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Engine location


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Does the Ford smallblock oil pan sit above or behind the Datsun front cross crossmember in a typical swap? I'm wondering if the stock front-sump pan has to be replaced with a late dual-sump pan.

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I can only give an example of my set-up which I don't think is too far off from some other SBF set-ups I've read about. In mine, the block is approximately 1" forward of the firewall (to allow the removeal of the tranny separate from the engine) to allow access to the bell housing bolts. In that position, the pan (front sump) is about 1" lower than the crossmember, and was about 1" too far forward (interfered with the rear edge of the crossmember. Solution: remove material from the crossmember (which was then covered with steel sheet), or raise the engine up. In my case I wanted the engine as low as possible (was a track car), so I also adopted an unorthodox method of clearance in that I moved the crossmember forward 1.25" (to increase the caster angle) which then allowed additional room for the oil pan. The rear sump pans will have a front sump on them anyway, except that the front sump (which surrounds the oil pump itself) is slightly higher (less deep) than the rear sump. So if the engine is mounted in a low positon, then even this smaller sump will cause concern in it's relationship with the crossmember.

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Guest Anonymous

My engine is just at the cross member. I used the daul sump of a mustang and the front drain is just behind the cross member .I shoe horned long tube headers in the car and found that if I went any lower the headers would be to low ( they the first thing that hits ground now ) the car has been lowered 1 inch.Engine placement is pesonal choice you have to take all factors to count.It will be worth it in the end !!!!.

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Guest Anonymous

My SBF is 2.5 inches from firewall to top of bell housing bolt on the top of engine. The oil pan rides a little less than an inch over the rack ( on the crossmember). The front edge of the oil pan is smack dab over the center line of the rack. I guess the further back the better but I wanted to be able change transmission out.

I guess the further back the better for performance i.e Blueoval's/

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My setup puts the bottom of the of the 6qt pan about an inch below the the crossmember. It also is behind the crossmember so the down side is it will be tough to unbolt the tranny but I have a hoist I can pull both out with. I also could cut one inch holes in the fire wall to remove the bolts if it came to that.

 

Don

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The front of my pan is slightly behind the crossmember. The harmonic balancer is centered above the rack, and the engine is centered left to right. The centerline of the crank is even with the top of the frame rails. The engine is tipped back at an angle of 2.5 degrees. I can remove the transmission with the engine in the car, but cannot remove some of the bellhousing bolts from the holes until the transmission is tilted downward in the back.

 

If the engine were any higher, then the upper intake (fuel injected) would not have cleared the hood.

 

I weighed the car last time I was at the track. The car weighed 2600 pounds with 16 gallons of fuel. 1320 pounds in the rear, and 1280 in the front. If you want optimal handling, install the engine as far rearward and down as you can.

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My front sump oil pan is 1.5 inches behind & 1 inch below the front crossmember. I have notched the firewall (and then reinforced it)to gain access to bellhousing bolts. Either the engine or transmission can be removed individually or as one unit. With the engine that low and the car lowered I had clearence issues with the exhaust which I resolved with a side exhaust set up.

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