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My SDS install

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I read that too and thought "Not a good idea, but who am I to say anything?".  Seems I'm not the only one who was wondering about the JB Weld comment below.




Pete Sprenger,


This is a quote from post #1 in this thread.

I picked up a N42 intake manifold and a 240sx throttle body locally from Craigslist. I ported out the opening to match the ebay special 1†spacer I bought (this spacer didn't compensate for the oblong opening on the stock mani, so I filled that in with JB Weld).


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If you would rather just tke the whole car to Duane, let me know. I have a car trailer that is built specifically for an S30. I'd be happy to help you move it. P.S. I'm taking my

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I missed that. I also agree. JB Weld on the inside of any engine isn't a great idea, but definitely not on a Datsun L engine. These things have so much vibration that it is guaranteed to vibrate loose eventually. The best solution would be to find someone who can weld aluminum to fill it in for you. It shouldn't cost much and will be a permanent fix.

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Well, I guess this is why I mentioned I might do something dumb.  I was planning on sending off the stock intake to Lonewolf to get ported and have the throttle opening done correctly while using this one to get things up and running.  If the concensus is that this is a very bad idea, I may have to reconsider.  I'll have a status update later tonight.

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I got a little bit of work in over the past week.  I got the injectors back on and mounted and the wiring soldered to the resistors.post-12144-0-28136000-1359607453_thumb.jpg

I had cut the wires from the hall sensor when removing from the Legend, so I had to test which wire was for the sync and which for the trigger.  I ran about 4 feet of wires from each lead and hooked up to the hall plug for the ECU.  Luckily, I guessed right the first time.  I powered up the SDS for the first time in the Z and made sure that the magnets read correctly on the controller, then ran the wires back towards the firewall. 

I decided to mount the cold start valve in the stock coil location.post-12144-0-51061800-1359607475_thumb.jpg

I got the throttle body mounted and connected to the linkage, and all works well.  post-12144-0-59525600-1359607501_thumb.jpgpost-12144-0-88805700-1359607514_thumb.jpg

I also checked the wires on the throttle body and found that red= +5v, white= signal and black= ground... Pretty obvious. 

I had the plug wires (MSD Superconductors) left over from the Legend, but they had different plug ends, so I cut those off and removed the insulators from the stock Z wires and came up with a hybrid.  post-12144-0-67421600-1359607591_thumb.jpg

I ran a wire for the injector + to the fuse box I put together in previous posts.

I mounted the MAP sensor in the location from a previous post, but still need to put a T in the line to the FRP and run the vacuum line. 

I ran a wire from the Green out of the coil pack to where the factory coil negative goes.  Not sure if that will work, but I'm going to try it. 

So, most of the work had been finishing up wiring, but I feel progress is being made.  Now I have to figure out my game plan for the intake manifold, finish the vacuum tubing, create a relay for the cold start, fab up an intake and put all of the components (radiator, water pump etc.) back in place. 


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Well, I got my stock manifold sent off to Lonewolf Performance to get their port package.  James there has been great and will be porting the runners to match the gasket, and will bore the tb hole to match the spacer I supplied him and filling in the notch.  I got the pulley, water pump and hall sensor mounted and had my fiance monitor the handheld while I rotated the crank by hand.  We saw all three magnets and the sync, so I was happy.

I will need to get a belt that is about two inches longer so that the alternator fan will clear the hall sensor. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

OMGOMGOMG!  I got the manifold back today, and WOW, it looks amazing!  I quickly took off the other manifold so I could compare.post-12144-0-85061400-1361502506_thumb.jpgpost-12144-0-18016300-1361502520_thumb.jpgpost-12144-0-20729700-1361502562_thumb.jpgpost-12144-0-11328100-1361502580_thumb.jpg

I took some measurements with my super accurate $10 Harbor Freight caliper. post-12144-0-05137800-1361502646_thumb.jpgpost-12144-0-95039100-1361502663_thumb.jpgpost-12144-0-69770800-1361502777_thumb.jpg

It looks like there is about a 20% increase in the surface area of the runner.  Good stuff.


