RebekahsZ Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 Please post any pictures you have that show how you mounted a driveshaft hoop/loop in a Z-car. Most of my ideas make it too crowded to get the exhaust tucked up nice and high. It would be good if I did this project before building my exhaust if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelsonian Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 I am interested in this as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 Make the loop a "U" and bolt it to the top of the tunnel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 Make the loop a "U" and bolt it to the top of the tunnel. Pretty sure thats not NHRA legal, which I'm willing to bet thats what he's after, other than safety. "all cars in competition using open driveshafts must have a retainer loop 360 degrees of enclosure, 1/4-inch minimum thickness and 2 inches wide, or 7/8-inch x .065-inch welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within 6 inches of the front universal joint for support of the driveshaft in event of U-joint failure. Open drivelines passing any part of the driver’s body must be completely enclosed in 1/8- inch minimum thickness steel plate, securely mounted to the frame or frame structure. Driveshaft loop required on all cars running 13.99 (*8.59) or quicker and utilizing slicks; except vehicles running 11.49 (*7.35) seconds or slower equipped with street tires." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 Your post today got me thinking.... I bought a generic driveshaft loop with intentions of modifying it, but I'd never gotten around to it. SO thats what I did today. I bought this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g7900 and hacked it up. I added it to my existing tranny crossmember, and viola! Hope this gives you some insight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 Thanks! Do you think that long limber-looking design is rigid enough? I don't know.... There are two bosses on the tail-housing of the diff that a similar setup could be bolted too. But I don't know that I want to risk breaking my trans case. I'm betting a broken driveshaft is like having a tornado by the tail. For rules purposes are we supposed to have driveshaft loops for our 1/2-shafts too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 It's 2"x1/4" steel. When its welded, it will be plenty solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 Oh, I don't have anything for scale in your photo-it is heavier than I thought. Ill try to copy you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 I would think that would need reinforcement but maybe not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 I guess we'll find out if I ever break a driveshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Just put a circle in the bottom of the U Imentioned above. My point was to move the mounting of the loop off the floor pan and up into the tunned to give more room for the exhaust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Just put a circle in the bottom of the U Imentioned above. My point was to move the mounting of the loop off the floor pan and up into the tunned to give more room for the exhaust And a good point it is. I'll lose no clearance with this setup, which is crucial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 9, 2013 Author Share Posted January 9, 2013 I concur with both concepts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Plan is to use 1/2 of a standard driveshaft loop and attach it up inside the tunnel sideways with a flat plate taking the place of the other half. I don't see anything in the rule book that says the hoop has to be round, or attached to the car in any particular way. If you shop for driveshaft loops in the Summit catalog, the variety of style, shape and size is as diverse as the student body at McKinley High School. (I wonder how many folks on thie forum will admit to getting that joke)? Driveshaft is pretty close to driver side of tunnel leaving no room for hardware, so current plan is to only affix the loop on the passenger side of the tunnel with a heavy tab scabbed high in the tunnel and a second tab scabbed lower in the tunnel. Supposed to be ready for pick up tomorrow. If it isn't sleeting tomorrow, I'll post some pictures of the finished project. This plan should leave adequate room for a Y-pipe and a 3" single exhaust pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 This plan should leave adequate room for a Y-pipe and a 3" single exhaust pipe. boo-hisss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 (edited) Don't worry-at the track it will be dual dump tubes straight thru the front fenders via electric cutouts! Here's a picture that the fabricator sent me. The flat plate will be welded to the side of the tunnel. Edited January 25, 2013 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 26, 2013 Author Share Posted January 26, 2013 (edited) It is finished. Here's a few pictures of how we handled it. NHRA doesn't require a loop at the rear of the driveshaft, but I wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea. If I ever really do break a driveshaft, it would be nice if I didn't have to replace a bunch of sheetmetal in addition to having to get a new driveshaft. I don't always know how far to run with the "what-ifs." For now I'lll just try to do what the rule books say since most of those rules are based on bad experiences and proven over time. I'll pick up car tomorrow and try to finish installing droop limiter brackets and get straps on order before the weekend is done. In the first photo you can see the cracked paint where the driveshaft welds onto the yoke. Edited January 26, 2013 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi303 Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 As I understand it, the loop at the front is so the driveshaft doesn't drop down and the end dig into the surface like a vaulters pole, potentially lifting/unbalancing the car sufficient to case traction loss and spins/out-of-control situations where you can veer into other cars or the surrounding scenery. The rear breaking would just cause the driveshaft end to drop down, bounce, scrape and thrash the underside, but much less dangerous to handling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 That's right. I'm starting to try to plan on things breaking and trying to figure out how to limit collateral damage. I'm psycho about mocking things up 100 times before finalizing a plan and I ask other people questions beyond the point of being annoying. I'm hoping for good reliability this year. Pretty much going thru the car from top to bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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