Pharaohabq Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 Clever cookies will realise they're similar in looks to the Mckinney mounts but I've not taken any measurements from their mounts, it's all been designed by me. So not a lot of actual work. But that's gonna change this weekend surely What everyone forgets that BUSINESS people have overhead to cover We need almost 30 k a month to cover it before I make a dallor. if you build it in your garage you need ZERO dallor to make a buck. Just our Insurance on parts cost over 5k a month. So yes you can make them cheaper.[/quote/ a design or process paient can cost up-works of 10K and the cost thousand to enforce. So Fast-Datsun, Does this mean that so long as he's not selling these productionwise to directly compete with you that it's no big deal that he built his own, or if he releases his version of the design files to the public? I realize that yours is not patented either, and that were anyone to directly copy your design that you may be able to build a case against them. But in this case he's designed a similar product using similar design features, which is his to do as he likes with it. Just as would be, if anyone were to design their own engine mounts in any other configuration. I realize that you have a business, and that it's costly to run that business. But affordability of products, or the lack thereof, will promote creation of new products by others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyM Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 I've always planned to share the drawings with anyone who wants them, so here you go. These are the three parts which make up the mounts themselves, to make one mount you need to cut 2 x mount_upright.dxf mount_back.dxf mount_base.dxf mount_upright.dxf This will give you one of these: mount_back will then need a bend put in it to follow the contour of mount_upright and then cut the excess off. These drawings are slightly different from the ones I used; they include last-minute changes I did with the angle grinder. I'd also consider moving mount_base closer to mount_upright in the future, this would allow you to keep the steering shaft where it is if you ran the factory exhaust manifolds. I also have a diagram with measurements needed to make the new crossmember. The isolators I used are from a '70s Ford Cortina I think. They're 70mm x 35mm. I've lost the part number but this one is similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zman0690 Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 I think its awesome that you fabricated these up yourself. It gives all us DIYers out there something to look up to. It obviously took a lot of time and effort to get all these measurements and put these files together, not to mention welding them all up to look as nice as they do. Very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zman0690 Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 As far as mounts go Energy suspension offers a great selection of Polyurethane universal mounts that I am going to use which can be found here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyM Posted August 27, 2012 Author Share Posted August 27, 2012 I've been pretty slack on the updates, but things have been happening! Took guard off and fixed some rust. ^^ I know it looks like my car is being held up by a pile of old bricks, but I assure you it's not. Chipping away... Modified headers to clear firewall/framerail. I painted all my suspension stuff with 2 pack Chris did some more weldy weld weld weld. I relocated the fuel reg. I put new brakes together They're R32 GTR brakes, the rotors are brand new curved-vane Wilwood rotors 296mm x 32mm which I got for a very reasonable price from Pedey. Last night represents the a turning point in the swap - there's no more stuff to take off the car - from now on I'll only be putting things back on. YAY! Rust under the drivers side guard is way better than the passengers side, so that's nice. If things go really well on Satuday I might have everything in primer. (Nothing ever goes that well now thou does it?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santanawhite Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Great work youve done there. Yet another build to look over. Your engine mounts are really nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 I've been pretty slack on the updates, but things have been happening! Took guard off and fixed some rust. ^^ I know it looks like my car is being held up by a pile of old bricks, but I assure you it's not. Chipping away... Modified headers to clear firewall/framerail. I painted all my suspension stuff with 2 pack Chris did some more weldy weld weld weld. I relocated the fuel reg. I put new brakes together They're R32 GTR brakes, the rotors are brand new curved-vane Wilwood rotors 296mm x 32mm which I got for a very reasonable price from Pedey. Last night represents the a turning point in the swap - there's no more stuff to take off the car - from now on I'll only be putting things back on. YAY! Rust under the drivers side guard is way better than the passengers side, so that's nice. If things go really well on Satuday I might have everything in primer. (Nothing ever goes that well now thou does it?) Are those copper brake lines? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyM Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 They're copper nickel alloy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 R32 brakes? Do those bolt up, or do you have to use some kind of brackets? You're really coming along on your project. It's looking awesome. Is there a reason for the FPR to be mounted on the driverside? I thought the VQ35DE had a right hand fuel connection? Your headers look awesome. Are you bolting to the stock Cats, or running open pipe back? How was pulling out the windshield? I'm horribly afraid of cracking mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyM Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 Yeah, thanks man. The brakes do need a bracket, but I've made a digital drawing of it which you're welcome to have. Then you can just send it away to get cut out. You're right about the VQ fuel being on the other side. The fpr is actually on the passenger side (right hand drive in new Zealand), I've put it there because their simply isn't any room amongst the master cylinders and stuff. I'll be removing the first damper from the fuel rail which means the soft line isn't too far from the fpr. I'll not be running the cats. The windscreen was really easy, just apply a bit of pressure from the inside with your foot and peel back the rubber a little and it'll slide out. Really easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 I wrote a longer reply, but the internet ate it. I was saying, Sure I'd love to see your bracket drawings, though the availibilty of the R32 parts here in the states might be a little more difficult. I might try using Z32 calipers if not the Toyota setup. I'd really like to use Z34 Brembo's but those are a bit pricy. Your Fuel setup: Perhaps you could swap your fuel rails 180 degrees. the Injectors don't care, and you'd have your input not only on the right side, but also moved rear on the engine. It might take some bracket work though. Thanks for the reassurance on the Windshield, I've never removed one before, and this one's been in there since 78'. Not running Cats okay, well you might need to mount your downstream O2 sensor in a tube so that you won't have mixture CEL issues. Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyM Posted September 7, 2012 Author Share Posted September 7, 2012 Oh yeah, good idea flipping the fuel line, I'll do that. I'm a little unsure about the downstream O2 sensors. Are they actually required? I've heard mixed reports. My engine didn't come with with them either. According to the fsm: MIXTURE RATIO FEEDBACK CONTROL (CLOSED LOOP CONTROL) SEF503YB The mixture ratio feedback system provides the best air-fuel mixture ratio for driveability and emission control. The three way catalyst 1 can then better reduce CO, HC and NOx emissions. This system uses air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1 in the exhaust manifold to monitor whether the engine operation is rich or lean. The ECM adjusts the injection pulse width according to the sensor voltage signal It goes on more about mixture self learning, but doesn't mention af sensor 2. Also, under "Multiport Fuel Injection (MFI) System" it says "[heated oxygen sensor 2] is not used to control the engine system under normal conditions." Are other people using the downstream sensors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 Most people leave them in but I know you'll get a CEL if there's no difference after the Cats (look up 350Z cat delete/test pipe issues) A lot of people put them in a tube which moves them away from the exhaust flow. I didn't see exactly what the results were, but some people had noted the car went into Limp mode. It's hard to say what the effects of leaving it out would be. I guess you could try it and see how it behaves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyM Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 Bay's painted. Everything looks pink but I think/hope it's just my camera being silly. Fuel/brake/clutch lines (mostly) in. I'm using the 350z clutch master. Added another steering uni and rose joint to clear the exhaust/mounts The gearbox came with this relocation bracket which puts the shifter too far back. So I cut that shaft out between the two uni's and welded the unis together, then made another bracket. I also just dropped the engine in for the final time last night. Bought a new airdam It'll look a little like this My goal is to have it ready for a cruise on Nov 3rd. I reckon it's touch and go. The plan is to start wiring this weekend. Send driveshaft away to get shortened, put everything back together and then finally drop it off at ttt to get the exhaust made. It's a lot more fun putting a car back together than pulling it apart! ho ho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyM Posted September 30, 2012 Author Share Posted September 30, 2012 Righto, the engine's in and various bits and pieces hooked up. I now have a shifter again! The position feels pretty good but I may move it a little closer to the floor. And I swapped the 11.75" rotors for 12.19" ones which means I have a lot more braking area. I will need to make new brackets to locate the caliper 2mm closer to the hub but will run it as is for now. Next tasks are wiring and put the suspension & steering back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 hehe, nice "Real Doll" tag on the box back there... Your care is looking pretty awesome. I can't wait to get to the reassymbly stage. (Neither can my wife) I'm still stripping paint. I'm probably going to switch to the aircraft stripper. My daughter is still taking the bulk of my spare time lately though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyM Posted October 23, 2012 Author Share Posted October 23, 2012 hehe, nice "Real Doll" tag on the box back there... Your care is looking pretty awesome. I can't wait to get to the reassymbly stage. (Neither can my wife) I'm still stripping paint. I'm probably going to switch to the aircraft stripper. My daughter is still taking the bulk of my spare time lately though. Ha, yes, my workmates played a joke on me and put the "Real Doll" logo on the box my air dam came in. ha ha. It is start to come together now. I've got a deadline of having it running by next weekend so I'm pulling all nighters. My wife isn't stoked I'm hardly seeing her but it'll be done pretty quick. Stay tuned! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyM Posted October 23, 2012 Author Share Posted October 23, 2012 (edited) I reckon there's a 10% chance I'll be ready to roll for hahei. So I made a list and I'll give it a bloody good nudge! Stuff I need for hahei: * Get driveshaft made - should be ready by Friday * Get ex haust made - check with TTT when the can fit it in, hopefully next Friday * Put Windscreen back in, bonnet on - Tuesday * Fashion MAF housing from drainpipe - Tuesday * Assemble front suspension and steering - Wednesday & Thursday * Reinforce floor around trans mount - Saturday * Electric radiator fan - anything from pickapart, Saturday * Reflash ecu - STM next weekend? * Assemble axles and drivetrain - Sunday * Assemble front body - Next Monday & Tuesday * Get wheel spacers to clear brakes - Some on trademe, need guards on first to check fitment * Bleed brakes & clutch, Put oil in diff & gearbox - Next Wednesday * Fix Leak in fuel filler neck - Next Thursday * Mount accelerator pedal Stuff that can wait: * Fashion shifter boot * Fix rust in roof * Speedo * Tacho * Coolant gauge * Oil pressure gauge * Fix rust in guards * Paint airdam * Mount fuse box and ECU * Sort out radiator - can probably use stock one for now Edited October 23, 2012 by MikeyM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyM Posted October 23, 2012 Author Share Posted October 23, 2012 A mate helped with some spannering last night and we made some good progress: * Put Windscreen back in, bonnet on * Assemble front suspension and steering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyM Posted October 27, 2012 Author Share Posted October 27, 2012 Got a fair bit done today, picked up the new driveshaft and put it in along with the axles. Reinforced the floor above the trans mounts. Put the guards back on. replaced a bit of rusty steel on one of them. I also managed o read the DTC's from the ECU, it is throwing NATS errors which is good because it explains why it's not starting AND STM are coming around tomorrow to reflash it and turn NATS off YAY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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