NewZed Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 Don't forget to install the countershaft bearing shim in the front cover. I think that the cover gasket is part of the countershaft bearing clearance (or preload) calculation so good idea to get one and use it I think, than use just RTV. Did you install a new main shaft seal in the cover? Easy to do and worth the insurance. Put some RTV on the clutch pivot ball stud threads. They can leak too. Along with the cover bolt threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted June 1, 2012 Author Share Posted June 1, 2012 Ya I made sure to put the shim in a zip lock, put in a safe place so it won't break. I understand that they're very hard to come by these days. I believe the gasket set includes both the oil seals and the front cover gasket, I will be replacing all 3 of them. Thanks for the tip on sealing the threads! I was thinking while I have it open I would file out the holes in the adapter plate a bit to promote the movement of trans fluid. Is that a bad idea? I'm merely thinking of just making them a tad bigger and smoothing them out a bit. Also is acetone ok to clean the internals? And lastly, should I be concerned about how those rear gears are making noise? Seems to me like once there's tranny fluid in there it should be fine, but it seems like they're not happy at the moment... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 I wouldn't do anymore spinning until you have some lubricant in there. Acetone works but use it outdoors. Personally, if I were to clean the inside of a transmission case, I'd just use rubbing alcohol from a spray bottle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 If you file the adapter plate you should remove the gears, shafts, and bearings first to prevent getting metal ships in them that you cannot clean out later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 No reason to have bigger fluid transfer holes. It just sloshes back and forth from accelerating and breaking anyway. There's one tiny metal trough that hangs from the adapter plate that actually directs fluid to another spot. Make sure it's not bent when you bolt everything back together. There's not much you can clean either without taking it all apart. You can't reach the synchro bearing surfaces or the ball bearings in the adapter plate. The gears don't need to be clean. The odds of getting grit in to places it will do damage are higher the more you try to get it clean. The bearings are designed to allow debris to clear out as the fluid washes past. Best to just take care putting it together, put new fluid in and drive it. My current transmission is a junk yard unit and it took a few thousand miles to start working correctly after sitting wherever it had been sitting. Pretty sure it had some internal surface rust on the synchro cones or some sort of varnish that took time to wear off. You won't really know what you have until it's in the car and you run it through the gears. I ended up using 25% ATF with 75% Swepco 201 gear lube. If the transmission is in decent shape the MT-90 should work fine, but if not, the Swepco might help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted June 2, 2012 Author Share Posted June 2, 2012 Thanks for all the tips guys! I guess I will finish cleaning the housings and then get rid of a little surface rust in a couple places internally, install new gaskets, put it all back together, and fill it with fluid. I'm really glad that this thing all worked out, it's really quite nice to not really have to worry about it anymore. Hopefully this trans will work great once I get the car all running. Thanks again everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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