PETEW Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Hey guys, I have a set Modern Motorsports adaptors with 280zx halfshafts (6 bolt version) and 300zx LSD. The driver side is binding on me. I had it happen last year, so I had the shaft sent out and rebuilt (at least it supposed to be) and put it back in the car. When I first started driving it, I had no binding issues. Now that I have put some miles on it, I have been hearing them binding on me once and awhile (nothing like the bang of a binding cv). I was wondering if others have had this issue. I have read about reversing the cage on 300zx inner cv's and some say the outer cv on the 280zx can be reversed, as well. Can anyone confirm this? What limitations does this put on the CV? Are there any other solutions? I am finally driving this car, again, and I hate to have this come up and delay me again. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PETEW Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 Does anyone else have binding issues with 280zx cv's? I was thinking of getting the shaft shortened by 1/4" and having them scotch keyed. Thoughts? I am also buying a second set of shafts. Has anyone had trouble with one set and not another? Just trying to figure out what I can do to get the car back on the road. Too fun to drive to let it sit. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PETEW Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 The other thing I thought of doing was taking 1/8 to 3/16" off the Modern Motorsports adapter. I am pretty sure there is enough meat there to do that, and have no issue. I could be wrong though. Any thoughts on this method? Thanks for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Are there signs in the CV shaft assembly that it is too short? Signs of wear? Maybe they're just wearing out. It doesn't seem like many people use the 280ZX CV shaft adapters. Haven't seen many accounts of their use. Here's a thread describing another adpater that several people have used. Up to an inch thick. It seems like there should be plenty of extra room for a stock 280ZX CV shaft. Go to Post #35 - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/34048-more-questions-on-cv-axle-conversion/?hl=adapter cygnusx1 used to have another thread with prints of the adapters but it has disappeared. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PETEW Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 Thanks for the reply NewZed. I noticed this statement in post #34 "Or maybe you need to reorient the cage to gain back the 3/8" length (assuming you've done this minor mod as recommended by Ross)" So it looks like Ross did recommend reversing the cage on the one CV. I just want to make sure this does not cause any limitations to movement. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PETEW Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 I should also note that I never heard reversing the cage from Ross or got instruction like that with my adaptors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 (edited) I'm surprised that you're HEARING the CV bind and suspect that you might be hearing something else. Loose gland nut maybe? The 280ZX CV's are different and kind of a PITA to take apart and put back together, you have to cut the boots off as they're crimped on from the factory. I know some people have cut through the metal band and then clamped the boot to the housing, but it's not a tight fit so it would probably rely on the force of the clamp to not leak. They also have both ends floating. The outer moves maybe 1.5" and the inner an inch or so, and they have springs to extend the shaft. To test for bind you should be able to jack the back of the car up and try to slide the CV shaft left and right. If it moves, then it isn't bound. EDIT--flipping the cage on the Z31T axles gains you about 1/8", FWIW. Edited June 11, 2013 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PETEW Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 I am not hearing the CV itself bind. I am hearing the result of the binding. You know, clunk, clunk, kind of stuff. It is quite unnerving. I am going to do some tests today to see where the issue is exactly. I am 99% sure it is binding from the CV, but will make sure of it today. If it is, then I will either disassemble the cv or take it to a machine shop to have the shaft shortened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113018-r200-clsd-chatter-and-pop-video-help/ Try watching this video. Is this what your car might be doing? I have a R200 CLSD and it pops all the time. From what all the gurus tell me, it is just the clutch discs sticking. I'm trying to ignore it. I turned up my stereo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PETEW Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 It is hard to tell from the video, but yes it is a good sounding POP on my car. When it first happened I was thinking LSD but it doesn't do it consistently. I am in the process of doing tests on the CV, to make sure it is not binding in some way. RebekahsZ did the extra tube of friction modifier help? What ever this sound is, it is really upsetting. I keep thinking I am breaking something when I hear it. Thanks for all the help guys. I appreciate the input. I will report my findings tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Thanks for the reply NewZed. I noticed this statement in post #34 "Or maybe you need to reorient the cage to gain back the 3/8" length (assuming you've done this minor mod as recommended by Ross)" So it looks like Ross did recommend reversing the cage on the one CV. I just want to make sure this does not cause any limitations to movement. Thanks. Read Post #45 also. If your axle is too long, it might be because it's a rebuild with new center, or aftermarket new, not Nissan stock. Also, flipping the cages was the common recommendation (now fairly well discounted) for the 300ZX four bolt turbo axles. Might not apply to the 280ZXT CV axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 No, an additional tube of Trans-X didn't help. I thought it did, for a whole day, but I'm back to my old clunk and shudder yesterday and today just as before. It is kind of random. To check CV axle bind, you remove your spring (or lower the seat if you have coilovers), and reassemble the suspension without the spring. Loosen the 4 bolts that attach the axle to the companion flange so you can jiggle it easily. Then, you put a jack under the control arm and jack the suspension from full droop to full compression (or as far as you can compress it), jiggling the axle all the way. If you can jiggle it in and out a little bit, then axle length isn't the problem. Make sure your diff mounts are solid, then live with it. That is what I'm doing. Once I learned, from comments on my video, that all was OK, I'm back to beating on the old girl. I just know that she kicks back every now and then. It scares me every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 His axle has springs in it, so it won't jiggle like a Z31T axle. He'd need to pull very hard. The springs look like valve springs and at full droop you'd be at the shortest axle length, so it's not going to be as easy as a Z31T by any stretch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PETEW Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 Well, the verdict is in. The shaft has plenty of movement throughout the range. I dropped the coil over perch as low as it could go and moved the shock all through it's movement and pulled on the shaft multiple times. it was free every time. I am really stumped. When I hear the popping (banging clanging or whatever you want to call it) it is coming from the drivers side. I also checked the other side to see if it felt different, which it did not. I also spun the wheel to see if I ever felt any binding at some point and I did not. I guess it is coming from diff. My big concern is it didn't do it when I first started driving and seems to be happening more and more. Maybe I will try and add another bottle of friction modifier. It just amazes me that the sound always seems to come from the drivers side. Strange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 You know, some people have reported hearing weird clunks and stuff like that before the stub axle comes apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 To JMortensen's point. You should read the thread below. Q45 axles, not 280ZXT, but might be a similar problem. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110723-q45-vlsd-tearing-up-cages/?hl=shafts&do=findComment&comment=1035217 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 While you have the coil loose, check the gland nuts for tightness. I have had both sides loosen up. It makes a very distinct high pitch "crack." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 To JMortensen's point. You should read the thread below. Q45 axles, not 280ZXT, but might be a similar problem. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110723-q45-vlsd-tearing-up-cages/?hl=shafts&do=findComment&comment=1035217 That's not what I was talking about. If he has 280ZXT axles, I've never heard of them coming apart, with the exception of Jay Hitchcock's car, and he had custom axles made too short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PETEW Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 I added another bottle of friction modifier to the diff. I will see if that makes the noise go away. If not I have another 280ZXT axle here. I will replace the driver side to see if that makes a difference. If not, then I will start looking for other options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Even though it bugs me, my kit has been banging for almost two years and I'm gonna keep on beating on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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