silverbullet280zx Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Intro / build Hey everyone I'm new here, looking forward to sharing and learning from other z enthusiasts... So a little background my dad had a 79 2+2 growing up I always thought it was a cool car specially when he would bark the tires and pull the E brake lol. What kid doesn't right.. Well when i started driving it was long gone and I drove whatever we had and eventually bought my own truck and pretty much stayed with trucks ever since. Well when it came to the point I needed a good little commuter car the Z was the first thing I thought of so i started my research on them and my search for one. After a few mnths seeing beat up old trashy z cars neglected, rusted out, and hardly running going for 1200-2000 or real nice ones out of my price range. I was getting a little disappointed then I came across a post that looked really promising so i went and checked it out.. 1983 280zx n/a 5sp t-tops for $3000.. not only was the car in good condition both running and looking but was in the process of improvements too, bonus it also came with a parts car no engine or Trans, but filled with parts also another zx engine from another zx minis the afm, bell housing, fly wheel, and the oil sump as well an extra n42 head. He even left the sound system in it for me. Part of the deal. The guy was really cool up front and honest. Told me all the info about the car, what he had done so far, what still needed to be done, and all the quarks that he could think of that would need to be addressed. So i decided to go for it I wasn't expecting on getting two cars but Ehhh why not!! We negotiated and settled on 2500 for everything. So I called a tow truck for the parts car and drove my new to me zx home. So far I've been very happy even with the quarks that still needs to be dealt with. BUT everything that is going on the guy did tell me about so i have no doubts about any of the improvements that he said he had done previously.. So over the past couple of weeks that I've had it I've been really busy!!! But ill save that for later this post is long enough that's for hanging in here. Now time for the best part pics!!!!! Although I have yet to take my own these are I think the best ones out of all that he sent me.. As soon as I figure out how Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Easiest way to post pics is to get an online photo album account, like at photobucket or something similar ( I use photobucket). You can then have it automatically resize your pics when you upload them, and it gives you quicklinks to simply post them in an format on this board. Plus if you are like me and have a bunch of other photos to dig though on your comp, my photobucket albums are strictly for my cars. You can also directly upload photos to your post using the little icon of 3 pictures right under the font and size drop bars, but only members can see them then. Post 1000 for me btw. yay me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet280zx Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 (edited) Thanks Blue, turned out that i was trying to upload from my phone and the file size was way to large.. So here we go tell me what you guys think!! And yes I know the lights are a 90's F&F fad but ehhh I kinda like them lol, plus when shes all up to par it'd be a cool addition for the car shows.. Feed back welcome!! Dont Know why the first pic is crazy big but ok?? lol Edited June 6, 2012 by silverbullet280zx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B. Whisky Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 She looks good, congrats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZUL8TR Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Looks great. I love the color, but then I should, that's the same color as my ZXT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boosted280 Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Looks good. I dunno why but I always been a fan of the under the dash interior lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet280zx Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 (edited) Thanks guys I've been having a blast with her been busy as hell doing things up. Will be posting some of the wrk I've been doing real soon... The color is awesome right!! I wish it wasn't faded in the few spots it is sm surface rust on pass door hood clear coat is pealing but still hanging in there.. I hear the turbos are really zippy in comparison to the NA motors.. can't wait to have a chance to go for a ride in one, or drive one lol. The interior lights are really cool the blue actually takes some of the on coming lights glare off the windshield and just makes the inside look awesome, between the dash lights all in blue the stereo and the floor lights it just makes it seem more fun to drive The under glow I really don't get you can't see it while ur driving. I guess for other people to see u coming but with the laws u can't run them on the road anyways... So got a question for u guys.. I've been trying to locate what front air damn and what wing is on my car just for personal info really.. do you guys have any idea?? The wing kinda looks like the street fighter on thezstore but mine is all metal not fiberglass... Thanks for the compliments and in advance for any info... Edited June 8, 2012 by silverbullet280zx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZUL8TR Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 The front spoiler is difficult to see, but I'm guessing its the urethane Xenon. I'd need a better lite pic to tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet280zx Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 The front spoiler is difficult to see, but I'm guessing its the urethane Xenon. I'd need a better lite pic to tell. Good deal Thanks for the help here is a better pic of the frnt air damn.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet280zx Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 Ok guys finally getting the opportunity to get on the computer and post my progress. So the start I replaced the whole exhaust with the stock one from the parts car it got extremely loud my first week off driving it found that it totally burned through the Y just after the exhaust manifold. Then I did a Full Tune-up. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, adjusted the valves and set timing back to 8’ found it at all most 18’ advanced?? Fresh clutch, full bleed out all new fluid and adjusted properly. New front breaks full bleed out all the way around. Then I went on to order up a new radiator all aluminum welded 3 rows, sweet find 175 bux shipping included. Swapped out the stock air box with the o’reillys build your on set-up tubing’s with the K&N cone filter. I’ve also dewebed the extra intake manifold and powdered it in wrinkle black semi-textured powder, and powdered one of the extra valve cover just to see how it would turn out and am running that. I have the 2nd extra valve cover at my old shop being done to match the color theme the p.o had already started along with the thermostat housing, water output fuel rail vac lines and mic other pieces. Once that’s all done my plan is to do a full rebuild on that side intake exhaust gaskets, injectors seals ect ect, prolly just go ahead and go all the way to the head gasket since ill already have it torn down that far. I took off the rims off the parts car tossed those tires got some new rubber on them and put them on in place of the 6 spokes going to clean up the six spokes powder them add some paint to go along with the theme and reinstall