I was able to figure out which wire went to the coil pack and the TB by running resistance tests through the harness.  I spliced and soldered the connections.  I also tried to clean up the wiring a bit with some loom.  Pics of that later when I'm done. 

I also had to order another knob from SDS since I think that got scrapped with the Legend...


More to come.

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So, first attempt at starting resulted in nothing but cranking.  Did the normal troubleshooting tricks and found that I wasn't getting spark.  I had previously tested and seen the magnets, but had moved the hall sensor once I got the alternator mounted.  After some re-adjusting, I tested for spark, shocked myself and confirmed spark.  The engine fired right up!  I had to adjust the tb for a decent idle, and then it just purred.  I ran it through the rpm range and all was well.  I set the timing to a guessed 10 degrees initial (the hall sensor mount did away with the timing indicator, but I'd done it a few times and it looked like where 10 was).

I tried to upload some videos, but my router isn't liking uploading.  I'll try to get some up soon.


I took it out for a test ride and it feels GOOD!  The throttle response is incredible.  It rained a little bit, but 1st gear broke traction with mid throttle.  I found that there is a problem when it hits 4k RPM where it feels like a fuel cut and the handheld stops displaying RPM.  I ran through all of the values and don't see anything obvious, so this will take some troubleshooting as I really want to feel some upper RPM's.


My oxygen sensor won't move past lean...  Before, with the key in 2, the O2 sensor would heat up and you could watch the lights move towards stoich.  Not anymore.  I'm thinking that my bargain sensor may be crap.


So... Lots more tuning and finding out whats cutting at 4k.  I think I know what I'll be up to tomorrow.

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Troubleshooting section says:

RPM ERR message or engine miss:
1. Check Hall sensor alignment.
2. Check Hall sensor air gap.
3. Hall sensor bracket is vibrating. Improve bracket.
4. Interference from plug wires. Try a different brand of spark plug wires.
5. Make sure that all SDS sensor wiring and Hall sensor cable is not close to spark plug wires or any
high current/voltage wires.
6. Check plug gap. Reduce to confirm.
7. Check alignment of Hall sensor over magnets. Loosen Hall sensor mounting bolts and try
adjusting Hall sensor.
8. Spark plug gap too high. Reduce gap.


I think the plug wires do get pretty close to the hall sensor wires.  I'll try that first.

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I know some spark plug wire brands can cause interference with the SDS system. The brands are listed in the manual. I can look them up later today if you don't have the manual.


I think it is more likely that your timing values are off. I'll post the values that Dave Rebello gave me later today. I have to go have brunch with the family right now.

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Here is the timing curve I got from Rebello. It is conservative, not a set of race values. My guess is that your timing isn't advanced enough above 4000. Let me know. Also check to make sure your Fuel Cut setting is set for 6,000.



500-1000. 10

1250. 12

1500. 15

1750. 18

2000. 22

2250. 24

2500. 25

2750-4500. 27

4750-5000. 28

5250-5500. 29

5750-9750. 30

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Wow, that did not post the way I formatted it. Let me know if you can't make heads or tails of it and I will try again. Let me know if you want any of my other values. Keep in mind that my engine doesn't have a MAP sensor. I have to tune it with only RPM FUEL and THROTTLE POSITION, which s a pain!!!

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My ignition seems to be a bit more agressive, hitting 33* by 2750.  Fuel cut is set to 6500.  I re-routed the Hall Sensor wires so that they were nowhere near the plug wires or other major wiring.  I guess the next easiest solution will be to check the plug gaps, but will probably have to do some tinkering with the hall sensor...

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WOOOOoooo!!! It was the magnet alignment. I bought spark plugs, but those didn't help, so I got under the car and moved the magnets until they (apparently) were aligned properly. I took the lady out for a spin and it flew through the rpms (I still need to get the tach hooked up so I know where I'm at). Jumped on the freeway onramp and hauled past people on the freeway. It feels great and I'll try to get some G-tech readings soon. I think I have the fuel and ignition dialed in fairly well, but will continue tuning and eventually hit the dyno. I'll work on preparing a summary of the entire process and will post my settings once dialed in. Oh, and I'll try to get some videos up.

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