palmer765s Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 (edited) Hello all, my names Shane i just joined this forum but was on zcar.com by the same name, and i couldent exactly get the awnsers i needed and everyone advised to come here so i did! My car is a S30 76 datsun 280z with 74k orignal miles all stock L28E Now the reason im here, when i bought the car the guy had it from 82 (im the third owner) but it had been sitting 4 years. So the day i went to buy it he told that he had it running to warm it up (the clutch was frozen so i couldent test drive it) but when i got there he explained to me that he had it running for a few mins while he was in the house and when he came back out it was shut off, he tried to start it agin but it would only idle for 2-5 seconds then die, When i got the car home i did a coupple thing to it to freshen it up and fix the clutch, changed the oil, filter, spark plugs, drained the tank and added 10 gallon of 93 + fuel injector cleaner, changed the fuel pump (he had a new one to go along with it) and changed the clutch,pressure plate, thowout bearing, slave cilinder, and master cilinder. So the problem its still doing the same thing from when i bought it (starts up and idles for 2-5 seconds then dies), i figured if it was like any other nissan (had a 89 nissan 240sx coupe with a ka24e) that if you MAF was bad you could unplug it and the car would still start and eather run like shit (rich as hell) or just idle for a few seconds and die, so i tried that and figured that the AFM was bad and ordered a remanufactured one. Well it came in the mail today and tried that but yet its still doing the same thing. Also i changed the boot from the throttle body to the AFM because there was a dry rot crack in it, and i check the intake mani and all hoses for any ail leaks thinking it might be sucking air and leaning it out causing it to die, but still found nothing.... So i plan on changing the fuel pressure regulator tomrow (the one on the fuel rail) had ordered one but never put it on. Also i have a new PCV valve for it never put it on yet eather, was wondering if that would have any thing to do with it ? (i wouldent imagine it would cause its for emissions) Does any one have any experince with these setups or has this happened to any one else ? i checked the voltage going to it and it all checks out ( dont know exactly what it should be getting but it seems about what it should be) Thank you all for looking just hoping to get it running right cause if i cant soon im just going to do a SR20DET swap into it with every thing from mckenny motorsports, As much as i would love to keep the origonal L28E if i cant get this thing figured out ill end up swaping it Oh and sorry if my spelling sucks i know it does just always has (got bashed on ZCAR.com for my spelling) UPDATE* i was messing with it a little bit last night trying to figure it out i could start it and it would do the same thing for about 5 times then it wouldent start at all but if i let it sit for 10 mins it would start then die agin But when i went out this morning to mess with it some more it wont start at all now its not even turning the motor over i had my battery charger on it on 40amp charge making the voltage to 14 and around 10 when trying to start and still wont turn the motor over ? any advice on this now ? Edited February 22, 2013 by palmer765s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Hot wire the fuel pump for a short test. You might be losing power to the fuel pump. The safeties are bypassed at Start. On the 76, with the AFM fuel pump contacts, typically if it starts then dies after a few seconds, it's because the contacts aren't making contact. They need air passing through the AFM to stay closed. The fuel pump only comes on at Start or when the key is On and the AFM contacts are closed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zjoel Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 I had a similar problem on my 280z years ago. It would start up and then die after a few second. It ended up being a round resistor type sensor inside the dashboard around the steering column. I honestly cant remeber what it was called, but i changed mt fuel pump, changed a bunch of stuff and t dint fix the problem until i changed that sensor(or resistor, not sure what it was) out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Did you install a new fuel filter up front close to the radiator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palmer765s Posted March 29, 2013 Author Share Posted March 29, 2013 Ok guys heres an update. Bought a new AFM and changed that out still nothing.. Bought a used ECU off ebay with the same vin as mine and nothing changes yett.. Heres the weird part i got a ECU out of a 82 280ZX NA L28 and it actualy runs But it runs really rough smokes ALOT! It does stay running with the 280zx ECU untill i shut it off but like i said runs realy rough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Smoke , too rich or burning oil ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osirus9 Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 If swapping the ECU allowed it to run I'd say you're probably looking at an electrical problem. Start by checking all the voltages to the ECU under the dash and comparing them to the FSM, that should help you narrow it down to a bad sensor. It could also easily be fuel related, have you changed the fuel filter and checked the fuel pressure? Could also be a really big vacuum leak, if the idle is super rough when you actually get it to idle. Try replacing the vacuum hoses... Honestly it could be a lot of things, or a combination of things. Hope you get it figured out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 Measure fuel pressure and check your cooant temperature circuit resistance at the ECU connector - sqwawk, cracker... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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