vega Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Those of you with a long nose r200 diff, at what tq would you say each of these parts break if the said part is in good condition, (good, better, best)? 1. 280z manual half shaft 2. 280z manual 27 spline stub axle 3. z31t cv conversion cv shafts? For those out of the know, I am building a 78 280z manual car with a 333ci sbc and 700r4 with engine breaking, full manual shift, auto shift, and with constant line pressure getting rid of the tv cables. I can modify the tune of the engine and parts I am purchasing based on the limit of tq on the drive train. The car will be on 245/50r16 firehawk wide-oval indy 500 320aa tires. These are 10/32nd very street-able tires probably good for about 20k miles without abuse 10k miles with abuse. I will be in the 500hp range but where I make the power in the rpm range can and will affect the level load on these parts. Any information on this would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Not saying you didn't read it but lot's of info in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vega Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 (edited) I did read that. I have been doing a lot of reading on the subject. There is one post, ONE, that says anything about personal experience with breaking parts in relation to real numbers, ie tq/hp. I tried contacting the member and something is up with his inbox he can't receive new messages for some reason. Edited April 9, 2012 by vega Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Realistically, there is not way to quantify the torque value at which certain parts will break in the R200 diff. The probability of failure of the U-Joint halfshaft or the 27 spline stub axle are about equal. When using the Z31T CV half shafts and 27 spline stub axles, the stub axle will be the point of failure. I followed this several years ago and worked with the gentleman at Modern Motorsports to come up with a much stronger design for the stub axles. I must have been one of his first customers for those BEEFY stub axles which are now in my 240Z with Z31T CV halfshafts and 3.7 CLSD R200. Want to upgrade the R200 to OS Giken CLSD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 He is right saying that about the stubs being the weaker link... Our zebra race car and jnjdragracings car have both done huge wheel stands on turbo axles and stock stubs.... And held up well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 One more thing to keep in mind is the angle of the half shafts. The U-jointed ones stand up well if there is not much angle, like in a factory ride height. Lowered, you'd better change to CVs. I took my car to the strip for 3 years with 400ft-lbs and stock open R200, stock half shafts and original stubs and never broke anything. But I didn't have the best traction off the line although I occasionally pulled 1.9 second 60' times with BFG drag radials. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vega Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 (edited) Thanks you guys that is what I was looking for. Btw I will not be on autocross tires or slicks of any kind. If I do get to that point I will have custom rims made from diamond racing and do the entire conversion with the 4130 axles. I will be at stock ride height but with an inch or so taller tire than stock. This is a track day car that is driven on the street so I don't plan on hooking that much. -------- I have read a little bit on welding the diff. I have heard that the weld can break and cause diff failure. Although I have also heard that welding the diff in these r200s alleviates a lot of issues (pin etc). Thoughts? gearheadstik You did not say what year or model stub axles you were using. Edited April 10, 2012 by vega Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 (edited) 280z stubs, MM welded adapters,z31 axles, welded diff..... Edited April 10, 2012 by gearheadstik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vega Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 (edited) 280z stubs, MM welded adapters,z31 axles, welded diff..... Any issues with the welded diff thus far? Also did you end up using shorter z31t axles or did you flip it around? Edited April 10, 2012 by vega Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vega Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Any other drag racers out there that wish to testify? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 I ran a stock 3.7 welded diff and shafts , for 3 years and ran 10.00 more times than i can remember with over 500 hpatw and lots lb torque ,, dont know how many tail shafts i smashed , but the diff and shafts never gave me any truble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Any issues with the welded diff thus far? Also did you end up using shorter z31t axles or did you flip it around? Flipped, no issues... broke a bucket full of spicer u joints before making the swap... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vega Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Flipped, no issues... broke a bucket full of spicer u joints before making the swap... Were they the greaseable u-joints? Those are hollow and not as strong as the one with out the zirk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 I'm also contemplating welding an open 3.7 R200 (it's a spare). The application is drag racing and "street driving" - that is, to and from the drag strip under the car's own power, and maybe to a car-show 3-4 times every summer. Since I can't weld, I'm taking the project to a shop. The plan is to remove the differential from the case, thoroughly degrease/clean, have it welded, and then reinstall. Thoughts? Advice? Any more experiences with welded differentials "on the street"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vega Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 Dude... start a new thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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