Vintage-TechZ Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 What year/model is the Roadster (yes SHO-Z, I called it a roadster, I have owned one for over 30 years, and that is what we call them here!) I assume it is a 1600 for that money (but who knows). If a 1600, a mod I have always wanted to do was stroke it to 2000 (either with a U20 crank with the snout cut off, or nissan made a 2000 version of the R16 for industrial applications aka forklifts), fit the 46mm su's from a 2000, and have a bit of a sleeper. This is not re-inventing the wheel, it has been done many times, the Aussies seem to do it often. The SR20 is also a great option. My buddies run an NA SR20 from a Sentra in a Chumpcar 67 roadster, and it works really well. It was quite a bit of work, buy my buddy is a master fabricator, and lives for this kind of thing. The SR20 is set in longitudinally, and mated to an L-series 5-speed (more seat of the pants engineering) Another buddy here in Spokane runs one with a VG30, fun car (also built by same guy who put the SR20 in the Chumpcar). Anyway, would like to hear more about the car, and some picture Alex. Obviously I have a very fond spot in my heart for Datsun ROADSTERS (sorry again, SHO-Z). Here is a picture of my car (the black one) with the Chumpcar at the Spokane 24 hour race last summer, the chumpcar's name is Bob, like racecar, same forwards and backwards! (the roadster won by 9 laps after starting with an 11 lap penalty) That black one is a really nice example. I drove my 68'2000 for many years as an errand runner or weekend twisty fun car. It had a newly rebuilt 2.0 in it and I added 240-Z massaged carbs. The factory 5-speed works great. I eventually trimmed out the rear 1/4's to run wide 15x10 Centerline wheels and it cornered like a champion. Later on I installed a VG30et and five speed and life interrupted big-time. Now its up for sale in Missouri if anyone wants to pick up where I left off. I wanted to bring it out to Cali and finish her....but no space here. Anyway...buy that thing and drive the wheels off of it. Mine never gave me any troubles of any kind. Although the soft top latches would come loose on hard transitions...but adjusting them took care of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perfect240z Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 What year/model is the Roadster (yes SHO-Z, I called it a roadster, I have owned one for over 30 years, and that is what we call them here!) I assume it is a 1600 for that money (but who knows). If a 1600, a mod I have always wanted to do was stroke it to 2000 (either with a U20 crank with the snout cut off, or nissan made a 2000 version of the R16 for industrial applications aka forklifts), fit the 46mm su's from a 2000, and have a bit of a sleeper. This is not re-inventing the wheel, it has been done many times, the Aussies seem to do it often. The SR20 is also a great option. My buddies run an NA SR20 from a Sentra in a Chumpcar 67 roadster, and it works really well. It was quite a bit of work, buy my buddy is a master fabricator, and lives for this kind of thing. The SR20 is set in longitudinally, and mated to an L-series 5-speed (more seat of the pants engineering) Another buddy here in Spokane runs one with a VG30, fun car (also built by same guy who put the SR20 in the Chumpcar). Anyway, would like to hear more about the car, and some picture Alex. Obviously I have a very fond spot in my heart for Datsun ROADSTERS (sorry again, SHO-Z). Here is a picture of my car (the black one) with the Chumpcar at the Spokane 24 hour race last summer, the chumpcar's name is Bob, like racecar, same forwards and backwards! (the roadster won by 9 laps after starting with an 11 lap penalty) It's actually a 2000 roadster! I believe its in a estate liquidation but I've been talking to the person running that to get the car. Response is not as quick as I'd like, but it has been owned for 10 years. They sent me a few pics and it looks ok from the pics. Just waiting on a short video of it starting before I make the drive to go and see/test drive it. Im also a little frustrated with the pics showing no plate on the car so I don't know if its current on reg yet. Since I had to jump leaps and hurdles to get my Z registered since its from NM and the last owner never finished the paperwork for that. Anyways I still would like a miata since I don't have to warm it up and drive lol. Instead I would I have to wait a few minutes to get it ready to drive in the early mornings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perfect240z Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 I had a thought about maybe dropping in a L28 but we'll see, if anything I would go SR or VG. But all of that will have to wait till my Z is done. Shes the number one priority to finish lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z Greek Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 I had a thought about maybe dropping in a L28 but we'll see, if anything I would go SR or VG. But all of that will have to wait till my Z is done. Shes the number one priority to finish lol Alex, L28 won't work, too long. U20 that is in is an excellent engine, but VERY expensive to overhaul. For example, timing set (two chains, two tensioners, two guides, four sprockets) will set you back in excess of $1,200. A proper rebuild will cost north of $3,500, but will run great. Gearbox overhaul will cost $1,000+. I LOVE Datsun Roadsters, but go in with your eyes open. Probably go with the Miata if daily driver is what you are after! