palmer765s Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 ok guys iv tried this on the s30 chassis page didn't really get any helpful answers so I thought id throw it up on this page. well it all started out when I bought the car, it sat for 6 years until I came along. owner said low miles and ran when parked so I went to check it out. when I got there he had told me he had it running for it to warm up ( it was mid January at the time), he went into the house for a min came back out to it and it was off. started it back up and idles for a few seconds then dies and does not respond to throttle. so I thought I was just some thing with the fuel system replaced fpr, fuel pump, afm, inline baffle (right after the pump). and still have nothing to show, so I took it to a very experienced garage and they ran thought the FSM trouble shoot on it and told me it was the ECM so I order a reman replacement and didn't fix any thing. one day out cruising back roads I stumble across a 82 280zx rotted to the ground talked to the owner and convinced him to sell me the ecu. got it went home put it in and now it actualy stays idling but still dosent respond to any type of throttle and after about 10 seconds the rpm's start to increase by its self and continue to do so until I kill the motor. please some one tell me they know what would fix it, but I did figure out on both the correct ecu's (a11-600) I can keep the motor running on starting fluid and it will respond to throttle but once your stop spraying it dies. HELP ! please and thank you ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 So tell me what exactly the car is doing now , only run with starting fluid ? Got a little confused with your infor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Have you tested the injectors? What do the spark plugs look like? How is the ignition coil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palmer765s Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 spark plugs wires cap rotor button all brand new and properly gapped along with new ignitor cap. and right now I have the 82 ecu in it just so I can move it some what and its only idling fine for a few seconds then increases in rpm and dies at any throttle response. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 At what RPM when it idles before it increases and how high will it go ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palmer765s Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 Well my tach doesn't work so just from hearing it (open header) best guess is little higher then idle,just above 1k then starts picking up rpms and keeps rising till I kill it I think about the farthest its gone is about 4.5-5k before I shut it down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palmer765s Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 OK so I just threw on of the correct ECU's in and it idles fine but it still doesn't respond to any type of throttle (dies at any touch of the throttle and come back once I let go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Check your TPS to make sure it's adjusted correctly . Assuming you already checked fuel pressure since you replaced everything but the filter . I'd also check the AFM flap to see if it responds with throttle . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palmer765s Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 In did replace the filter too forgot to mention that but I was messing with the flap and it does actualy rev the motor but I don't have the right kind of boot on it to have a good seal to the throttle body so I'm thinking that's my problem going to see if I can't get a good seal from some advance auto intake stuff and hopefully get my car going Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Any kind of air leak down stream from AFM will prevent it starting or running right , unmetered air . Try to tape it up REALLY good to see if it runs any better . Good luck . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palmer765s Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 OK so now that I got a good seal from the AFM to the throttle body I have to use the throttle to start and it doesn't run without me revving it and its insainly rich (huge clouds of smoke) the AFM is brand new guy I'm wondering if the tps could be causing this ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Did you mess with the AFM adjustment ? Check your TPS per FSM , it's just a on/off switch . Vac. hose hooked ( correctly ) up at FPR ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palmer765s Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 (edited) Fornafm adjustment you mean the big flat head screw on the bottom side of it ? Then years I messed with it a bit. The fpr is correct and hose seems to be fine I'm going to have to check the tips hopefully that is all it is Edited May 12, 2013 by palmer765s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Check FSM for proper adjustment on TPS and AFM . That big fat flat head screw is your A/F mixture adjustment . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palmer765s Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 alright so im guessing that taking the screw out would make it lean and in would richen it ? or do I have it backwards ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iDev Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 I believe taking the screw out would richen the mixture and closing it off would lean it out. I believe that is a bypass for air to go in during idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Backing it out lets more past the AFM vane. Making the mixture leaner because the AFM vane doesn't open as far. But the effect is tiny, it's main purpose is to adjust the mixture at idle. Adjusting it won't fix this - "insainly rich (huge clouds of smoke)". That's more likely the coolant temperature circuit or fuel pressure. If you have an ohm-meter you can learn a lot by running through the FSM tests at the ECU connector. TPS adjustment is in the FSM also, and can also be checked at the ECI connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palmer765s Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 Well I already ran through the entire pin out tests and the only 3 things that didn't check out was test #3 for Air regulator circuit, test #1 air regulator and fuel pump, test #1 fuel pump relay circuit every thing else came back perfect so is it possible that the air regulator could be causing my problems ? Oh and I did mess with the tps sensor (running unplugged and plugged) and if seems to respond better at idle and throttle with it unplugged. Could this mean its bad even if the pinout tests were fine ? Twisted the a/f screw on the AFM out a lot (was about a 1/4 inch in and now the richness have gone down alot but its still smoking pretty decently. Must say thank you all for getting me thus far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Well I already ran through the entire pin out tests Did you measure resistance at the ECU or just continuity? We always direct people to the FSM but the reality is that even the FSM tests aren't very thorough. They're just a starting place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palmer765s Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 some resistance but mainly continuity I did find a link from google back to here explaining how to adjust the TPS sensor if you think its jumping from idle to WOT im going to try and get it off pop it open and see how close the pins are to eachother and see if moving them out a little bit helps or not if now im just going to try throwing a new TPS and Air Regulator at it and hope it fixes it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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