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I need help setting my distributor timing


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I lined up my tang to what looked to be the 11:25 position. This will be my 30th time doing this. When I start the car she starts instantly and without hesitation. The problem is she won't run unless I'm running full advance on the distributor. If I floor it she chokes @ 4,500 RPM. Am I still off one tooth? If I take her back one more tooth she'll be at 12 o'clock. If I move her forward one tooth it doesn't spark the #1 piston at all. Help please!! Also what is an ideal fuel/air mixture to start from i am runnning a fuel injected L28? i.e. how many full turns open from fully closed?

Edited by MazerRackham
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Set engine at TDC on compression stroke, remove the dizzy cap and check if the dizzy is pointing towards cylinder #1. if it is in between 2 wires, you know you have missed something regarding timing.

Edited by Lazeum
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Set engine at TDC on compression stroke, remove the dizzy cap and check if the dizzy is pointing towards cylinder #1. if it is in between 2 wires, you know you have missed something regarding timing.

Its not pointing at the #1 piston I mean that currently on full advance the rotor is touching the copper contact for spark plug number 1. I would imagine that at full retard it would be moved several milimeters back from that contact in order to truly "retard" the spark but correct me if I am wrong.

Edited by MazerRackham
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you're correct. I believe you might have setup your dizzy one tooth off. You would need to remove the oil pump to set up the squill shaft as it should. I've done the same mistake during my rebuild (but I found it out before cranking it for the first time)

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I lined up my tang to what looked to be the 11:25 position. This will be my 30th time doing this. When I start the car she starts instantly and without hesitation. The problem is she won't run unless I'm running full advance on the distributor. If I floor it she chokes @ 4,500 RPM. Am I still off one tooth? If I take her back one more tooth she'll be at 12 o'clock. If I move her forward one tooth it doesn't spark the #1 piston at all. Help please!! Also what is an ideal fuel/air mixture to start from? i.e. how many full turns open from fully closed?

 

Are you running carbs? 2 1/2 turns down from flat on the bridge if you have SU's, that is the "stock" setting.

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It's just a guessing game without a timing light. The timing of the spark is determined by the orientation of the reluctor (six-pointed piece on the top of the shaft) to the pickup coil. The orientation of the rotor just determines which plug gets the spark.

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It's just a guessing game without a timing light. The timing of the spark is determined by the orientation of the reluctor (six-pointed piece on the top of the shaft) to the pickup coil. The orientation of the rotor just determines which plug gets the spark.

Thanks NewZed! I'll try it right now!!
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So the timing light helped a lot. The problem now is that my idle speed is almost 2K RPM!!! I've tightened the idle speed adjusting screw all the way down and its still way up there. Perhaps I haven't clogged the vaccum advance on the distributor enough? This is weird because before I replaced the head-gasket it would idle just fine. Am I supposed to have the vaccum & EGR system put completely back together before I try to set the timing on the engine?

Edited by MazerRackham
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you might want to check for leaks also. You might have too much air somehow getting into the engine at idle.. If you vacuum system is not plugged, that could be your "leak"

Thanks guys I'm going to go through all the motions tomorrow and report in! Edited by MazerRackham
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