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Trying to get engine started on MSII have spark, have injector pulse


motomanmike

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The goods,

82 L28ET bone stock

Stock low impendence injectors

MSA downpipe

LC-1 wideband with gauge

Stock turbo

EGR removed and all vacuum ports not needed are plugged

Stock 82 distributor

using a standard coil with bip373 installed

 

 

 

 

I have good cranking pulse, shows rpm and "cranking" in megasquirt.

 

Car has good spark and will fire up on starting fluid so I know that silly things such as firing order are correct and that my ignition portion of megasquirt is finally working right THANK GOODNESS. I went through alot originally to get to this point and I wouldn't be at this point if it wasn't for Matt Cramer being so helpful.

 

I have attached the msq file. Please give some pointers. I've verified that my injector banks are firing with a noid light. They are new fuel injectors low impendence for the turbo engine, in addition the fuel system is all new. 280z tank conversion. New walbro pump, new lines. Fuel pressure is solid at 40lbs. My fuel pump kicks on and primes when i turn the key on, I also hear it kicking on while cranking. All items in MS show right in tuner studio, my air temp, coolant temp, tps signal, wideband o2 signal all show correctly and are stable no noise on the system, i'm using the relay board.

 

I can't even get a sputter or pop backfire at the moment so something is way off with the injector pulse. This file is a rough tune I found trollig online someone had gotten their car started on. I may have overlooked quite a few things obviously. I'll have some time tonight to try a few more changes and see how it works out. I'm getting closer.

current l28et tune.zip

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Does the engine run, will the engine run on its own after first spraying it with starting fluid?

 

Are the injectors actually spraying fuel? Are your settings correct in ms for low impedence injectors?

 

Did you perform the coolant sensor calibration and enter the numbers in MS, i don't see the sensor calibration. I just see 0

 

Once you get it to start on its own, try adjusting cold start after you get it to start on its own.

Edited by dexter72
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Engine will run when misting fuel into the itake. Sounds very smooth when you do so its all in the injector pulses. They were brand new factory turbo fuel injectors low impendence. The fuel system is all new. I've verified all the leads are firing correctly with a noid light, just not happy on the injectors I guess. I thought i'd have time tonight to look at it but from what my boss is telling me that isn't going to be the case. I had the engine running before on the stock ECU and harness so I know the engine is good and runs well. I'm reluctant to go too far with the PWM because of the low impendence injectors. I'm not sure how far you can really push but its either a timing/injector pulse issue but i'm pretty confident the ignition timing is ok due to how it runs misting fuel.

Edited by motomanmike
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I sent a data log to Matt and he replied to check the cranking pulse. So I'm guessing my other values are ok i don't want to fool with them too much but I've tried with it about an hour tonight with no better results. I'll be up late tonight trying to get it going so I'll report back what I've got at the end of it. I have tried those values with no change. She just cranks. I'm not quite sure what % cranking pulse I should set the sliders on the graph in regards to the cranking pulse vs temperature. Wondering if that's part of it. We shall see how it goes

Edited by motomanmike
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Ok what I've found. The injectors just aren't spraying any fuel. I have good solid 40lbs at the rail. Injector banks do not fire in output test mode. No matter what kind of values I plug in the ecu will not fire any injector on any bank in output test mode. Spark output test mode works fine. Fuel pump kicks on in test mode. So I installed brand new plugs. Cranked a bit, checked plugs and they are dry still. If I crank the car with the injector leads unhooked from the rail and an old fuel injector in my hand hooked up i feel it clicking while engine is cranking. With the injector leads hooked up to the car I can hear the injectors on the rail click when i turn the key on, and as soon as I stop cranking i hear them click but its hard to hear while cranking. I've played with the values of the PWM. I've played with the cranking pulse settings, also the time threshold and % and dead times. I've attached the tune I'm trying to get started with and the cranking log from this morning. From what I see its not that much different than what many others have gotten cars started on before, or at least even coughing. Am I right in thinking that if I have spark, and the ecu will fire a noid light, or make an injector in my hand click while cranking that my issue is in my settings, not the ecu?

current.zip

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Its alive guys. I got it started up today playing with the cranking pulses. Required fuel value also was way too low. It starts right up now, way better than my carbed car could ever dream off. I spent the better part of the afternoon trying to get it to idle right and its pretty close sounding to the ear a little putter here and there. I still have something crazy going on with my LC1 or my air fuel ratios are just so far out its not reading right or at all. It will rev right up but i'm too scared to even think about driving it until I get this wideband squared away. Either way i'm a happy guy. It has been a very long road with this Megasquirt setup but I can't say I wouldn't do it again. If it wasn't for the dedication Matt Cramer and DIY have for customers I might say I wouldn't. Now to clean everything up and tune. Matt thanks again for your help! You are the man! Thanks everyone for looking at my posts and input. I hope to roast a set of tires very soon.

