Guest Anonymous Posted January 23, 2002 Share Posted January 23, 2002 Hey All First time posting on this board but I've been watching for awhile! Great stuff, good to see a lot of open minded people when it comes to modifying. But my question is about an L28 with SUs I'm about to put in my '74 260z. I've been told that the max hp I could squeeze out of it with the SUs is 210hp. Anybody know first hand that you can get more power then that and maybe the best way to go about doing so? Cheers guys Will - Arch - www.ZeroUnited.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 23, 2002 Share Posted January 23, 2002 yep shure do get a L28E EFI sys :electronic fuel injection: and 210 is a easy wall to brake down.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted January 23, 2002 Share Posted January 23, 2002 It's obvious to me you can get more than that. Ol' 12 second Norm is putting a minimum of 230 to the ground with his L28 and dual SUs. What's that, 250+ at the flywheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted January 23, 2002 Share Posted January 23, 2002 First of all.. the N/A L motor is tough to make big HP. I wouldnt touch the stock FI system. The airflow is a monster restriction and the fuel maps dont support big cams too well. I would say you would be happy with 210hp off of that motor though. It would be pretty streetable and a pleasure to drive. Norms got some wild gearing, and some serious time into his engine. his hogged out cyl. head is helping too id bet. Search for his name if you want to find out what he has done. If anything, use him for reference. He helped me out ALOT with my old N/A motor. Evan.... PS the early gen su carbs rule. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted January 23, 2002 Share Posted January 23, 2002 Evan is correct. My L28 FI motor ran into a wall at about 4800RPMs. The intake SUX. The TB sux, and the AF Meter...SUX. That said, I was able to get 240+ Dyno'ed flywheel HP. with a HUGE schneider cam, large AZ Car valves and some other tricks of the trade. I personally wouldn't go this route. If you want big HP, do the turbo setup and go from there, adding some extruding to the intake and exhaust manifolds, the right head and cam combo, and aftermarket programable FI. That is truly THE way to go when making BIG HP with an L6. My $.02! Mike Kelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 23, 2002 Share Posted January 23, 2002 Awesome, thanks heap for that guys.. Yeah, I would've loved to go efi, but i'd then need to go an aftermarket computer.. and a decent one to suit any further enhancements made to the car.. and that alone bumps the price up a couple thousand! I think 200hp should be enough, as the zed is such a great cruising car, I wouldn't want to loose that by getting bad fuel efficiency or something that burns up the wheels all the time, hehe... tho it would be fun... So yeah, thanks again for your help, I've decided to go ahead with the L28, i'll keep you all posted on how things go! Cheers Will - Arch - www.ZeroUnited.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 24, 2002 Share Posted January 24, 2002 In February I'll let you know what my N/A 3.0L makes after it finishes on Sunbelt's dyno. I think you will all be pleasantly surprised by the horsepower and torque from a motor that redlines under 7,500 rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DATTO Posted January 24, 2002 Share Posted January 24, 2002 takes a lot of money and time to build a 200hp su motor. i got my dual su motor to 200hp at the wheels but took a lot of money and time to build it...i went with the nismo stroker with 100 overbore and e31 head with stiffer valve springs shootpeend l28 crank, knife-edge cut, and counter weighted. heat treated block titanium sleeved, mild cam, light flywheel and balanced and blueprinted...engines revs great...took the car past 9k rpms once without blowing it, got lucky..i dont recommend going that high. but i agree putting the turbo is an easier way to get good hp but if you want to build an n/a car...do it...its a great learning experience. see yah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 24, 2002 Share Posted January 24, 2002 An SU L28 is a great engine for a 240-260Z. It's very streetable and can make decent power. Gas mileage is also quite acceptable and it's easy as heck to work on. Besides with the lightweight chassis of the 240Z and 260Z to some extent means that 200+hp and some close-ratio gearing can make for a great driver. You seriously don't need more power unless you have different intentions. 200+hp and proper gearing should get you down to the mid-upper 6sec. 0-60. If that's not enough, then you need to spend more money and look at some drivetrain alternatives (i.e. V8, turbo, etc...) Of course, there is a limit. And, while it is possible to squeeze more power out of a N/A L28, it becomes more and more unstreetable. Just as FYI, the BRE Datsun 510 that Morton drove at the Monterey Historics this past year was powered by a Rebello L18 which produced 215hp. But, this thing revved to 8500rpm and made mostly peak power up there. Not exactly daily driveable in my book. That said, here are a few secrets for some decent steet power out of a SU L28: 1) Increase the compression. The stock CR is lousy. Bump it up to 9.7-10.0 and you'll be much happier. 2) Head work. There is a lot of power to be had here. An N42 or E88 head with big valves are the best choices. 3) Cam. The stock cam for a 280Z is for FI and the stock 240Z cam, while better is still made with emissions in mind. Be careful not to go too aggressive though. 4) Exhaust. A nice 2.25" provides for decent sound and power. You can get a 2.5" but it's a bit overkill for more of a daily street engine. Headers are hit/miss, but if you do everything else right, a nice set of Nismo headers will round out the sound and power. Of course make sure they are insulated with ceramic coatings or wrap to reduce heat soak in the carbs. 5) Ignition. Rebuild the distributor and get a non-points ignition installed. I personally prefer the pertronix igniter as it fits directly under the stock distributor cap, only has two wires (+12V & GND) and is totally maintenance free. I've had mine installed for the last 5 years with not a single problem. 6) Get a 280ZX close ratio trans and 4.11 diff. This will drastically improve your acceleration and provides a nice short gear spacing. The 280ZX with 4.11 won't adversely affect your 65mph cruising rpm as it should keep you ~3000rpm which is just ever so slightly higher than a stock 4spd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Baldwin Posted January 24, 2002 Share Posted January 24, 2002 I made 189 lb-ft at 3500 at the rear wheels on the dyno last year. Power was on its way to at least 190rw, looking at the curve, but the engine developed a miss above 4800 rpm. After I invested in an MSD6AL, I discovered that the problem had been a busted spark plug. Will dyno again this spring, possibly w/ higher compression and some minor port-matching done. The motor: L28, LD28 crank, L24 rods, KA24E pistons, 2mm head gasket, N42 head, 10.14:1 CR, 290/.503" cam, 2" SU carbs w/ N36 intake manifolds hogged out to match, TWM air horns w/ ITG filters. It's got about 20,000 street miles and upwards of 30 track days on it. Was built in '94-'95 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest norm[T12SDSUD] Posted January 27, 2002 Share Posted January 27, 2002 Hey all, just wanted to note that my car should be making 225 HP at the Flywheel and not at the rear wheels. Wth the increase in CR to 11.6:1 I may be up to 235 HP at the flywheel, but I'll have to make some drag runs to see if my mph increases the appropriate amount. LAter,norm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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