clutch grinding issue

[Turbo72-240]

my car: 77 280z stock with k&n intake and exhaust

picked up about 3 months ago, before i baught it, it hasnt been started in 20+ years.all fluids changed.gave it tune up.almost roadworthy(but far from pretty)

 

okay, so my z is finally almost roadworthy

one of the last issues is getting the clutch situated.i replaced the master,slave, and clutch line and i cant go into gear while the motor is running.

i bled the clutch system, everything is connected properly, the slaves pushrod moves the clutch fork, but im not sure if it is enough movement.

my question is: would the rod adjustment coming from the master to the clutch pedal cause grinding gears.i cannot go into 1st at all while the car is running, but the other gears i am only able to force into gear.

do i need to give myself some more room on the master cylinder rod for it to go into gear properly?i dont have too much room to work with though, that is my only issue

thank you very much

 

also, while i am posting(so i dont have to make a new topic)

what could cause the motor to choke when i hit the accelerator?

it idles perfectly fine, but when i hit the gas it wants to bog down and choke unless i really pump the gas until it can rev up to about 2k.my guess would be something with the air/fuel but im not sure what exactly it would be.i do know that my intake is all solid with no air leaks(that was my first issue and i figured that out already) so i made sure there were no more leaks, so that is fine.there is new spark plugs and wires.93 octane gas with octane booster(because the car hasnt been driven in 20+ years and now its running again for the first time since then)

any help is appreciated, thank you

[zohanisback]

Hi there! There's several things that can cause a grinding when going into gear. A bad tranny is one, but that's probably not it. It does sound like the clutch master cylinder adjustment is out.

• Easy way to test this is to jack the rear of the car up, then put it into gear with the clutch depressed.
  
• If the tires start moving, you need to adjust the master cylinder so the rod is more depressed when the clutch pedal is relaxed. Probably 1-3 mm is all you need.
  
• If the tired don't start spinning, maybe a bad tranny. But IDK if I'd worry about that at this point.
  
• Also make sure that the slave cylinder is bolted down correctly and all the way on the transmission. Double check just to be sure.
  
• Also check to see if the clutch pedal is firm or soft. If it's still soft, you probably need to bleed it again. Get someone to help you depress the pedal and feel for yourself until there are no more air bubbles.
  

 

As far as the acceleration goes:

• Could be the carbs need cleaning (try some seafoam?) or need rebuilt.
  
• Could also be the accelerator pump. Mine had problems, too. To test, hit the gas until it bogs down, then just let of the gas and punch it very quick. If it roars to life, could very well be the accelerator pump.
  

 

Good luck and welcome to the club.

[Pharaohabq]

Could be the clutch fork. Either the fork is the wrong one, or the pivot isn't adjusted far enough to allow the fork to fully depress the clutch splines. get under the car and see if you can wiggle the fork, if it's got a lot of play, then that's the issue. you might be able to just adjust the pivot and go...

 

Oh, You said you replaced the clutch master. The linkage on the master may also be the issue. Between some years the linkage was longer, so compare the old parts. a 1/4" may be all the difference.

Edited December 3, 2012 by Pharaohabq

[Turbo72-240]

The tires do spin a lil when the clutch is pressed and the clutch is firm.so i may check that.and my z is fuel injection...so no carbs.haha.

And i kniw when i was bleeding the slave i could move the clutch fork around freely.i have nit removed my tranny yet,but how do i adjust the pivot?and i did compare my old and new master.the old one was about 1/4 inch bigger.if i need to remove my tranny what is the easiest way to go about it?ive never removed a tranny and i do have a clutch as well for the car if ut needs it so i can do it all in one shot.

Thank you for all the help and i apoligize about any typos,im writing from my phone.

[NewZed]

If it's been sitting 20 years there could be rust on the gears, and/or the flywheel. The brass synchro rings ride on steel cones. You didn't mention reverse, which doesn't have a synchro.

 

Try putting it in first gear, then start it with the clutch pedal pushed down. If it's still up in the air, engage the parking brake so the wheels don't spin. After it starts you'll be able to tell where the engagement point is with the clutch pedal. That will tell you if the clutch is fully disengaging or not. Working the clutch will wear any rust off of the flywheel also.