NewZed Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 Try disconnecting that second connection on the coil negative. Use just the output from the ICM. I'm not sure what that other wire would be for. That's a good point. ON a 280Z that might be the wire to the tach and ECU. On a 240 it might be keeping the coil primary circuit closed, stopping the coil from discharging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suparman Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 Coil neg to C terminal, green w/white and black w/white to B terminal, black w/white and suppressor to coil pos. Ground wire added to module. When I use the jumper wire I get spark from coil neg with key on and terminal C terminal and during cranking same result. I connected the jumper to W terminal and G terminal but no spark with key on or during cranking shouldn't W or G spark when cranking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suparman Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 Should I put the second pickup back in the distributor and wire the pickups inline? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 The second pickup works separately from the first one. It's just 6 degrees advanced. It would have been controlled by the stock ignition module. Since you've measure 717 ohms at the wire, that pickup coil looks good, most likely, you don't want them in-line. You get spark from coil negative, which is the coil primary charging up, but do you get spark from the main spark distribution wire that feeds that distributor cap? You should get a spark at both. I haven't seen a picture with the main coil wire connected. And did you disconnect the second wire from coil negative like Six Shooter suggested? The circuit from the coil negative to ground has to be broken or the coil will not discharge through the main center terminal. W and G just take the tiny pulse from the pickup coil and use it to make and break the circuit from the coil negative wire to ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suparman Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 I have spark on coil wire.... I took the wires and tested them separate from the plugs and I have super weak spark. So I guess the timing is off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 Timing won't affect the intensity of the spark, just when it sparks. Have you tried using a jumper to ground the coil to check for spark intensity? Keep in mind, the spark happens when you disconnect the negative trigger. This will determine if the coil is at fault or something farther upstream. Also you haven't verified if you disconnected that second wire from the coil negative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suparman Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 Sorry, second wire is disconnected. I put an alligator clip wire on the negative terminal it would spark but not a strong spark, and only if rubbed against a ground it would not leap like the coil plug did. The lead from the neg. terminal was more of a sizzle than anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 Just to clarify, the spark you are looking for is from the coil output, not the negative terminal itself, that one should be a small spark, if any when using a jumper lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suparman Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 Oh The coil out put is strong at the coil and the distributor side of the wire. It was just almost non existent spark at the plug side of the wiresand nonexistent to the point of when the spark plugs are connected there is no spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 (edited) Are you testing with the rotor pointed at that cylinder's plug wire terminal? Maybe you have an issue with the cap, rotor or wire(s). Edited May 19, 2012 by Six_Shooter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suparman Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 Testing the wires as the motor cranks over. So my logic would say that as the rotor hits the terminal on the cap for each cylinder. Is there a way I am not aware of? I have never had so many issues on anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suparman Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 Cylinders 2 and 4 show contact on the cap but the others don't look like anything other then brand new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suparman Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 cylinders 1 and 5 and 4 are not getting spark 2,3, and 6 are getting good strong spark. I purchased new cap rotor and plug wires and now half of my cylinders are getting good strong spark the other half still are not sparking.... cant figure it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 (edited) At least the coil and module are working. Did you buy a 1975 cap or a 1973 cap? Apparently, according to the O'Reilly Auto web site, they're not the same. I don't know how they're different, just that they sell two different parts for those years. You need a 1975 cap. Probably a 75 rotor too. Click on the Compatibility tab - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/IDI1/100121/02783.oap?year=1975&make=Nissan&model=280Z&vi=1209204&ck=Search_distributor+cap+%26+rotor_1209204_-1&keyword=distributor+cap+%26+rotor Almost there. Edited May 20, 2012 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suparman Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 (edited) Yes the cap and rotor are for a 75. What is the likely hood that the reluctor wheel is bad? or the pickup is not reading right. That seems like the next likely scenario. I believe the original issue was the rotor was from auto zone and the cap from Napa there were distinct visual differences between the two caps. Maybe different manufacture standards between Napa parts and the duralast parts. Edited May 20, 2012 by suparman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Set the gap between reluctor wheel and pickup coil according to the FSM, Electrical section. It's important. An easy adjustment. Maybe the triggering voltage is too weak for a few of the reluctor wheel teeth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suparman Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 So after setting the gap for the reluctor wheel to .2 it runs.... Thank you every one for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Congrats. Hard to believe after the long trail. It's always the little things that get you. Now that it's working right, you should probably make sure that the vacuum advance breaker plate isn't rusted frozen, just to get full benefits. The vacuum advance can will eventually break the plastic bearing holder if it's stuck too hard. Might have to take it apart, remove some rust and relube it. And don't forget to open up the gap on your plugs to take advantage of the stronger spark. .040" is about the common standard for electronic ignition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suparman Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 Will do thanks so much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suparman Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 New issue's...12.4 at battery, 12.2 at coil pos, 12.2 coil neg, 0 on b,g,w and c has 12.2 if I reverse long black and white with short black and white I get 8.4 coil pos, 1.9 coil neg, 10.3 on w and g,10.8 on b, and 1.8 on c.... the coil has become hot enough to burn me while running these test's. No spark at all from the coil wire no matter what I do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.