RebekahsZ Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Doing the JMortensen axle swap / CV rebuild. #1 how the heck do I get that stinkin' inner CV off the shaft??? I have been whacking it with a brass drift until I'm afraid I'm gonna snap a tooth off of the big star fruit-shaped thing-em-a-bob in the center of the CV. The "sticky" references using a pipe - can anybody describe that technique in detail? Or tell me where he heck I'm supposed to whack this thing to get it to come off! Maybe I'm just not whacking it hard enough - should I worry about breaking things? #2 take a look at the photos I've added. Does the wear on this first outer CV look acceptable? Should I rotate the star-fruit thing-em-a-bob 180 degrees to get eliminate the wear pattern that the balls ride on? I only ripped off 2 fingernails getting the old boots off and the new boots on the new shafts - that is pretty good for me. I have a goal of getting to the strip with R200 CLSD with slicks on May 17th. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Using that 1st pic as a reference, get yourself a length of pipe longer than the 1/2 shaft and insert the shaft into the pipe and slam the pipe down on the cement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 You'd have to be the hulk to damage the gear. I haven't taken one apart, but it shouldn't be that hard. I might try hitting it on once or twice to jar it loose. Perhaps the circlip is in a crazy bind. If you get a pipe a little larger than the shaft, you can put slide the pipe over the shaft, lock it down, and yank on the shaft itself to pop the end off. An even force on the gear should make it come off easier than hitting it off center. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
24OZ Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 (edited) In your pic 1 have the shaft in the vice vertically with the inner cv pointing down. Use a dead blow hammer and strike the gear as close to the shaft as possible while holding the inner cv in your other hand to support it as it comes off. Edited April 23, 2012 by 24OZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
24OZ Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 I found this video helpful and gives you n idea where you should be striking the carrier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 This might help: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/105657-300-zx-turbo-cv-shaft-disassembly-and-reassembly/page__p__988589__hl__%2Bcv+%2Bdisassembly__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=988589 How do the balls look? If they aren't pitted you're probably OK. It's tough to tell if that is pitting or just spots on the last pic of the inner race. Does it feel smooth when you articulate the joint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 23, 2012 Author Share Posted April 23, 2012 My balls are great, wait- you mean the car - for a minute I thought this was a dating site. The balls look fine. The joints felt smooth until I took them out of their wear pattern. I appreciate the help. That video makes it look so easy! I've been beating the hell out of it. Gonna buy the exact dead blow hammer one of you showed and I'll try not to worry about breaking parts- I'm in the same spot either way I guess. For the pipe method, do you worry about the pipe diameter and what part of the joint it rests on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 For the pipe method, do you worry about the pipe diameter and what part of the joint it rests on? The pipe needs to rest against the ball race. If you get a piece of pipe the shaft bar just barely slides into, it will center itself as you smack the end of the pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 (edited) I had no luck using a dead blow hammer but the pipe method worked perfect. I used 1-1/4 galvanized pipe and slammed it against a block of wood to prevent damaging the shaft when it let loose from the joint. Edited April 23, 2012 by rossman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 24, 2012 Author Share Posted April 24, 2012 I was wondering about damaging the splines. I'll start looking for a piece of 1-1/4 galvanized pipe. Just got home from home depot with a new deadblow hammer. It will likely be Saturday before I can post results-VERY busy week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 24, 2012 Author Share Posted April 24, 2012 I couldn't go to sleep without giving it one more try with the info you guys have given me. Mounted axle in vise with inner stub hanging down. Grabbed the stub with left hand and pulled down while whacking (the CV) with a soft rubber dead blow hammer (my old one). I was not careful or timid. Came right off in a few smacks. I think two things were key: positioning the axle so that I could put a constant pull against the snap ring, and not being afraid of breaking anything. You guys gave me the confidence to be as rough as I needed to be. I didn't worry about breaking anything because of the video and your reassurances. Went ahead and did second axle - the whole dissassembly took me like 20 minutes (now that I know what I'm doing)! Thanks so much for this forum and all who contribute. Now to go to the JMortensen thread on dissassembling the inner CV! And, I can return the new $16 dead blow hammer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
24OZ Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Good to hear you got it off, I don't think you'd have been able to sleep otherwise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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