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perfect240z Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 Yea, I've kind of talked myself out of it already. Parts are hard to find and the whole point ofe getting a miata was so I could sell It later and have money for my triple mikunis since I won't feel bad selling something that isn't rare. Will have to stick with it. His hard to pass up such an awesome Datsun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perfect240z Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 Alex, L28 won't work, too long. U20 that is in is an excellent engine, but VERY expensive to overhaul. For example, timing set (two chains, two tensioners, two guides, four sprockets) will set you back in excess of $1,200. A proper rebuild will cost north of $3,500, but will run great. Gearbox overhaul will cost $1,000+. I LOVE Datsun Roadsters, but go in with your eyes open. Probably go with the Miata if daily driver is what you are after! Well I would only get it to drive ya know, if it needed a rebuild I wouldnt be able to do that for awhile for the motor. And I would try to do it myself first before giving in to professional help lol. But yea, I realize I'd have to do the warm up every morning and after work before I left so it would suck to just not tune the car on and go. Lame. Maybe I'll get one after my Z is done but a already restored one and just do a swap and drive it lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 I certainly miss my '67 R16 Roadster. They are a solid appreciating classic. I bought mine for $5k and sold it for $12K. Perfect ones on eBay are upwards of $20K, now is the time to get one. Pics of my car in 2010 when I sold it: Regards - Yasin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perfect240z Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 The person Ive been talking to is not responding that much, its in a estate financial sale I think, the neighbor is the one im talking too, but since its about 80 miles from my house Im asking for a just a quick vid of the car starting up before I drive there, I haven't received one yet. Might have to forget about this one since I do have the Z. I probably should put my money to finishing her before I go for something that I'll want to eventually spend more money on lol. Maybe I'll go for one that doesn't nee body work and I can just change the power plant rims, suspension and seats and Im good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzzzz Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 The person Ive been talking to is not responding that much, its in a estate financial sale I think, the neighbor is the one im talking too, but since its about 80 miles from my house Im asking for a just a quick vid of the car starting up before I drive there, I haven't received one yet. Might have to forget about this one since I do have the Z. I probably should put my money to finishing her before I go for something that I'll want to eventually spend more money on lol. Maybe I'll go for one that doesn't nee body work and I can just change the power plant rims, suspension and seats and Im good. Is the car listed on Craigs list in Santa Cruz? Saw one listed there for $1900. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perfect240z Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Yup that's the one. Also saw it listed again in salinas. The lady did send me some pics I should add them. If anyone wants a 2000 roadster in the bay try and get it. Supposedly it's non op status that runs...although they said it was purchased 10 years ago for a daughter to restore but she's like 16 from what the lady says and doesn't care about the car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 For a daily driver i would put a late model 16v 240 sx motor in it-not big in a peak horsepower number but lots of torque would make it a good cruiser .I had a 1970 with the 2.0l and 5 speed.I wish I still had that car-the engine was eager to rev and liked to be pushed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 FYI, Here is a follow-up post from CL: This seller does not know anything about roadsters. This roadster is a 1600 not a 2000. It has BONDO from bumper to bumper, and by the way its in Salinas. When it sounds to good to be true it usually is. FWIW... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perfect240z Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 FYI, Here is a follow-up post from CL: FWIW... I should post the pics and the entire text sometime tomorrow, burgandy color Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArchetypeDatsun Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Alex, L28 won't work, too long. U20 that is in is an excellent engine, but VERY expensive to overhaul. For example, timing set (two chains, two tensioners, two guides, four sprockets) will set you back in excess of $1,200. A proper rebuild will cost north of $3,500, but will run great. Gearbox overhaul will cost $1,000+. I LOVE Datsun Roadsters, but go in with your eyes open. Probably go with the Miata if daily driver is what you are after! There is a Roadster out there with an L28 I'll try to get some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage-TechZ Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 There is a Roadster out there with an L28 I'll try to get some pics. There may be, but placing the block that much forward of the front crossmember or axle-point is a bad execution for a well handling car. The main reason I went with a v6 turbo was to be one cylinder length behind that of the U20, therefore placing the block actually behind the crossmember. Which equates to better or improved center of gravity,weight ratio as well as more HP and Tq. An L-series 6 would make that car push like a plow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 (edited) There may be, but placing the block that much forward of the front crossmember or axle-point is a bad execution for a well handling car. The main reason I went with a v6 turbo was to be one cylinder length behind that of the U20, therefore placing the block actually behind the crossmember. Which equates to better or improved center of gravity,weight ratio as well as more HP and Tq. An L-series 6 would make that car push like a plow. Unless you set it up correctly... People often mistakenly equate weight distribution to the understeer/oversteer propensity of the car. The suspension can be tuned to match the weight distribution, among (many) other things. You can take a 70/30 car and make it have steady state oversteer. Weight distribution/location does affect the rotational inertia of the vehicle. The more centered the mass, the easier it is to change it's velocity. This is good for quickness (anything involving changes of direction) but also has a destabilizing effect (less resistance to turning, i.e. less time to react, harder to correct, more sensitive to inputs, etc.). The other