mditt8671 Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 I found a parts car semi-locally where I can get all the parts I need for an R200 swap into my series 1 240Z. If I pull it myself, I can get it all for $250. Is that a good deal taking into account my labor? It seems to be in the ballpark for the parts alone. Never done this before so I don't know if I'll be on my back for 2 hours or 12 hours. This is all out of a 1977 280Z. 1. Mustache bar 2. Companion flange 3. Rear cover 4. Side stub shafts 5. Driveshaft 6. Curved transverse link 7. R200 diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rejracer Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Here are the going rates in CA Pick n pull. mustach bar 30 Stub axles + companion flanges: 50 Diff& rear cover 75 Transverse link: 5.00 Driveshaft: 30 Private party prices can be significantly higher or lower. If the diff is in good shape, your not overpaying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mditt8671 Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 Thanks! It's an hour's drive for me, maybe I'll offer $200 and see if he'll bite. Does anyone know for sure if I need any special tools besides wrenches, ratchets, etc. to remove all this stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 (edited) If I was offered $200 on a counter offer, you would have wasted an hour's drive plus the gas. And when you came back at $250, it would then be $300... Note he said CALIFORNIA PRICES, not Pennsylvania Prices. You pay a penalty for living where you do (and rightly so...) If you expect California Prices, factor in SHIPPING and time, possibly LABOR to pull them. The price for $250 for ALL THE PARTS for the conversion is a STEAL. The differential alone sells for that much. If you're not serious about wanting the parts, you shouldn't waste the sellers time or your own. I know I know "nothing ventured nothing gained".... And remember the first two lines of this post. What goes for you, is fair for him as well. DON'T COMPLAIN if that is the response you get. It's just as valid as you trying to skin the guy for $50. Dropping it all out as an assembly is FAST. Half hour maybe. The longest thing is removing the halfshaft bolts. Once those 8 are done, the moustache bar, front mount come free and it DROPS, give a tug, the driveshaft pulls out of the tranny and drag it to the truck. I have done this in 5 minutes on cars where someone has taken the axle shafts... Edited February 28, 2013 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 An alternative is to ask if you can get both rear suspension corners and everything offered above for $300. It will make pulling the diff and related compnents a lot easier and the seller gets an extra $50. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 And that assembly John C talks about means six more bolts and the cutting of a couple of flexible brake lines to drop it as an assembly. But those aren't on your back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mditt8671 Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 (edited) Not really trying to skin the guy, it's a Craigslist ad and he said "$250 OBO" when I inquired about it. Except for the fact this is PA and not CA and there's not as many parts cars here, my labor would be the same to pull it (except it's below 30 degrees here). I am serious about getting these parts, it's a general rule that craigslist ads are negotiable. So would the additional rear suspension parts be a positive addition I could use, or is it just a faster/easier way to get the parts off the car? I am planning on upgrading my suspension in the future but haven't gotten that far in my planning yet. EDIT: Seems like the 280 suspension won't do me any good on the 240z... Edited February 28, 2013 by mditt8671 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Yes and no. In stock condition the rear struts are too tall. But if you ever shorten the strut tubes the 280Z units will work just fine in a 240Z. You'll also get the stronger 280Z stub axles and companion flanges, the taller 280Z upper insulator, a spare set of rear brake parts, and stronger lower control arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mditt8671 Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 This is a visual representation of everything I need for the conversion (minus the optional suspension), correct? This is what you were talking about regarding pulling out the whole assembly... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rejracer Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 For a series 1 conversion to R200 you need the following: 1. R200 diff 2. Mustache bar. 3. Rear transverse link (curved style). 4. Longer drivehaft That's it! You don't need: The front transverse link (the part the diff isolator mounts to.). It might be a good idea to get it as it's thicker metal and has a larger diameter cutout for exhaust. The rear vertical supports shown behind the diff in the pics above. Tony is right about the location being key. Tony also lives in So cal and I am in Norcal. Prices are even cheaper up here vs down there. I get a lot of parts cheap in opportunistic mode. I create a list of what I want and plug in the details into a craigslist crawler. You'd be surprised how many people have things priced at "come get it out of my garage". And then there are others that want top dollar for parts that are scrap. Be reasonable, its far more important to have fellow enthusiasts than people who get out of the game because of the inconsiderate transactions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Be reasonable, its far more important to have fellow enthusiasts than people who get out of the game because of the inconsiderate transactions. I hoarde parts because I don't want to deal with selling them. So I'm guilty of the second part...or am described by it I guess... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 I hoarde parts because I don't want to deal with selling them. So I'm guilty of the second part...or am described by it I guess... I've said it once but ill say it again,please leave me in you will!!!!!! I have a few boxes in my garage marked with $$$.I told my wife to make sure she ebays those if I die unexpectedly. In your case I'm sure it's, " do you see that sea container over there......" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 If you are short on money and long on time-pull it yourself. If you are long on money and short on time, pay $50 to have them pull it. I recommend that you get the driveshaft (there are a bunch of different rear flanges out there). The trouble with pulling these parts is: you can't get a 14mm socket on the axle bolts or the driveshaft bolts, so if they are rusty, you may round them off with an open-end wrench and waste a bunch of time cussing before you figure out how to cut them off. But, the axle nuts and bolts are no longer available thru Nissan, so try not to break them. A dremel tool works to cut them if you have access to electricity, but save them if you can. The mustache bar drops straight down. I would drop the uprights to make removal easier, but you don't need to take that part home. The mustache bar goes behind the uprights on a R200 and in front of the uprights on a R180 (or vice versa), so just drop the uprights-it is just 4 bolts. You may need a piece of wood and a deadblow hammer if there is any rust between any of the axle or driveshaft flanges.. Finally, be careful how you support the car. I once had my front jackstands located behind the engine. When I dropped my rear suspension, the loss of weight at the back of the car and the poor placement of the jackstands allowed the front of the car to drop and the rear to lift-I almost killed myself, so position your jackstands to account for the loss of weight on the back of the car. Grab any swaybars while you are out there, too. Rusted hardware is your enemy. The prices you list are fair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 (edited) Actually, yes...that is it exactly JSM... In the divorce there was discussions about valuation. No lie, I called a SCRAP GUY, got crane rental rates, and got a "fire sale scrap value" for everything in the back yard. Someone was not happy with that tactic...but knew me for 31 years, and knew if I went to THAT trouble...I WOULD do it! And that would mean someone owed someon some money....and it war'nt me! Edited March 8, 2013 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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