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Yet another rear drum to disk conversion option!


Nigel

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If I could chime in, think the Hawk HP+ would fit the bill.  I run them both street & track on mine and [other than dust] am happy with their performance. Readily available and not terribly expensive.  http://www.raceshopper.com/ is where I usually order mine [they're just the next big city over from me, about 90 miles].  If you need order and send to me and I could then ship to you if they won't ship international.

PM me...

Nigel - Can you recommend me some brake pads please, I'm finding it rather hard to find ones in the UK, I've got some cheap pads in there at the moment, I'll be driving it again in less than a week and I want to change to better pads first. All the normal performance brands I'd normally use don't seem to do pads for these callipers (you can't get Mustangs in the UK).

 

 

The only ones I have seen are EBC Yellowstuff pads which are better than what I have but I was hoping for something better, I need a high performance pad that can also be used on the road and from cold. Perhaps America has something to offer.

 

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Hopefully now that Christmas is over, funds will start to free up for car parts again and we can get the remaining people needed  :icon7:

 

Nigel sign me up for a kit with a centering ring.

 

Does it matter which front brake caliper you are using, ie Stock, Toyota S12, Toyota S12/W with Vented Rotors?  I know that the proportioning valve takes care of the bias but I was curious if you had a recommended setup.

 

Thanks

Levi

 

1. 280zcar (w/ centering ring)

2. takayuki (w/ centering ring)

3. KyleG (w/ centering ring)

4. Ryan Merrill (w/ centering ring)

5. calpoly-z (w/ centering ring)

6. pchermit (w/ centering ring)

7.

8.

9.

10.

 

With a proportioning valve and the right pad combination, these rear brakes should be suitable with most front brake options. I had the 4 cylinder Toyota 4-Runner front calipers (same piston sizes as 4x4 calipers) to start and used EE friction pads in the rear. I had no problems dialing in a proper balance. I now have the AZC Willwood setup up front and am using GG friction pads in the rear.

 

 

Nigel - Can you recommend me some brake pads please, I'm finding it rather hard to find ones in the UK, I've got some cheap pads in there at the moment, I'll be driving it again in less than a week and I want to change to better pads first. All the normal performance brands I'd normally use don't seem to do pads for these callipers (you can't get Mustangs in the UK).

 

 

The only ones I have seen are EBC Yellowstuff pads which are better than what I have but I was hoping for something better, I need a high performance pad that can also be used on the road and from cold. Perhaps America has something to offer.

 

I'm using EBC Yellowstuff pads out back. They have a Cf of 0.5 and are meant to meet the requirements you're asking for. They've worked well for me. However, I'm using the front pads that were included with the AZC kit, which I believe are the Wilwood BP-10 pads. These have a Cf of between 0.4 and 0.45. I seem to recall that you're running something else up front? If they have a significantly higher friction rating, you may not be able to dial in enough rear braking with the Yellowstuff out back.

 

I couldn't find any definitive specs on the HP+ pads that David recommends, but what I did find indicates that they should be at least as good as the Yellowstuff. Dave has vastly more track experience then I do, so I'd trust his recommendations. 

 

Nigel

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Thanks guys, I'm running Hawk HP+ on the front so it makes sense that it would balance out also having them in the rear, I've used them on my civic for a while and find them to be great apart from really heavy dusting.

 

Also good to hear that yellowstuff seem to be good.

 

 

1 Tuff Z - thanks for your offer to help with shipping, I think I can get them ok, but if not I'll keep you in mind.

 

 

 

 

Only just drove the car for the first time tonight with the new brakes, suspension, wheels and so on and not that much due to carb problems (the float chamber keeps overflowing) Still need to setup the caster and toe correctly and then get a feel for the brakes and play around with my prop valve but first impressions are good.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Yes, xxjoeyxxeb, these will work with stock axles. Stock axles have a smaller diameter flange than the CV axles, and this setup will clear CV axles.

 


Almost there! I think I'm going to go ahead and start ordering parts and putting the kits together.


 


 


1. 280zcar (w/ centering ring)


2. takayuki (w/ centering ring)


3. KyleG (w/ centering ring)


4. Ryan Merrill (w/ centering ring)


5. calpoly-z (w/ centering ring)


6. pchermit (w/ centering ring)


7. xxjoeyxxeb (w/ centering ring)


8. Leon (w/ centering ring)


9.


10.


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Great, can't wait! Spring will be here soon!

 

 

Yes, xxjoeyxxeb, these will work with stock axles. Stock axles have a smaller diameter flange than the CV axles, and this setup will clear CV axles.