point is that a front heavy, rear-drive car will be at a disadvantage regarding traction on acceleration. There are myriad things that affect vehicle dynamics and you can't chalk up a car's handling to just one of them, e.g. weight distribution. Veering back on topic, looks like the owner has already dropped down to $1250 upon realizing that it's a 1600 and not in the best of shape... Edited March 15, 2012 by Leon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage-TechZ Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Unless you set it up correctly... People often mistakenly equate weight distribution to the understeer/oversteer propensity of the car. The suspension can be tuned to match the weight distribution, among (many) other things. You can take a 70/30 car and make it have steady state oversteer. Weight distribution/location does affect the rotational inertia of the vehicle. The more centered the mass, the easier it is to change it's velocity. This is good for quickness (anything involving changes of direction) but also has a destabilizing effect (less resistance to turning, i.e. less time to react, harder to correct, more sensitive to inputs, etc.). The other point is that a front heavy, rear-drive car will be at a disadvantage regarding traction on acceleration. There are myriad things that affect vehicle dynamics and you can't chalk up a car's handling to just one of them, e.g. weight distribution. Veering back on topic, looks like the owner has already dropped down to $1250 upon realizing that it's a 1600 and not in the best of shape... I can see your angle here Leon.......even a Tractor can be made to impress. But why go there when such an optimized equation is in front of you ? I began choosing battles worth fighting/working out, to keep life fun. A challenge for challenge sake is a waste imho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 I can see your angle here Leon.......even a Tractor can be made to impress. But why go there when such an optimized equation is in front of you ? I began choosing battles worth fighting/working out, to keep life fun. A challenge for challenge sake is a waste imho. What I'm saying is that you shouldn't discount an idea, a design, simply because it doesn't have "perfect" 50-50 weight distribution. This is an automotive fallacy, 50-50 isn't necessarily perfect. What's "optimized" for you may not be optimal for someone else and their design intent. Like I said, one single thing (like weight distribution) isn't the bane, nor is is the the sole key of success in vehicle design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage-TechZ Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 What I'm saying is that you shouldn't discount an idea, a design, simply because it doesn't have "perfect" 50-50 weight distribution. This is an automotive fallacy, 50-50 isn't necessarily perfect. What's "optimized" for you may not be optimal for someone else and their design intent. Like I said, one single thing (like weight distribution) isn't the bane, nor is is the the sole key of success in vehicle design. That is shedding light where there is no darkness really..................... To your point then.....what would be the optimized purpose of stuffing a inline six into a roadster ? Bare in mind, while I did indeed go another route with the v6...my goal was to do ANYTHING but go backward in handling,acceleration,traction and daily drive-ability. I didn't even consider a LONGER motor because I wanted to spend the time elsewhere and not chasing good handling characteristics that would otherwise be gone. Please read this as if we're having a beer....I'm not trying to challenge you or make your statements discredited. Just see your point better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 That is shedding light where there is no darkness really..................... To your point then.....what would be the optimized purpose of stuffing a inline six into a roadster ? Bare in mind, while I did indeed go another route with the v6...my goal was to do ANYTHING but go backward in handling,acceleration,traction and daily drive-ability. I didn't even consider a LONGER motor because I wanted to spend the time elsewhere and not chasing good handling characteristics that would otherwise be gone. Please read this as if we're having a beer....I'm not trying to challenge you or make your statements discredited. Just see your point better. I don't drink, so you'll be sipping on a beer whilst I pop open a fresh, cool bottle of Martinelli's apple cider. There is something you need to understand, however. Like I said earlier, one thing like weight distribution (that LONGER engine under the hood) is not going to kill a design, nor is it going to make it a winner. Staying true to the point, just because you put in a V6 into the Roadster absolutely does not automatically dictate that you've improved any of those attributes you mentioned. The answer to this question is simple: To your point then.....what would be the optimized purpose of stuffing a inline six into a roadster ? Because I (or you, or he, or anyone) want to. There is no "optimized purpose" but rather there is a design intent and the car is modified in order to fit within your specifications. I'll repeat, 50-50 is not "perfect" weight distribution, because there is no such thing! You may still be skeptical, but Formula 1 cars and many other race-cars do not have 50-50 weight distribution. They are rear-biased, some more than others. Are you going to walk up to an F1 engineer and tell them that their weight distribution is not perfect? The chassis can be tuned to your liking, and there is a compromise to every decision. A well set-up 70/30 car can outhandle a poorly set 50-50 car. It's all in the chassis tuning. Rotational inertia and traction to the rear wheels are the extra pieces to this topic, the merits of which I brought up in a previous post. You want an autoX car to be able to dance around cones because of low inertia, but do you want a Bonneville LSR car getting squirrely or spinning at 200mph because of low rotational inertia? Like I said, it all depends on your design intent. What's perfect for one is crap to another! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.