Identifying the different q45 differentials

[CrayZ]

The front of my q45 diff is leaking. I've identified the culprit as the pinon seal. I called te dealer up to order a new seal and he is telling me there is 3 different seals for that diff. Does anyone know a quick way to ID the different model diff's? I purchased the car with the diff installed and have no idea exactly which one it is. From what I've been told it came from a 95'

 

Thanks in advance

[CrayZ]

Anyone?

[NewZed]

Are the three different seals by year?  Different seals for different years?  I would find out more about the seals.  Elimination might leave you with the right one. 

 

Compare what you have to what's shown in the PD chapter of the Q45 FSM's.  I think that one of the differences might be the ABS rings.

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Q45/

[CrayZ]

So i decided to drop the Diff to see what i had going on. So far the previous owner has told me that the DIfferential came from a 1995 Q45 and up untill about 20min ago i assumed that the q45's came with the r230.. Well i have been doing some research and it appears they came with a VLSD shornt nose r200?? My part number on top of the diff is as follows: 38311 43M10 The ratio on the back of the ring gear reads 46:13 and it appears that someone had marked 230 on the ring gear in paint pen from the factory.

 

 

 

 

 

And then i see this which is a short nose "r200" and it looks exactly the same as mine..

 

http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/mm_gallery.php?album=2008+March+Proto+Q45+R200+Mounting+Proven+Brian+G%2F&pic=DSCN1974.JPG

 

 

 

http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/mm_gallery.php?album=2008+March+Proto+Q45+R200+Mounting+Proven+Brian+G%2F&pic=DSCN1976.JPG

 

 

 

 

Im confused..What the HELL is this thing? I need to order the front pinon seal to keep it from leaking as well as a new rear cover bolt/gasket and now a damn cover becuase i broke a tab off upon removable. I cant do any of that untill i find out what exactly this thing is.

Edited April 26, 2013 by CrayZ

[NewZed]

Edit (this might be wrong - It's a short nose R200).  R200V is shown in the specifications at the end of the PD chapter.  Ratio of 3.538 by your tooth count, is correct for 1995.  They went to 3.692 in 1997.

 

Edit - actually I can't say for sure that it's a short nose R200.  I have a shortnose R200V from a J30 and it doesn't have the finned cover.  Haven;t looked at recently

 

There's pictures all over the internet if you Google "R230 viscous" or "R200 viscous".  Many links back to Hybridz.  Good luck.

Edited April 26, 2013 by NewZed

[CrayZ]

I read through the PDF's good info in there.

[CrayZ]

Welp I measured the ring pinon and it was 7/78.. R200 it is

[CrayZ]

Can anyone educate me on these vlsd diff's? I've been reading alot about the VLSD and I haven't heard anything good. The main thing the scares me is that someone said they are a sealed unit and "non serviceable" there was talk of them using two different fluids. My front pinon seal was leaking, hince why I removed it in the first place. I planned to just swap the seal, fill it back up with diff fluid and call it a day. Have I missed anything here?

 

The last thing I want to do is put all this shit back together and run into issues. Since I have it out is there anything I can do to make it stronger/better?

[m1ghtymaxXx]

Can anyone educate me on these vlsd diff's? I've been reading alot about the VLSD and I haven't heard anything good. The main thing the scares me is that someone said they are a sealed unit and "non serviceable" there was talk of them using two different fluids. My front pinon seal was leaking, hince why I removed it in the first place. I planned to just swap the seal, fill it back up with diff fluid and call it a day. Have I missed anything here?

 

The last thing I want to do is put all this shit back together and run into issues. Since I have it out is there anything I can do to make it stronger/better?

 

The non-serviceable sealed part would be referring to the viscous coupling and not the gear oil. You can treat it like any other diff, except when the viscous coupling goes, it would have to be replaced.

[CrayZ]

The non-serviceable sealed part would be referring to the viscous coupling and not the gear oil. You can treat it like any other diff, except when the viscous coupling goes, it would have to be replaced.

Thank you

[CrayZ]

Now if I can find out if the front pinon seal can be changed without ripping the guts out of the back of the diff i can start to plan my attach. The seals I've seen dont look like they drop in from the front of the housing.. It looks to me like the whole thing has to be taken apart. I can't find anyone that has had to change this seal to tell me one way or another.