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LOL you are oh so right. I got it to idle halfway right this afternoon. I'm not sure whether or not i've got the thermistor settings right for my sensor. i'm using the stock head temp sensor for my clt temp. its very close but not quite right and I need to borrow a friends laser thermometer or whatever it is called to verify. I've now got my wideband calibrated correctly. I didn't even attempt driving it anymore than getting out of the garage so I didn't choke to death from exhaust. Its still a long road ahead but its officially better than walking :) I'm sooooo excited.

Edited by motomanmike
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I've got it so she will fire up immediately and idles pretty well. It would get them started but its no where near driveable. Once I get it to where I can cruise around a little bit i'll be more than happy to upload. Yes this is the most stock set up one could have for an L28ET. Stock injectors, stock J pipe, no frills at the moment. I'm not using any kind of idle valve yet. I might try to configure the stock air idle valve but really it idles pretty well. I found I had my base timing WAY off but using the trigger wizard, a timing light, some nail polish to mark the pulley better and 2 sets of plugs later its about as close as it will get. I've attached my base map, its VERY ROUGH so you have been warned. This set up consists of a stock 82 distributor, GM IAT sensor in the Jpipe, Utilizing the stock head temp sensor for my CLT temp (saves from drilling the stock thermostat housing). Stock low Z injectors and a walbro pump. LC-1 wideband, MSA downpipe, Stock turbo and wastegate. Also i'm using the direct coil control mod using the old stock coil. Once I get it driving i'll be more than happy to upload another map. This map has just a basic Idle tune, nothing more.

base L28 tune.zip

Edited by motomanmike
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  • 2 weeks later...

Boost rippage. I've driven it in its bliss for the past two days. I'm like a kid with an early Christmas present weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee LOL. Now i've just got to fine tune. Its running really rich in the mid 10 afr's under boost and I know there is more power there. I'm trying to figure out what the best way to calculate my 16x16 VE table ranges, kpa and rpm. I won't ever rev past 5600 or so, i'll probably set the ending bucket to 6k and stock boost so around 155 max kpa then retune the ve table. I've got some lurching going on cruising, i've disable ego correction and backed down the map and tps correction percentages. I've made a few runs on the data log but i'm pretty sure its in the timing. I've maybe had 2 hours tuning between driving and looking at logs. I just did drive it for real with a halfway driveable tune last night and today got it to where it will sink you back in the seat nice through the gears. I'm happy for sure. The oil still looks very clean, doesn't smell of gas, nice and brown. The car doesn't smoke at all, has good oil pressure and compression. Its close. I can see my next upgrades will be some much better brakes!!! Once I get the ranges in the VE table and its tuned well i'll post my map up on the faq. The one I posted before will get it fired up but I had the wue ending values wrong and it wasn't turning off and a few other bits of oversight I had to fix before I could drive it. Thanks for asking. I'd like to see that 260 it looks nice in the picture.

Edited by motomanmike
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Sounds good. I love seeing more Datsun Z's. I've logged about 200 miles so far. Pulls hard but bucks alot when just trying to drive normal out of boost. I haven't quite pinpointed where to start tweaking on that one. Very lurchy starting off, bucks on the highway at pretty much constant rpm and throttle. Brand new decent turbo clutch and flywheel slips under about 4-5 lbs of boost so its putting it down when I want it to. Just can't get it smooth driving yet.

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  • 6 months later...

I tried the map sharing thread. The ones I saw close to stock were just links to nothing files. 0kb files. :@ Im kinda learning more. I saw Mobythevan had some screen captures in .jpg format. I will look for cygnus or whoever as I continue to search.

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