J240ZTurbo Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 Ok guys, like many of you I just did my alternator upgrade on my stock 76 280z for a new 280zx alternator along with voltage regulator removal and wire solder..here is my question I know on new cars to see if the alternator is working , you removed one of the batt + or - and the cars stays running, so I did the same thing on my car and as soon I removed one of these the car turned off, is it normal on these old all cars??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 Actually that's a good way to damage an alternator. The current surge can cause damage. But, since it's been done, that would be an indication that your alternator is not generating curremt or it's wired wrong. It's not normal. The better way to test is with a voltmeter. Measure at idle and at higher RPM. Typically a good alternator will generate 14 volts +/- ~0.2. Battery voltage is 12.6, so above 12.6 is what the alternator is putting out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4.6StangRage Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Plus your alternator need the signal from the battery to work anyways (field signal) and yes I dont recommend it either, back EMF is not good on the diodes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattb3562 Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Is the charge light on the dash working? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J240ZTurbo Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 Yes, it lights up after a minute or two at idle... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motomanmike Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 (edited) NewZed is dead on about removing the cable. That is a really easy way to damage an alternator new or old. Get a cheap voltmeter and probe around. I would be willing to bet you have an activation issue. Take a voltmeter. Test for 12v at the main charge battery stud on the back of the alternator. It should read 12.6 volts, or battery voltage. Key off test the T plug. The top should have 12v with key OFF. The bottom should be nothing no reading. Now turn the key ON, take a reading at the bottom of the plug it should read 12v with key on.. This is all that is needed for these alternators to work. A main battery wire, 2 other points of power. one switched one constant. If either one doesn't the alternator will not activate and charge. Its possible it would charge without a sense wire but most the time you would know it because it would overcharge and you'd smell the battery bubbling Good luck. Edited May 1, 2013 by motomanmike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J240ZTurbo Posted May 4, 2013 Author Share Posted May 4, 2013 Guys this is exactly what I did, nothing different so I really don't know what's wrong let me know.. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motomanmike Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Voltmeter check it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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