duragg Posted August 16, 2012 Author Share Posted August 16, 2012 (edited) There is a good reason why I am in sales... Removed driveshaft= no vibration (surprise) Hard to get consistent measurements 1) rear of driveshaft pointed up 5 degrees above horizntal Diffy flange pointes down 5 degrees from hz Tranny flange pointed up 6 from hz 2) But some other times I got diffy down 4 and tranny up 7 (Facing each other so really they are close to in-phase., off by 3?) 3) Next I got 88 degrees up tranny, 87 up shaft, 88 up diffy (all meaning front to rear on this one) Terminoligy is tricky. Using the same face of the digital protractor is tricky for each. Beer please. More data: The stock mount has the diffy mount flanges about 1" above the cross member. I think with the R/T or AZC solit that is less, more like 1/2" From the website: The Energy Suspension top-mount places the front of the differential slightly lower than when stock, and the original bottom mount must be removed. This change in geometry is not significant in stock applications, but leads to slightly better driveshaft angularity with typical V8 applications. Edited August 16, 2012 by duragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted August 16, 2012 Author Share Posted August 16, 2012 Going to try this procedure which looks a little easier and more repeatable. Leaves the D/S connected too. Universal_Joint_Alignment_Proc_111606.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 (edited) Excellent tutorial, very well laid out. Time to revisit this also. I love the idea of the socket sitting on the U joint! Edited August 16, 2012 by madkaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted August 16, 2012 Author Share Posted August 16, 2012 (edited) Yes because you can keep the Level in the same relative position. Otherwise you have to turn the level around, and backwards, or sideways and you know they read a little different each way it seems. Or the indications are different and just introduces error. I suspect I will end up owing JM and others lunch for hitting the nail on the head. I was pretty sure the wiggly things were more suspicious. Through all this process, now I know a ****-ton (shitton) more about driveline than I ever did. A great new learning event. Tj PS: I like shitake mushrooms. Edited August 16, 2012 by duragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted August 20, 2012 Author Share Posted August 20, 2012 (edited) So... Can i just use spacer washers and drop the mustache bar down a bit to correct mty geometry? Honestly I might have gotten the mustache bushings installed wrong when I put it all in making it even worse. I was just excited to get it all in at that time. Tj Edited August 20, 2012 by duragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 So the pinion needs to go up? How much? Can you lower the tranny mount? What diff mount do you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 (edited) I have the "Technoversions" R/T mount with Energy bushing. I am ESTIMATING, this setup lowers the pinion about 1/2" compared to a stock mount. I have a stock tranny mount, but that would need to go UP? to match the angle of the lower pinion flange?? Or drop the rear of the diffy by spacing down the Mustache bar some to close the angles gap (I LOVE This idea because it is easy...). Edited August 21, 2012 by duragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 Or I can go back to the stock diffy mount. Which is so UN-HybridZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 How do you know the techno version lowers the pinion? Just curious because I ordered one today . I played with driveline angles until my back hurt and I need to lower my pinion about that much and that would make my job so easy!!!!!! I thought the techno version was supposed to put the diff in the original position Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 IF you use the Energy Bushing: From: http://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html The Energy Suspension top-mount places the front of the differential slightly lower than when stock, and the original bottom mount must be removed. This change in geometry is not significant in stock applications, but leads to slightly better driveshaft angularity with typical V8 applications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 Plus I have a stock mount which looks like it places the top of the transverse mount about 1" away from the bottom of the 2 circular flanges on the diffy. Just wagging, but the mount today is about 1/2". RT / Energy Mount position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 I guess I didn't read the ad closely enough- still great for my application which does use the energy mount. Hope this works out for you and me both!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 Well, since nobody has commented on my lowering the mustache bar to fix the lower front diffy mount- I officially know no better and will give it a whirl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 If your that close to being to stock geometry, why don't you use the stock diffy mount and use the Techno version to sandwhich it with the urethane cone they supply? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 I don't see a problem with spacing the mustache bar down to correct the angles. The bar takes a lot of load, so it and the mounts have to be strong. Be sure you've got a full nut with the spacers in place. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 RT TECHNO installed and angles came out less then 1 degree! No vibration at lower speed, try the fast stuff later. I still think the high speed was the halfshaft, but since I had 2 things going at once, hard to tell. That RT mount was a super tight fit, I barely got it in there. I had to beat it into submission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 I beat mine in too. Probably my 4.375 ratio makes it worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Well I didn't fix the high speed vibration. It seems less and the deceleration vibration I had in third is GONE. All I have now is a rhythmic vibration at about 75-80, that can be seen in the mirror , but hardly heard or felt. So this is a speed issue more than rpm? Believe I still need to drop the diff 1/4" to get it dead nuts- is that the issue? Not trying to jack your thread-hoping input helps Hope your luck is also getting better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 That's very similar to the vibration you get in a 280zx or Z31 300zx when the transmission mount sags until it's metal shell is solidly on the crossmember......meaning it acts like a solid mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted September 22, 2012 Author Share Posted September 22, 2012 My money is on angles. And you sir are 100% correct. Today I finally got around to spacing the mustache bar down as far as I could. Dropped it maybe 1/2" with spacers. Just enough so there was a thread showing on the lock nut. The vibration is gone. Thank you all. I never realized it was that critical. Tj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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