egzlilgituarboy9 Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 So I recently got in my stub axles and cv adapters from modern motorsports (after waiting 3 months) decided to replace wheels bearing while im there. So i go ahead and install them and find that when tightend down they are stiff and do not spin well and effort is actually needed to spin them. Also tried taking out the inner seal because I thought that the cv adapter was rubbing on that and still no luck. Could there be a problem with these axles? I even tried the old bearing and same issue, triple checked that all of the bearings were seated fully. Im out of ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 You did install the original spacer (sleeve) that came with the car correct (between the bearings)? I'm not 100% on the MM install, but I would think you would still need them unless instructions say otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 Definitely still need the spacer. Other likely problem is that the dust seal isn't installed all the way and the seal lip is dragging on the CV adapter. Enough people are running these that there is no question about them. If they don't work on your car it's probably because something is installed incorrectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheesepocket Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 The factory manual calls the spacer the "distance piece" and they go to a bit trouble to emphasize using the correct length one for your hub. It makes sure you are holding tension only against the bearing inner races, and I'd bet on a very short bearing life if too short or missing spacer is the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 As a note, the distance piece is stamped (A,B,C) as is the housing. These must match as the final machining of the housing dictates the preload. It isn't out of question but most people have the original distance piece only (or spares sitting in a box somewhere) so mismatching seldom happens. I've never torn down a S30 to find different distance pieces from left to right... they've always matched for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 Don't just blindly torque it to a number. The FSM has specific steps to install and to measure the bearing preload. You adjust the installation torque to meet the preload spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z240 Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 (edited) I recently experienced the same issue while changing both rear bearing sets. I have MM's inner CV flange with stock stub axles. One side went together "normal" with expected preload reached at ~200 ft/lbs, but the other side got real tight real quick as I just began applying torque on the nut. Took it all apart, cleaned it all very thoroughly, re-cleaned the bearing seats in the housing, re-greased everything and re-set the seal carefully, and it went together and torqued up normally this time, just like the other side. Wouldn't take much "error" in something to cause a bind. Clearly having that spacer in the middle missing would cause havoc. Edited October 4, 2012 by z240 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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