Jump to content
HybridZ

What stall to use


skirkland1980

Recommended Posts

Hello. I just finished installing a 700r4 in my 1983 280zx turbo. I went with a 2000rpm stall converter. It feels sluggish now. I know the 700r4 is about twice the weight as the jatco L3n71b that was in there. My question is, would more stall help. Anyone running a similar setup? I'm estimating about 300hp at the flywheel(s)(it has 2 flywheels now lol) The engine has a custom intake with a t3t4 turbo and .82 hot side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

define "It has 2 flywheels now lol" You didn't bolt the converter to the flywheel did you?

 

What diameter converter are you running? A good 9" or smaller will really wake it up. What are you using the car for? What cam are you running and where does the power come on with your setup? What RPM's are you running, and what do you want your top speed to be?

 

All of the above are factors in converter selection. With the above it's possible to suggest possible diameter, stall and STR for a converter.

 

-Robert

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The converter is a b&m part # 70420 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70420/. It has the stock flywheel/flexplate for the L28 then and adapter to bolt a SBC flexplate to that. I drive the car often on the street and drag race occasionally. The engine internals are all stock. The only things I've changed that should effect powerband are the intake and turbo. Boost peaks around 3500rpm. Thanks for the help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm going to say the stall is too low for your application. V8 converters measured stall based on an engine that is approx 300hp street build, in other words a torquey 300hp. From the converter guys I have talked to this is a very subjective measurement. I don't know your level of converter knowledge, so I'll explain, forgive me if this is basics for you. If you have a 2000 rpm stall converter and put it behind a 150 hp engine and a 400 hp engine then the engine will stall out at different rpm's The purpose of the stall on a converter is to allow the engine to rev so it can get in it's powerband. 2000 stall is considered a low stall for V8's Your 6cyl turbo sounds like it could use a higher stall.

 

If you can put the car in drive and floor it where do the rpm's level off at? If you are below 2000 stall then you have less torque at low rpm's than that converter was tested with. Use this offset when ordering your next converter. For example if your engine stalls out at 1600 rpm you now have a 400 rpm offset. If your turbo spools at 2500 rpm then I would go with a 2500+400=2900 rpm stall converter.

 

If you end up buying a new converter, you might check out edge converters. Fill out one of their forms with your vehicles info and they will make suggestions. I am currently running one of their converters in a 94 impala, and I love the responsiveness, but don't really care for how loose it is on the low end. The folks at edge can help you through the decision making process.

 

Hope that helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I've been trying to decide between 3000 or 4000 stall. Would 4k be too much? It'd be nice to be able to build some boost before launching. With the old trans I was able to build 1psi. Now 0psi. At least with TC lockup I can maintain my fuel economy on the highway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DO a 4K. You won't regret it. It will be an absolute animal,and if you have lockup, whats the big deal? Don't go cheap though. Go with a precision industries or yank converter. Expensive yes, but they each give you a free re-stall, and they won't come apart and damage your trans. Even one with a documented fresh re-stall would be good. The PI vigilantes run a bit loose, as do the yank PT's. The yank SS's are about spot on.

 

For reference my vig 4000 would actually flash to 4400. MAN would that thing get you moving.

 

HOWEVER

 

4K might be a bit much on a turbo car. SO, you might be happier in the 3K range. IDK, that's just LS1 fbody knowledge dripping out.

Edited by SUNNY Z
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you care about street manners go with the 3k. Also just as important is to specify the STR (Stall Torque Ratio).

 

Basically Stall is the low end efficiency. Stall Torque Ratio is the ratio of input torque to output torque, and is mostly noticeable in higher rpms as efficiency is reduced up there. An all out drag car with a high stall high STR converter is not drivable or safe on the street. My analogy above is not perfect, so take it with a grain of salt. My suggestion is to read up and of course call Edge, PI, and or Yank and ask them so you can know what to expect and order the right converter the first time. Just bear in mind when getting into the world of slush box racing, it's even more important to match engine power band, to the converter, to the trans gearing, to the rear end gearing.

 

PI and Yank converters are very good, but only necessary if you are running in excess of 400 or higher HP. The Edge converters are cheaper because they run a lighter housing, so if you don't have monster hp/torque it may be a better choice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The converter is a b&m part # 70420 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70420/. It has the stock flywheel/flexplate for the L28 then and adapter to bolt a SBC flexplate to that. I drive the car often on the street and drag race occasionally. The engine internals are all stock. The only things I've changed that should effect powerband are the intake and turbo. Boost peaks around 3500rpm. Thanks for the help.

 

Where does your boost start to come on? IE: positive pressure rpm

 

I run a stalled Jatco and I had mine stalled to where positive pressure starts then with a transbrake it builds all the boost I need get a boosted launch. What kind of times are you running?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I'm upgrading the stall sooner than I thought. My flexplate is broken. I got a 10" converter from summit and I'm returning it because the craftsmanship on this converter is very poor. I'm going to try the hughes. Here is a video of the broken flexplate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I figured out why my flexplate broke. It's because the transmission is slightly off-center. I'll be picking up some offset dowel pins from Summit tomorrow. I also found that there are some differences in flexplate offset so I also returned the summit flexplate for a pioneer flexplate which is a much better fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Mine needs to 3/4 because of the thickness of the center hub. I ordered a new piece of aluminum in early july and took it to my cnc guy and finally got tired of waiting. I picked up my stuff and bought a giant band saw and borrowed a drill press and built a new one. Here it is. The car should be done very soon now.

post-8737-082981900 1345779805_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...