the new tires on them and get them back on the Z yeahh.. Lots of work going on and have totally been bitten with Z FEVER LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet280zx Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 (edited) Ok so what I need help with.. What are the stock settings for both the afm and the air fuel mixture screw?? Like turn it in all the way and turn it back out X # of turns for factory setting??? I’ve been getting some front fire ever since I’ve reset the timing. Other problem is I’ve go a major squeal coming from the engine had a couple of my mech guys take a listen. One says pilot bushing but there is no change in pitch clutch in or out? The other says vac leak in-between the intake mani and the heat shield above the exhaust mani. Just by my ear it seams its loudest at the bell housing... any ideas? Also having an issue with my temperature gauge it reads hot while at an idle but at freeway speeds reads correct. Have replace coolant temp sensor with used one and removed thermostat to eliminate intermittent stuck closed possibility. No change.. thanks in advance for any help.. Edited June 24, 2012 by silverbullet280zx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Just curious how did you deweb the manifold? dremel? Squeal could mean a lot of things, but if it's coming from the tranny area I'd be asking how old it the clutch, how many miles on the tranny....etc. The other guy who said it was a "vacuum leak" probably thinks that the intake manifold is deteriorated and letting extra air into the engine, which would throw off your AFM reading and could have been a reason why it was running sluggish. Normally if there is a leak letting air into the engine though your idle would jump way up. As for the AFM, I personally wouldn't mess with it, and the idle screw is to be adjusted to make the car idle at 750rpm, so for one car it could be different than another that was say on top of a mountain with thin air. Did the temperature read hot with your old radiator? or did this just happen after you switched out the old radiator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet280zx Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 Just curious how did you deweb the manifold? dremel? Squeal could mean a lot of things, but if it's coming from the tranny area I'd be asking how old it the clutch, how many miles on the tranny....etc. The other guy who said it was a "vacuum leak" probably thinks that the intake manifold is deteriorated and letting extra air into the engine, which would throw off your AFM reading and could have been a reason why it was running sluggish. Normally if there is a leak letting air into the engine though your idle would jump way up. As for the AFM, I personally wouldn't mess with it, and the idle screw is to be adjusted to make the car idle at 750rpm, so for one car it could be different than another that was say on top of a mountain with thin air. Did the temperature read hot with your old radiator? or did this just happen after you switched out the old radiator? De-webbing.. I started by drilling tons of 1/4" holes all the way around every runner then tapped the whole pieces out with a hammer cut down the high spots in-between the drill wholes with a dremal with a rotary bur bit, then used a file to smooth it all out with took my umm maybe like 4-5 hrs to complete. Squeal started after full tune up. Clutch is brand new I went after that first the throw out bearing was toast but that wasn't the problem tranny has new fluid in it forgot to mention that. Car has 120k overall. It is part of the reason for the intake rebuild side if that is the problem I know that I have a small intake leak at the back side I've put exhaust tape over it as a temporary fix The afm, and a/f mix screws I had to adjust after resetting the timing. But getting that front fire on start up dosent sound good at all everything aside problem wise she's running great.. once I'm still operating temp tho she dose has less power in the lower gears. I read that getting front fire is a sign of running lean so I'm trying to figure out how to adjust it properly between the two adjustment screws .. afm and a/f. As far as the temp gauge its been doing it the whole time PO did belt fan clutch thermostat I finished off with rat and hoses but still no change. I put the new rat in because it was intermittently boiling over after shutdown.. I have put a thermometer in the water and its not over heating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse. Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Is the aluminum radiator from MSA.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet280zx Posted June 26, 2012 Author Share Posted June 26, 2012 No way $300 + shipping I found it elsewhere. Here's a link, been running it 200 miles a day plus with no problems.. even has the ports to run In an auto, but who wants that!?! Lol http://www.genesisautoparts.com/all_aluminum_radiator-nissan-280zx-1979-2.8l_l6_171.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 MY friends civic had a similar cooling problem, it would run cool on the freeway, but when it was left idling at a stop light it would heat up. We had just changed out the radiator, new silicone hoses, and a thermostat. We thought the rad was the problem, it being a half size. Then we checked the brand new thermostat. Threw it in a boiling pot of water and waited for it to open....and waited.....and waited. Never opened. Got a new one and it worked fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet280zx Posted June 26, 2012 Author Share Posted June 26, 2012 MY friends civic had a similar cooling problem, it would run cool on the freeway, but when it was left idling at a stop light it would heat up. We had just changed out the radiator, new silicone hoses, and a thermostat. We thought the rad was the problem, it being a half size. Then we checked the brand new thermostat. Threw it in a boiling pot of water and waited for it to open....and waited.....and waited. Never opened. Got a new one and it worked fine. Yea I've had that problem too on other vehicles. that's exactly why i pulled the thermostat out, currently running without one no change in the way it acts. Gota look in the fsm I guess the coolant temp switch is the only connection for the gauge to operate isn't it? I'm guessing its either a gauge problem or a wiring problem dosent really make sense for it to read hot at idle and not actually be hot tho.. Any tips for my other issues?? Anyone? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Well you could always buy a infared gun and double check just to be safe. Better safe than sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet280zx Posted June 26, 2012 Author Share Posted June 26, 2012 (edited) Oh yea for sure I checked it out put in a high temp thermometer in the rat sitting in the driveway at full temp gauge reading 230-250 thermometer reading 180' so i know its ok just would rather have the stock gauge read correctly. Edited June 26, 2012 by silverbullet280zx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 I've seen S130 temp gauges read all over the map when really things were just fine. The boiling after shut off would be my most concerning symptom, but you seem to have solved that. Overall it looks good! Personally I'd say add some headlight covers, some 17x9 Rota RB's and call 'er done! I'd have tried to find a clean turbo for that price, but you scored plenty of parts that makes it not a bad deal at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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