BlueStag Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Guys, I hold out no hope for this, but: My L6 is in a Triumph Stag, with a 4sp auto box. Of late I've hankered a 5sp manual. But to set up my swap, I had moved the pedal box over to the left by over an inch. The air cleaners simply would not come off if the brake master cylinder was in its as-built placement, but there is no room for a clutch unless I put it back. Other air cleaners are under consideration. Any chance of finding some manifolds that would be an inch shorter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh280z Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Cut up the ones you have and get someone to do the weld work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z240 Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Not so simple to cut the manifold to shorten. None of the runners are straight. Removing an inch leaves nothing that lines up when it goes back together. Maybe close to the head there is "enough" straight-ish that leaves enough meat in the runner to grind out what doesn't quite match up from the inside. Maybe 80% there and the rest by thinning the carb flange? Rest by thinning the heat insulator block? Yeah, heck, there's plenty for that if you take from all three places. Take a bit off the back of the carb too! Go for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh280z Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 True they are curved, but I think they have enough meat to cut out and smooth so you could have at least some more clearance than you have currently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Do you have the THICK SU-to-Manifold spacers, or the THIN ones (1/2" difference there) Maybe mill .250 off the mounting flange at the head, and another .250" off at the SU Mounting side, along with the thn spacers, and you got your inch... No welding or cutting f manifold runners needed. Ah....haaaaaaa! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueStag Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 Do you have the THICK SU-to-Manifold spacers, or the THIN ones (1/2" difference there) Maybe mill .250 off the mounting flange at the head, and another .250" off at the SU Mounting side, along with the thn spacers, and you got your inch... No welding or cutting f manifold runners needed. Ah....haaaaaaa I have two spacers per, they combine to about 3/8ths of an inch. I need to gain nearly two inches. I will be pulling out the spacers and replacing with two gaskets each. I don't see much to be gained from milling the mounting at the carb side, I still need meat to run studs or bolts into. And there are vacuum ports there. As for milling at the other end of the manifold, the intake manifolds share studs with the exhaust manifold, along with thick mill washers. The manifolds need to be the same thickness to make that work. There is currently about 1/3/4" clearance between the stock air box and the brake master. The difficulty is that to get the outer part of the box off the back plate of the box is that one must move over the air horns, which I am not going to do without. I have a SORT of solution that I am trying. Instead of the bolts on the far ends of the rig holding the back plate to the carbs, I have run in short dowels to just act as alignment points. And I have locked the wing bolts to the clever nut/bolt that lives inside the such that as I turn the wing nuts, they turn in the carb. Thus I can lift the whole box out without actually moving it away from the carbs by more than a small fraction of an inch. I am not sure that I am getting a great seal at the airbox/carb meeting. And one cannot rely on running a steel bolt into and out of aluminum repeatedly, I'll need to fit some helicoils. If I am going to go this route, I am inclined to cut up the original air box such that it only fits over the air filter. I want to keep the two ports that suck the fumes out of the engine block, but the rest of it I would blank off. I need to gain nearly 2" back to fit a brake and clutch pedal, to say nothing of having no room at this point for a clutch master cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilovemyzed Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Would triple webers with stubby horns make up the difference in inches? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skirkland1980 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 "I need to gain nearly two inches" ....lol sorry..couldn't resist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Well it STARTED as an inch, which I got handily...the flange thickness mismatch was covered enough I won't repeat it. 0.250" on each mating face is not undoable by a long shot. 2" is a different matter. Ever look into the two barrel down draught Hitachi manifolds? Too bad it's not EFI, that makes a stubby intake manifold a piece of cake! I think they are cutting 4"+ out of those runners, no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.