Need some help before I hopefully buy

[mik3ster]

So I have the chance to buy a a 240z, but I don't think the VIN number matches appropriately which worries me, I was told the number is HLS30-161521. Does that make sense for a 1973 240z? I did do some searching online but couldn't find anything definite. If you cant tell from that may be someone could tell by the pictures(I know there's no battery). I've never had or even seen a Z car in person to be honest so this is kind of a deal breaker for me (I live really far away from the car so If I'm not sure I wont be making the trip). Thanks in advance, Mike.

[cgsheen]

http://www.300zx.cl/ga/300zx/images/serial%20number%20Datsun%20Z%20Car.htm

 

Look there... That VIN is in the proper range for the '73 model year...

[mik3ster]

Oh man, your the best, I looked for like 45 min for something like that, thanks so much. Other than that do you think that car looks alright, it can be mine for 3k, I thought it was a decent deal.

[ttodhunter]

You really need to check out the car in person. The big things to look for on early Z's is rust; particularly under the battery tray, down the frame rail to the passenger floor pan. You will want to bring a spare battery to make sure that it cranks over. If you plan on driving it home the same day, have the guy start the car over the phone or send a video of it running. It would probably be best to plan on dollying it home. There are too many things that can possibly go wrong (with an unknown car)to plan on having no problems.

 

Not trying to scare you off by any means (buy it!), but with a car that age it's best to prepare for problems.

[Gollum]

i drove my first (and only so far) S30 to work the day I bought it. Picked it up in Oakland, more than an hour from work, after having not looked at it at all. It was a project that had been driven daily and parked for lack of funds to continue. It wasn't the brightest idea to drive it to work, but drive it I did, and just for good measure it rained, good and hard.

 

I've owned 4 S130 (280ZX) cars by comparison, and even though I'd driven and ridden in other S30's nothing could have prepared me for the fear I would feel getting used to my new S30 that morning. It made quite a many squeaks, squawks, and bangs that had me leaving a little poo trail out of the holes in the floor...

 

I wouldn't wish that experience upon anyone. I did it because I NEEDED a car, and needed it NOW. I knew what I wanted and have NEVER regretted it! Best $1,100 spent in my life. Almost 5 years later now, plus a wife and a little daughter, I never even consider selling it, and the only time I broke down and even talked about it my wife (fiancee at the time) slapped it out of me, literally. She talked about growing old with that car, and that it should be around long enough to outlive me, and that selling it would just fill me with regret that would most likely cause me to make a poor rebound purchase.

 

I know this isn't all exactly what you were asking, but it's the kind of background I wish I'd gotten/read earlier on in my Z obsession. I absolutely love these little cars, but they can certainly have their moments that you just want to throw it all in the trash. I just thank God almost everyday that I'm not driving something like an Alfa, triumph, or some other awful car that goes wrong constantly. In 8 year and 5 cars the times I've been left stranded has been extremely rare.

 

Oh, and to sum it all up. If it's remotely low rust, then $3k can be considered a deal for a car that could be driven home with less than $200 in parts and 1 hour of labor. Don't worry too much about small rust holes in the doors, fenders, battery area, etc. Be worried about two rust factors. 1. Large areas of rust (especially in the hatch area). 2. Many small rust spots everywhere. Fixing a hole or two isn't bad, but if there's signs of work that needs to be done all over then you could be in for a VERY time consuming restoration if you want to "do it right". And if there's large sections then that means simply fabbing up some plugs won't fix it, and you'll need to find some donor sections to replace large areas. Also, looking at the details can really help. Do the fender bolts alone the hood line look like they're rusted solid? Paying close attention here can save you from buying a car not worth getting into. A member here that I know personally bought a car in which it seemed at least 9 out of 10 bolts removed just decided to separate their heads from their threads. There was more time spent drilling out bolts than actually bolting anything on. That's a sad, sad way to spend time working on your car.In some ways I'd take a half rusty car that's been completely torn apart in the last 5 years than a low rust car that's been sitting for decades. Even thought it might "look" nice, who knows what you'll find in the process.

 

But from what I see, I'd probably consider it if I was shopping.