SUNNY Z Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 THIS is a q45 axle. only one cup per axle with a mounting face, thus the need for 4 axles to do a conversion. I have an extra cup of that style that I'd part with btw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 Thanks all for the replies, as Sunny mentioned the stock axles are infact different from end to end. I was able to source a set of of CV cups at my local yard today. I will be reinstalling them to check for movement so i know how thick to make the new adapters. I am also interested in the idea of camber/alignment throwing these axles out of wack. I noticed that the rear wheels look like they are slightly pointing inwards.. is this even possible or are the flares just playing tricks on my eyes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 (edited) Thanks all for the replies, as Sunny mentioned the stock axles are infact different from end to end. I was able to source a set of of CV cups at my local yard today. I will be reinstalling them to check for movement so i know how thick to make the new adapters. I am also interested in the idea of camber/alignment throwing these axles out of wack. I noticed that the rear wheels look like they are slightly pointing inwards.. is this even possible or are the flares just playing tricks on my eyes? Two thing. Flares / body are playing tricks on you. Also, there is a slight amount of toe in on the rear wheels in all S30's. Do you want that CV cup? Edited January 8, 2013 by SUNNY Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 Two thing. Flares / body are playing tricks on you. Also, there is a slight amount of toe in on the rear wheels in all S30's. Do you want that CV cup? Ok thanks. No im fine i have two "new" ones i picked up from the junkyard today, thanks though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 CrayZ - I live in the Houston area and can help you if you need it. I'm not familiar with your VLSD/Q45 setup but very familiar with S30s including their suspensions. Take a look at the link in my signature for all the mods I've done to my S30. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 (edited) Just when i think i got it figured out i see this.. wtf? Got two like this (same height) This one is about 1/2" tall This one is about an inch tall Im assuming each axle gets a cup with the longer "bump stop" but which side of the axle gets the longer one and why is one 1/2" and the other 1"??? Edited January 8, 2013 by CrayZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 CrayZ - I live in the Houston area and can help you if you need it. I'm not familiar with your VLSD/Q45 setup but very familiar with S30s including their suspensions. Take a look at the link in my signature for all the mods I've done to my S30. I hope i can get this squared away by friday night.. If not i would love some assistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 (edited) And of course i did not pay attention to which one came out of which side Edited January 8, 2013 by CrayZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 (edited) Ok guys please correct me if im wrong. This is my interpretation of what was being asked of me. I jacked the car up high enough that the suspension is in full droop (tire completely off the ground) I then reinstalled the axle attaching the bearing cup to the wheel hub. I then fully compressed the shaft and measured the difference between the companion flange (dif) and the bearing cup that would sit against it. I got about 3/8"gap soooooim assuming that i need a 3/8" spacer? Edited January 8, 2013 by CrayZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 jake (xnke) helped me figure out what we think is the real problem. Previous owner as you can see in the recent pics tried to stop the axle from walking inside the cups by "extending" the bump stop inside the cup. Im going to cut them back down to what they should be, put them back together/re install them and find my gap, subtract 1/8" and get my spacers made.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 If you totally fill that gap you won't be able to get your axle in or out. There need to be some movement in the cv-just not too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 (edited) If you totally fill that gap you won't be able to get your axle in or out. There need to be some movement in the cv-just not too much. Yep, With the knobs shaved back down to spec I've calculated that my gap will be 7/8" I will have 3/4" thick spacers made leaving me 1/8" gap. From what I've been told this should be enough gap to allow the axle to articulate properly Edited January 8, 2013 by CrayZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 (edited) 1/8" is pretty tight, but you should still be able to get the axle out. I'd go for 3/16" to 1/4" personally. No sense in fixing the problem, and in turn making it harder to service than need be. Edited January 8, 2013 by SUNNY Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 (edited) 1/8" is pretty tight, but you should still be able to get the axle out. I'd go for 3/16" to 1/4" personally. No sense in fixing the problem, and in turn making it harder to service than need be. I can always mill down the thickness a bit. I'm going to crawl under there and get a more accurate measurement tonight. It's pretty wild to think that the axle being around only 1/2" to short could cause this problem. Edited January 8, 2013 by CrayZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 To imagine how this happens, look at the housing of the CV that you have been calling the cage (the cage is actually the part that of the axle that mounts on the splined axle shaft, that you snap the balls into). The housing is the part that has those long grooves in it that the balls ride in. In a perfect world, the balls would ride in the middle of the grooves. If you measure from middle, that only gives you, what, 3/4" of travel either direction? If your axle is too short, it hammers itself to death. If your axle is too long, it overextends and falls apart. But, there has to be some (axial) movement in the system because the axle needs to be length self adjusting. If the length is correct, these axles rock-if too long or too short they are maddening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 9, 2013 Author Share Posted January 9, 2013 (edited) Ok so I had the knobs shaved back down and the new gap measurements are as follows. .9100 thousands on the driver side and 1.000 on the passenger side. I'm going to hack off 200 thousands from each side and see how that works out. Edited January 9, 2013 by CrayZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 (edited) What side of town are you on? I am in the beginning stages of a LS conversion...... ( yes I sold off all of my L-series motors and turbos) I wanted to buy this car but you beat me to it...good to see it local. I will keep an eye on what you do as it will effect me directly. Good luck. Where did you pick up the parts? I am looking for a back half of at Q45 Edited January 9, 2013 by texis30O Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 9, 2013 Author Share Posted January 9, 2013 (edited) What side of town are you on? I am in the beginning stages of a LS conversion...... ( yes I sold off all of my L-series motors and turbos) I wanted to buy this car but you beat me to it...good to see it local. I will keep an eye on what you do as it will effect me directly. Good luck. Where did you pick up the parts? I am looking for a back half of at Q45 Cypress, your more than welcome to come by and take a look etc. I don't mind in helping you out. Hell I'd be learning just as much as you as I didn't do the swap. I know where a dif is for 200 bucks.. I just bought the axles off of it a couple days ago Edited January 9, 2013 by CrayZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 I want the whole back half with everything.... I need to do a full conversion and would like to pull something all together. I have thought about stopping by some of the places there off of Shepherd and 45/hardy... I just don't know how good they are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 9, 2013 Author Share Posted January 9, 2013 (edited) I want the whole back half with everything.... I need to do a full conversion and would like to pull something all together. I have thought about stopping by some of the places there off of Shepherd and 45/hardy... I just don't know how good they are I mean they have the whole rear end minus the axles.. What else would you need Besides the diff and axles? Edited January 9, 2013 by CrayZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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