 

Almost there! I think I'm going to go ahead and start ordering parts and putting the kits together.

 

 

1. 280zcar (w/ centering ring)

2. takayuki (w/ centering ring)

3. KyleG (w/ centering ring)

4. Ryan Merrill (w/ centering ring)

5. calpoly-z (w/ centering ring)

6. pchermit (w/ centering ring)

7. xxjoeyxxeb (w/ centering ring)

8. Leon (w/ centering ring)

9.

10.

 

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How did you guys drill the rotors properly btw?

 

I supply a paper template to mark the hole positions on the rotor. The holes can then be drilled out with a drill press. With a bit of skill, and the tolerance in the holes, they will be close enough that the supplied centering ring will take care of the rest.

 

Nigel, seems your PM box is full. ;)

 

I purged a bunch. Should be lots of room now.

 

Nigel

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I used a CNC machine on my rotors just to make sure they were spot on.

 

 

My brakes seem great so far, much lower friction pads in the rear compared to the front still but I can definitely feel the rear brakes doing their work, I have my bias valve almost fully open at the moment, I think once I change pads I will have to close it up a bit.

 

 

 

Handbrake holds well but unfortunately can't lock the wheels while moving. But with big sticky rear tyres I may need a hydraulic handbrake if I want to do this.

Edited by EF Ian
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1. 280zcar (w/ centering ring)


2. takayuki (w/ centering ring)


3. KyleG (w/ centering ring)


4. Ryan Merrill (w/ centering ring)


5. calpoly-z (w/ centering ring)


6. pchermit (w/ centering ring)


7. xxjoeyxxeb (w/ centering ring)


8. Leon (w/ centering ring)


9. Whitehead Performance (w/ centering ring)


10.


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Does this mean we have 10 buyers now?   :icon7:

 

Only nine, but I'm going ahead with it anyway. I'm sure I can unload the last one without much effort. 

 

My goal is to have most of the part orders placed by the end of next week. If all goes well, kits will ship the beginning of March?

 

Nigel

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1. 280zcar (w/ centering ring)


2. takayuki (w/ centering ring)


3. KyleG (w/ centering ring)


4. Ryan Merrill (w/ centering ring)


5. calpoly-z (w/ centering ring)


6. pchermit (w/ centering ring)


7. xxjoeyxxeb (w/ centering ring)


8. Leon (w/ centering ring)


9. Whitehead Performance (w/ centering ring)


10. SoC MATADOR (w/ centering ring)


 


The first 10 kits are sold at the discount rate! The price now goes up to $350 + $15 for the optional centering ring. Shipping is extra. If you still want a kit, but missed the discount rate, let me know ASAP so I can get it in with this production batch. Once this batch done, I don't know if/when I'll do another. I need a minimum of 10 people at a time to make it worth while.


 


Nigel


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After finally getting to do some proper driving with this setup and after properly bedding them in I can say its a great setup and very well matched to the wilwoods I have on the front. With cheap pads and my bias valve fully open you can really feel the rear brakes working, with better pads my setup would be improve massively. The handbrake can't lock up the wheels but its very effective for parking and while if you pull it while moving it won't lock the wheels you can definitely feel it working well.

 

I can stop from high speeds very quickly now and the car remains very stable.

 

 

 

Definitely a recommended setup. 

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After finally getting to do some proper driving with this setup and after properly bedding them in I can say its a great setup and very well matched to the wilwoods I have on the front. With cheap pads and my bias valve fully open you can really feel the rear brakes working, with better pads my setup would be improve massively. The handbrake can't lock up the wheels but its very effective for parking and while if you pull it while moving it won't lock the wheels you can definitely feel it working well.

 

I can stop from high speeds very quickly now and the car remains very stable.

 

 

 

Definitely a recommended setup. 

 

Hi Ian:
 
Glad to hear you're happy with them! You will see a significant improvement in braking if you switch to a higher friction rear pad. For example, switching from an EE rated pad to a GG rated brake pad will result in brake torque increasing by a minimum of 40%!
 
Keep in mind that the hand brake is meant to engage the brakes for parking, not stopping. The inability to lock the rear wheels with the hand brake while driving in a straight line is not a good assessment of braking ability. On many cars, you can drive around with a properly adjusted hand brake fully engaged and not even notice. However, these Lincoln and Jag calipers will easily hold a nearly 4000lb car in place on a 20 deg slope. So, for our feather weight Datsuns, they're more than adequate.  :icon10:
 
Nigel
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