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HybridZ

LS remote clutch bleeder


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When I first did my conversion, I used an 18" speed bleeder from Speedwaymotors.com. I liked how it was cheap and it had a little groove in the far end that let me use a brake line retension system. However, it was a PITA to have to get under the car to bleed the clutch, and the bleeder came with a tiny little bleed nut that was NOT a speed bleeder.

 

When I did my clutch swap, Eastcoastperformance.com sold me a 48" insulated remote bleeder line (has speed bleeder) that allows more installation options. It does not have the little groove on the end of it to allow a little u-clip/c-clip to secure it somewhere. I routed it up thru the engine compartment to the location of the old windshield washer reservoir, that I trashed 20 years ago, down into the fender area. My plan is to be able to bleed the clutch simply by turning my wheels to allow access. In a worst-case scenario, I'll have to pull that tire, which I do before going to the track anyway. I'm going to install an eye-bolt to hang a water bottle from as a catch-can for ejected hydraulic fluid so I can "one-man" it.

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I must still have air in system. If I gently rest my foot on the pedal it creeps down but if I stop on it enthusiastically it feels good. With this location, I can pull line up and circulate it thru the reservoir thereby bleeding without having to constantly refill reservoir. I think I still got some air to purge.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Since air rises I dont see how you are ever going to get the air out. Kind of like installing brake calipers upside down with the bleeder at the bottom ....

 

I used the speedway 18" or so and clamped it to the firewall pointed up. Actually when I first did the swap I only bled it from the master and it worked great for years. Then my niece kindly pushed the clutch pdeal when the engine was out and pushed out the seal so I installed one then to make sure there were no problems.

 

Cameron

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The remaining air was in the master cylinder. Once I sucked that out the top with a might vac, the rest of the system bled really easy with my setup. Proofs in the puddin: I'm driving again!

 

I don't want to be the one to say it.......

 

OK, yes I do.

 

I told you so!

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The mity vac is the only way I bleed my clutch anymore. I bled it the "normal" way back when I first put the clutch in my firebird, couldn't get it all the way bled, went and bought a mity vac and have never looked back. Come to think of it, I dont even think I can fit a rachet on the bleeder in the Z, think it's too close to the tranny tunnel now.

 

-Will

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I've been working with a mighty vac and learning along the way. I bled my master the regular way, but just couldn't get all the air out of it until I did the mighty vac trick. However, I couldn't really pull any fluid out of the remote bleeder unless somebody actuated the clutch pedal, too. I don't know whether the mighty vac was pulling the speed bleeder closed or what?? But, once I got the air out of the master, bleeding was a breeze in the old traditional way. And, until I have an antigravity machine to make the spent fluid levitate into a container, I'm gonna have to use some sort of hose that is pointed down to direct the spent fluid into a catch bottle. Once the air is out of a trap, like a caliper or master cylinder, the air bubbles seems to flow up or down carried by the fluid either way, whether the hose is at the highest point or not.

 

Will, how do you get the mighty vac on the stock bleeder? Did you cut a hole in the floorpan/trans tunnel?

Edited by RebekahsZ
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SUNNY-You silly man! The air in my system (this time) got there when I changed the master cylinder (which was the defective part that gave me such a bad time). Prior to that I had all the air out. The problems all along were: 1) defective master cylinder, and 2) warped flywheel, not air in the system. *$%@# I TOLD YOU SO *&^$!

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Yeah, I was gonna try to tease you and say: "SUNNY-why dont you shut up and go break some s hit!" But, I was afraid I might catch you at a tender moment and hurt your feelings. Nothing like friends to twist a knife in your chest. I'm gonna commit to my Z-car being a compromise by design and limit horsepower to allow some reliability. If I don't get tired of cars breaking my heart, I hope to build a retro-styled A-model on duece rails that has a 9-inch and a big LS-motor that I beat the crap out of as a dedicated drag car with NO handling potential. It will be barely streetable, whereas my Z has super street manners. BTW, I bet your skateboard handling is caused by your spherical bearings at the camber plate level. On that drive to Birmingham this weekend, I was marveling at how smooth (but firm) the ride on my Z is with the same spring rates that you have. I'd have to ride in it to be sure; I went thru all my major suspension mods about 10 years ago and that was a trying time trying to get it all sorted. The only suspension mod I have left is droop limiters, which I plan to get done sometime between Dec and Feb this winter.

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