Edited May 2, 2013 by CrayZ

[CrayZ]

This seal sits in between pinon shaft and housing

 

 

 

The driveshaft companion flange slides over the shaft and fits on to the teeth. The seal actually seals around the companion flange shaft

 

 

this is how the factory seal looked

 

 

 

This is how the seals in the fisch, dealer info yada yada looked

 

 

Am i missing something here? for the life of me i cant seem to find a seal that even closely resembles the one i pulled out. The people who i have talked to tell me that the seal can be installed with out taking the pinon out of the housing but none of the part numbers for the seals look anything close to what i need.

 

The part number that both nissan and infinity are giving me are 38189-n3112 and 38189-y081

Edited May 2, 2013 by CrayZ

[NewZed]

Kind of looks like you removed a piece of the original seal, the inner seal, and the rest has torn off.  Maybe someone has had your diff apart before.  Do they have the same diameter inside the sealing surface, where the "spring" is?

 

The seal replacement procedure is described on PD-9.  Looks like it's meant for the big seal, not the tiny piece you have.    A large hammer and a tool are shown.

 

Here's a blow-up of the 95 300ZX viscous diff, if it helps.

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/300zx-parts-z32-1990-1996/genuine-nissan-parts/power-train/380-rear-final-drive/-c-882_883_953_974.html

Edited May 2, 2013 by NewZed

[CrayZ]

Kind of looks like you removed a piece of the original seal, the inner seal, and the rest has torn off.  Maybe someone has had your diff apart before.  Do they have the same diameter inside the sealing surface, where the "spring" is?

 

The seal replacement procedure is described on PD-9.  Looks like it's meant for the big seal, not the tiny piece you have.    A large hammer and a tool are shown.

 

Here's a blow-up of the 95 300ZX viscous diff, if it helps.

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/300zx-parts-z32-1990-1996/genuine-nissan-parts/power-train/380-rear-final-drive/-c-882_883_953_974.html

 

 

 

 

Yes they are the same but there are multiple seals with the same diameter. The main question i have is if the seal is put on from inside the housing or the outside.

Edited May 3, 2013 by CrayZ

[NewZed]

Look at PD-9.  Outside.  From under the car if you want to do it exactly by the FSM procedure.  Making little stars with your hammer and tool.  The outer portion of the new seal pounds in to that rusty recess in your picture (looks like yours has been missing for a while, that's going to need some cleaning), then the pinon flange slips inside when you put it back together.  The moving surface seal is around the flange, the static portion fits inside the diff housing.

 

That's my take on it.  Most of the seals on the driveline, even the rear crankshaft seal in the engine, pound in from the outside.

[CrayZ]

Look at PD-9.  Outside.  From under the car if you want to do it exactly by the FSM procedure.  Making little stars with your hammer and tool.  The outer portion of the new seal pounds in to that rusty recess in your picture (looks like yours has been missing for a while, that's going to need some cleaning), then the pinon flange slips inside when you put it back together.  The moving surface seal is around the flange, the static portion fits inside the diff housing.

 

That's my take on it.  Most of the seals on the driveline, even the rear crankshaft seal in the engine, pound in from the outside.

 

 

 

 

The thing that confuses me is how the back of the seal is open and "cupped" when i pulled the original seal the spring portion of the seal was inside of the housing where the lip portion was inside the companion flange cavity "outside of the housing". This is impossible with this style seal as the "cupped" part is flush with the inner seal. Is the seal suppose to flatten out if you beat it into place? how could i get the spring inside of the housing and keep the rest of it in the cavity with this style seal

 

Edited May 3, 2013 by CrayZ

[NewZed]

I'm just guessing based on how other seals work, and the FSM and other drawings.  I usually just look at things like that and try to figure out what should be, not so much about how they ended up.  Somebody previous could have installed the wrong seal when they changed pinion flanges and made a mess of it.

 

That's all I have.  Looks like fun, good luck.

[CrayZ]

I'm just guessing based on how other seals work, and the FSM and other drawings.  I usually just look at things like that and try to figure out what should be, not so much about how they ended up.  Somebody previous could have installed the wrong seal when they changed pinion flanges and made a mess of it.

 

That's all I have.  Looks like fun, good luck.

Well I do appreciate the help newzed! You have at least awnsered one of my questions. I'm going to order "the other seal" and work through process of elimination.