience here with coil overs but it looks like the OP is assuming that the spring has to be tight between the perches, when, in reality, to get the car lower there will be a gap, with the spring loose, until the spring is loaded with the cars weight. The gap is okay, as I understand things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 No experience here with coil overs but it looks like the OP is assuming that the spring has to be tight between the perches, when, in reality, to get the car lower there will be a gap, with the spring loose, until the spring is loaded with the cars weight. The gap is okay, as I understand things. Yes, I tought it needed to be tight between the perches. If its okay to just "drop the spring", that will help alot. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Yes, just drop the spring. There is no need for preload. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Any lowering spring/traditional (if that's the right word...) coil over kit like the ground control kit has a gap when the car is unweighted. It isn't necissarily ideal but isn't that bad. People who slam their cars just take out all the collars and screw the body in as far as it will go so the spring just rests on the coilover mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monster reem Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 i have the same set up on my 280z you left to much of a gap on your oe strut i did the same amount of space in the back as in the front and i left about half inch if that at the bottom base of my hub. then i welded that small gap from the sleeve to the bottom base of my wheel hub. worked out perfect but i have the front lowered all the way down and it still hits the cut oe strut tub inside the sleeve. so basicly my car is low but it can be lowered about a inch more in the front if it wasnt hitting that inner part of oe strut tube. but works great im happy with this product Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monster reem Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 from the looks of your pictures you should have cut your oe tube way shorter to get the coil to go lower Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 (edited) from the looks of your pictures you should have cut your oe tube way shorter to get the coil to go lower Yes, to bad I followed the instructions. It said leave 50-55mm, and that`s what my welder did. I can do it all over again, but like mentioned above, maybe half an inch is a bit small. What do I know. I paid $$ to have it weld, sending it to sandblasting and painting... Thank`s to all of you for contributing, for now I have dropped the springs (removed pherces), and it`s low enough so that I can fit my flares, and get it painted. Big thank`s! Edited March 4, 2012 by Jimmy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monster reem Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 no problem post pictures of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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