Mikelly Posted July 19, 2002 Share Posted July 19, 2002 OK Guys, here is what I have: 1995 5.0 with GT40 Aluminum heads, GT40 upper and lower intake, 1.6 roller rockers, K&N filtercharger, 75MM Mas Air, 70MM TB, 155LPH pump, underdrive pulleys, MSD Ignition System. What cam do I use, and what HP and torque numbers should I expect with this combo??? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 19, 2002 Share Posted July 19, 2002 There are many cams that work well with you're combination. The most common are the E303 and B303 from Ford Motorsports. The E303 is an emmissions-legal cam if that affects you. You could probably get away with running an F303 or possibly an X303. If you the specs for the E303 are 220/220 dur. @.050" with .498/.498" of lift. The B303 is 224/224 dur. @ .050 with .480"/.480" of lift. The F303 has 226/226@.050 dur and .512"/.512" of lift. The X303 may be too much for your set-up but might be still useable with its 224/224@.050 duration and .542"/.542" of lift. My personal preferances are cams that tend to have a split duration with more on the exhaust side. The reason is that small block Fords have some breathing problems on the exhaust side and need all the help they can get-especially when using a power adder such as nitrous. There are plenty of manufacturers who make great cams and most have a help line to help you find which is the best for your application. I think that with the F303 cam or one similar you could easily breach the 300hp mark. I couldn't tell you anymore than that because of the variables involved like compression, cam timing, ignition, head porting(?), etc. It sounds like you've got a great combo. You may want to consider porting the heads if you haven't already, or possibly upgrading to a newer head design such as the AFR 165 or 185, TFS, and even Ford's own GT40X. Good luck and let me know how it runs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted July 19, 2002 Author Share Posted July 19, 2002 ...I just picked up these heads with 1.6 rockers today for $600 and they were O-ringed, and I know the history behind them...I'll be getting Jamie T. to port them for me, and this car already has the Mac shorty headers and the Hpipe, although the cats are in place. I do have to worry about emissions unfortunately... My goal is to break 325 at the wheels...Before adding power adders... Thanks for the help guys...Kevin I'll be getting that book! This is for the wife's car, but it will become my daily driver within the next year, so... I'm also looking for an ATI supercharger... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 20, 2002 Share Posted July 20, 2002 Call Chris at Exscessive. He not only has piles of parts for sale but he wrenches on them all day long. Hope those weren't Barry's heads as they've already been hogged out pretty good and performed exactly as Chris said they would on his stroker motor Putting metal back in is a little harder than taking it out. The GT-40 aluminum heads also had thin decks according to Chris, has any machine work been done on them other than the O-rings? Be careful, Chris has had some bad ones right out of the box although if there are used that shouldn't be an issue I hope. Beware the B303, it won't idle well at all on some cars. What you pick for naturally aspirated may suck for the blower so keep that in mind too, the stock cam isn't all that bad. Chris is also the Pro-charger dealer in this area. He may have a used unit or two kicking around and can get them rebuilt when needed. Watch the compression if you go blown - you've got hyperpathetic pistons in that motor too and they won't like detonation at all. Don't forget fuel, you may already be starting to run lean by the time you get a cam and everything else in there. Injectors are cheap, don't use the "nice" chrome intake tube that some sell as a cold air kit - it picks up heat big time. You'll need a MAF to go with injectors unless you get it chipped, adding a "calibrated" MAF for a set of injectors will screw with your timing tables BTW. Have you done gears yet? If not get them done soon! That will make a HUGE difference and with the parts you're putting on you've moved your power band upwards anyway. Heh, could go on all night long but there's lots of stuff for th eMustang. P.S. Chris sells some REALLY nice billet parts for the Mustang interior. A/C knobs, buttons, the works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 20, 2002 Share Posted July 20, 2002 Mike, you may want to look at Ford Motorsports, they're 303 cam series (B303, e303, x3O3), my brother has the 302 roller motor with I think its the E303 cam which lopes noticably, but it was rated at 345 hp on a fuely motor which I'm sure it would deliver all that and more with your setup. I can't tell you what the lift and such is off the top of my head but its 'around' 225 deg @ .050 lift, it may be split duration I can't recall, but look for one of they're sights and it'll tell you the whole speal. Anyway, there are probably aftermarket cams, but the Ford cams are reasonable for the money. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted July 20, 2002 Share Posted July 20, 2002 Mike, In the book, "5.0L Ford Dyno Tests" they had a similar set to yours. BTW-you should get this book as each modification included an actual Dyno Run to indicate the effect on power output. They were comparring the Upper Intake of two brand names: Cobra -vs- Edelbrock, and their parts list included the following: 1) Stock Block, Crank, Rods, Pistons 2) B303 Cam 2) Iron GT-40 Heads 3) GT-40 Valves 4) GT-40 Lower Intake 5) Cobra -vs- Edelbrock Upper Intake Comparrison 6) 36 lbs/hr Injectors 7) 80mm Mass Air Meter 8) Offroad Exhaust 9) 1.6 Rockers * Cobra Upper Intake gave 478 hp @ 5400rpms / 505 lbs.ft @ 4700rpm's * Edelbrock Upper Intake gave 490 hp @ 6000rpm's / 496 lbs.ft @ 4800rpm's It appears by other similar set ups in that book that the Exhaust/Camshaft are the key limiting factors w/the GT-40 Heads/Intake and/or similar components of other brand names. As other Dyno runs with similar components where the Exhaust were either stock manifolds or typical headers the power numbers were considerably smaller and in the neighborhood of: 331 HP @ 5200rpms and using Shorty Headers will net you the mid 450 hp @ 5500-6000rpm range. That book also has a chapter where they compared 8 different Cams for the 5.0L engien: all the way from stock to Midly Modified. Buy the book & you will be glad you did. (Wish I were getting commisions on all these book recommendations ). The book was, "5.0L Ford Dyno Tests" by Richard Holdener, published by Cartech's SADesign w/a 2000 copywrite date. When looking for it at a bookstore it has a paper cover that is moderate blue w/a binder that is dark blue. