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Red Zed Build Thread


MikeyM

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I've hooked up a few more bits and pieces and the new airdam, I'll paint it to match the car when I have more time.

 

IMG_20121028_164450.jpg

 

Oh, and it bloody runs!

 

th_VID_20121028_160034.jpg

 

Andre and Sam from STM popped round and reflashed the ECU and we're all go. It sounds brilliant with just the headers.

 

So this is what's left to do this week:

 

* Get exhaust made - check with TTT when the can fit it in

* Fit radiator - It's at the radiator shop at the moment.

* Fix front brakes

* Put front bumper and indicators on

* Get wheel spacers to clear brakes - At machine shop, hopefully pick up tomorrow

* Fix Leak in fuel filler neck

 

I suspect the front brakes need a residual pressure valve. There doesn't seem to be any air in there, and if I pinch off the softlines the pedal is hard.

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I've hooked up a few more bits and pieces and the new airdam, I'll paint it to match the car when I have more time.

 

IMG_20121028_164450.jpg

 

Oh, and it runs!

 

th_VID_20121028_160034.jpg

 

Andre and Sam from STM popped round and reflashed the ECU and we're all go. It sounds brilliant with just the headers.

 

So this is what's left to do this week:

 

* Get exhaust made - check with TTT when the can fit it in

* Fit radiator - It's at the radiator shop at the moment.

* Fix front brakes

* Put front bumper and indicators on

* Get wheel spacers to clear brakes - At machine shop, hopefully pick up tomorrow

* Fix Leak in fuel filler neck

 

I suspect the front brakes need a residual pressure valve. There doesn't seem to be any air in there, and if I pinch off the softlines the pedal is hard.

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Last night I put the radiator in. I got the outlets moved and a fan put in by Auto Radiators on Nixon St, can't recommend them highly enough they did a great job.

 

IMG_20121029_220346.jpg

 

I was gonna use a new aluminum one but really happy with this; suits the car better.

 

The spacers are turning out to be a massive pain in the arse. A miscommunication ment they put a locator ring around the original one without taking out the id to fit over my hub. I did explain this was required but it was lost in translation.

 

IMG_20121029_174914.jpg

 

I'm trailering the car to TTT first thing tomorrow morning to get the exhaust made so the spacers have to be finished today.

 

I also fixed my brakes after swapping the calipers around so the bleed nipples were at the top. And wired up the alternator.

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TTT did a great job on the exhaust, pleased I got them to do it instead of trying to do it myself. It's tucked up there good and proper, no knocks.

 

IMG_20121031_162326.jpg

 

So I very gingerly drove it home, took all the back streets and scraped on about 8 speed bumps, probably should've just taken main streets. ha ha

 

I got beached on the gearbox coming into the garage, so I really need to jack it up a bit. It is really low at the moment, the sump is about 3cm off the ground.

 

I've sussed the bonnet latch and radiator fan, fixed all the guard clearance issues and got the airdam back on.

 

I tried to take it for an actual burn last night, the ECU was switching to failsafe mode if I try to thrash it, I'd get into the top of second gear before it'd conk out. Then I'd have to switch the car off for a minute or so.

 

I didn't get to check the codes but I suspect a bad earth or bad connection to the throttle body. Hopefully get it sorted on Saturday. Woo hoo!

 

IMG_20121101_071248.jpg

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Nice work, its always interesting having a look at custom fabricated parts.

 

 

I didn't think a VQ swap was possible in a RHD due to the steering arm, I never thought of doing what you have done. Seems really simple too, does it still work nice and smoothly even with the shaper angles in it.

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Nice work, its always interesting having a look at custom fabricated parts.

 

 

I didn't think a VQ swap was possible in a RHD due to the steering arm, I never thought of doing what you have done. Seems really simple too, does it still work nice and smoothly even with the shaper angles in it.

The angles are actually pretty tame, seems to work sweet.

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I made it to Leadfoot Ranch and back and met Rod Millen. We got to drive the driveway, the whole thing was fantastic.

 

8152997322_52331b49e3_c.jpg

by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr

 

8152969547_69a3ddf281_c.jpg

by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr

 

8152970765_682f72b9eb_c.jpg

by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr

 

This is what the engine bay is currently looking like

 

IMG_20121104_162901.jpg

 

 

Inspection light:

 

IMG_20121104_162836.jpg

 

All and all I'm stoked with how the car ran.

 

There was an issue with putting my foot right down, the ECU would go into failsafe mode when the pedal goes past 100%. That was easily fixed by winding out the pedal stop.

 

The engine stumbles a little bit sometimes when on the gas, for now I think that's an earthing problem. Will tidy up the earths a little and see if it helps.

 

And finally, the fuel pressure loses it occasionally and starts fluttering and bouncing like a tap hammering. Might need some dampening?

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  • 2 weeks later...
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I've been doing some bits and bobs, mostly boring shit like uni-joints, window regulators.

I've closed in the tunnel, makes such a difference:

IMG_20121205_070631.jpg


I've finally gotten to a point where I can try and sort out the poor running. It stutters when you floor it sometimes. It seems to have gotten worse recently.

It seems to be related to throttle position, the engine will sometimes stutter a bit when I put my foot down. Sometimes it'll die completely unless I release the pedal a little bit, at which point it picks up again.

I'm pretty sure the ECU & throttle body are still operating when this happens because the induction noises seem to match the pedal position - even thou the engine isn't firing. The engine is fly-by-wire BTW.

I haven't worked out if it's fuel or spark that's missing, I'll try and suss that tonight.

I've had some nagging doubts about some of my wiring so last night I:

  • Moved the ECU and O2 heater power supply off the fuel pump relay and on to their own relays.
  • Added a fat new ground cable to the ECU.
  • Cleaned up all the surfaces for the other grounds.
  • Used fatter wires for the fuel pump.

There are no unusual codes being thrown.

Remaining doubts are:

  • The Fuel pump relay still gets pretty hot
  • Wondering if the ECU ground should be seperated from the other grounds that are there?
  • The pedal sensor wiring is a bit iffy.

This is the fusebox I'm using:

IMG_20121205_070721.jpg

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SUSSED.

I pulled the baffle out and drilled a 10mm hole in three of the sides. I also slid clear tube over each of the solder joints on the wiring.

It now pulls like a mo fo. I'm so friken stoked. I'm pretty sure It was because of the wiring shorting, not the holes. The relays don't get nearly as hot as they were before. I might put an undrilled baffle in there later to test.

IMG_20121208_105937.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mikey - Great job! I'm glad you figured out your hesitation. I take it it was a fuel starvation/wiring fault issue? That is the pink baffle you were talking about, in the tank? I guess the VQ is more thirsty than a Pulsar 4 banger.

 

Did you ever post that bracket for the R32 brakes?  I wonder if it would work for the Z32 brakes?

Edited by Pharaohabq
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