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Replacing Brake Hardlines


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So I was changing out my old calipers on my 76 280Z since one was dragging. The first side went fine, but when I put the second on and tried to bleed the brakes it started spraying fluid from the bottom of the fitting as if it wasn't sealing or something. I thought it just wasn't tight enough but it finally just snapped when I tried to bend it back into the caliper. So I know I need a hard line that is 3/16'' and has fittings that are M10x1.00 and from what I could tell it is a double flared line. Here is the problem. Everywhere that I have looked, these lines with this thread only come in the bubble flare and I am wondering if that would work or if I would need to custom make my own line. Also once I get a new line on there will I need to adjust the proportioning valve since the reservoir ran dry from not having a line connected on there? Thanks!!

Edited by Wasatch7
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The bubble flare won't work. The auto part stores should have pre-made lines with the metric fittings and inverse double flare ready to go. They do here in Los Angeles anyhow. O'Reilly has an 8" long line that has the correct ends and flare available from their website: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/AGS1/PAJ308/N0834.oap?ck=Search_brake+line_N0834_-1_2666&keyword=brake+line&pt=N0834&ppt=C0066

 

If you cannot easily get lines with the correct flare you can buy bulk line and flare the ends your self re-using the old fittings. Another option is to buy a pre-made length just for the tubing and cut the ends off and then flare it your self.

 

The proportioning valve does not needs any attention. Simply bleed the brakes when you are finished installing the new lines.

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10mm x 1.0 brake double flare hard lines are available from Pep Boys etc. Since you ran the master cylinder dry you will need to fill it and then bleed the air out of it. Just run some clear 1/8 plastic tubing from the bleeders back into the MC tanks. Use something to hold the hoses in the MC tanks so they don't pull out while pumping the brakes to bleed the MC.

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Also don't pump fast when you bleed the master (or any brakes for that matter). If you pump fast while bleeding the master you'll aerate the fluid, then pump that air down towards the calipers when you bleed the brakes again.

 

BTW bending that little hard line is a ***** to do without kinking it, so be careful.

Edited by JMortensen
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Also is there anyway to tell that I have the line tight enough? I dont want to tighten it up too much and have it snap like the last one, or leak at all.

Look up the torque specs in the Brake section of the (free!) FSM.

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