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 20, 2002 Share Posted July 20, 2002 I'd watch those heads if you supercharge the engine. Even with them being o-ringed, the early GT40 castings don't have a very thick deck on them. If you stay naturally aspirated, then you might want to consider 24lbs./hour injectors and a larger/matched MAF. C&L and Pro-M both make outstanding units. Also, the GT40 intake may become a somewhat limiting factor for all out power with a supercharger. Some of the newer intakes from Holley and Trick Flow are awesome and are reasonably priced to boot. I personally prefer the Holley Systemax with a little porting. The cam is also something to think of with a supercharger. To maximize the supercharger, a cam specific to blowers is the best route or possibly a custom grind. I have seen a "one size fits all" series of power adder cams for all types of power adders. These SUCK! Nitrous and Turbos both require a different profile to maximize their potential. Most of the major cam companies make cams for your application but "caveat emptor" applies here. If you do supercharge, you'll need larger injectors and a larger MAF. You'll also want a boost sensitive timing controller. Too much timing and you can say bye to your pistons(or worse) from detonation. I'll tell you, though, if you set everything up right, you'll be in horsepower heaven and you'll start to look at everything and wonder "could I put a blower on that?". Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted July 22, 2002 Author Share Posted July 22, 2002 Jim, Car has 373 gear already and yes those are Barry's heads and no, Jim Norris didn't do ANY porting on them... He screwed Barry on the port work and all I can see is the O-ring job and some shoddy port matching...That was pretty much it. I plan to upgrade the injectors and the mass air has been upgraded to a 75mm without any chrome air tubes, and the TB is an Edelbrock unit. I just ordered a BBK FP regulator. I may get Chris to Dyno tune it, but I'm also wanting to get a Tweeker for the ECC tunning, being this is an SN95 model... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted July 24, 2002 Author Share Posted July 24, 2002 Guys, what is the stock Fuel Presure supposed to be on a 5.0 with 19# injectors??? I bought a BBK FP regulator and plan to install it this evening... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted July 24, 2002 Share Posted July 24, 2002 The stock fuel pressure is 39 psi. Measure this by disconnecting the vaccum hose to the regulator. The stock regulator keeps the pressure at 39 psi above manifold pressure. The measured psig (referenced to atmosphere will vary from about 32 psig at idle to 39 psig at WOT. With the stock chip, 19# calibrated MAF, and an adjustable FPR, people have seen improvents by increasing the pressure to about 41 to 43 psi. I have a C&L 73mm mass air and 24# injectors, but haven't changed the FPR. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 25, 2002 Share Posted July 25, 2002 Be aware, changing the MAF and injectors screws with your timing curve. Most Mustang guys don't seem to realize this but it's true. I ran 30lb injectors with my blower - no crappy FMU and it worked well. The timing curves in the SN95 ECU are crappy to save the transmissions if I recall. Tranny is weak in that car, 3rd gear shift forks can be bent. Don't ever powershift 5th! Ditto' what was said above for cams. I'd consider just putting on 1.7 rockers and being done with that. Oh, and someone has come out with a programmable MAF modifyer. You use a laptop to change it's output - looks like a great tuning tool IMO. Cannot recall it's name Hyland sells it, not positive it works with 5.0s though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted July 25, 2002 Author Share Posted July 25, 2002 ...After reading the book I bought last night on tweeking the 5.0 Mustang motor, I found that the heads are the Y302 Turbo Swirl heads. Jim, I'm trying to do this on the cheap, so I'll likely just keep with the 1.6 rockers... If I get too carried away I may end up selling all my Z stuff and putting all my time and money in to this thing... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 26, 2002 Share Posted July 26, 2002 Heh, 1.7s can be found used. Problem with them is they have to be shimmed inorder to fit right - darned bolt-down rockers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted July 30, 2002 Author Share Posted July 30, 2002 I bolted on the BBK regulator on Saturday bumped the timing up to 16 degrees.. Interesting thing of note... I couldn't get the presure below 40PSI with that regulator... It isn't pinging, and it seemed to like the added timing and fuel, but I still would like to have had more adjustment in the regulator. Might order an Aeromotive unit and send the BBK unit back... Any experience with FP regulators??? For what it's worth, the car is noticably faster with more throttle response... And yes, I did check the presure with an external rail presure gage with the vacuum line off... Thought that might have been a question you guys would ask... I'm learning about these ford things... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted August 1, 2002 Author Share Posted August 1, 2002 OK, so I put on the BBK Regulator and now the thing won't regulate below 40PSI measured at the rail... Why is this??? Anyone else experience this one??? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted August 1, 2002 Share Posted August 1, 2002 Is your fuel pump too big for the regulator return line or regulator return outlet? You may have too much restriction - if you drive the car and see the pressure drop down, that may be the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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