Zmanj87 Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Just curious if that's ok with the car after it warms up its about 40-50lb idle but while its running it get's closer to 70-80lb.. I replaced the oil with a QT of the lucas and 4 Qts of Castrol gtx 10-30. I'm guessing the higher pressure is from the Lucas since how thick the stuff is?? More worried if the car will be ok to drive daily or does the Oil Pump be replaced or should I just stick with just 5qts standard oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78zstyle Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Why would you use oil stabilizer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 To be honest my dad uses it so that's why he said it's good for older cars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 (edited) Lucas oil stabilizer appears to just be a thickener...I have never found a real use for it. Do you have at least 10PSI at idle? And 10psi base+10psi for ever 1000RPM? If the answer is yes, then you don't need to do anything to the oil other than run a quality SL grade motor oil. Yes, the SL grade matters. Starting with SM, the EP additives that are required for use in flat-tappet cammed engines were removed. SM, SN, and any further grades (SO, SP, ect if the grading system continues this way) DO NOT provide adequate protection for the cam and lifters in the L-series engines. SL grade has pretty much the minimum amounts of these EP additives that will let an L live a long life, but SH grade would be (somewhat) preferred. (This is the API rating system, there are others in use, too) Edited February 10, 2013 by Xnke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 well at about 1000 rpm when I'm idling the gauge is at half while driving it the needle is at about 3/4 of the gauge. Oil I used was Castrol GTX 10-30 tho does anyone recommend using a different grade? I live in Orlando,FL in my newer car's I use 10-40 since it doesnt get that cold here. I was thinking of doing that for this car but I did research in the forms and everyone seem to say stick with just a 10-30. I would use a thinner oil tho the seals on this engine are 30+ years old and would think it would just leak =/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 I run 20W-50 all day and have no problems. If you have a stock pump, reading at half the gauge is a little excessive.My oil of choice is Valvoline VR1 Racing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 I run straight 40 weight in the summer, and straight 30 weight in the winter, as the temperature never dictates the need for Multi-Vis. Well over 100,000 miles on my 260, most of it at highway speeds with a 5 speed and 3.7 rear gear above 3,000 rpms. Look at your manual, single-vis IS acceptable and on the top when it comes to areas without a change in temperature. The Zinc Additives are far more important than the 'mileage saving' you get from Multi-Vis. This engine was designed around single weight oils, why switch if you don't see any advantages. Plus, it lets you run just about the cheapest oil on the rack... Single Vis oils just don't cost a lot. They don't "do" a lot to the oil to make it act like something it's not. Remember a 0W-50 is a 0 Weight oil made to act like a 50 weight when it gets hot. If it breaks down, your viscosity goes back to the base stock. Straight 40 is straight 40, straight 30 is straight 30. If it overheats, the viscosity starts dropping. Got straight weight synthetic, and you're covered to ridiculous temperatures....where the Babbitt melts out of the bearing journals! Multi-Vis... pfffft! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 Thanks for the reply, I'll try running a straight 40 tho I'm scared that it might leak everywhere since none of the seals have been replaced and I think there's close to 200000 on the motor.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Started with 225,000 on my 76, now more than 300K, same program. That one has a 3.9 and is set up to tow a trailer of some 800#! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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