Maxima alternator swap questions(search isn't helping)

[Milenko2121]

I currently have the 70amp turbo alternator in my 280z converted to internally regulated, and it's just not enough juice for everything since I upgraded two dual electric fans ontop of all my other electronics.

 

I've been reading about the GM swap, and I rather not cut thing.

 

I also heard about doing this Maxima alternator swap, but search hasn't shown much information.

Some say only the late 80's models work (90 amp), but require swapping the pulley off my 280zx alternator.

Others say the 1995 model works (125 amp), but requires a different bracket or modifying yours and a pulley swap, but some say you just need to do a pulley swap.

 

Can someone shed some more light on this for me?

There doesn't seem to be a 100% write up on this, and I'd rater get the most power I could so that I have no charging problems ever.

[Dan_Austin]

Are you opposed to cutting wiring to put a different alternator plug on?

If not you can install a dual foot 105A CS130 from 1990 Dodge Monaco.

It also needs a pulley swap and a modified upper mount (BFH and anvil,

or turnbuckle from a hardware store).

 

With the standard GM alternator pulley and undersized pulley on a powersport

damper I have 50 amps at 800 engine RPM.  With either the small GM pulley

or the stock damper you should be able to get that output at 700 rpm.

[Milenko2121]

Wiring is no problem, I just don't like making modifications to brackets.

 

This CS130 alternator seems more expensive than the 125 amp '95 maxima alternator.

 

What would I have to do with the bracket up top exactly?

Do I swap my pulley from my 280zx alternator onto it?

Any machining of the pulley required?

[NewZed]

I modified a 90 amp Maxima alternator for v-belt use by swapping the pulley.  The pulley from your ZX alternator might need to have the hole enlarged if it's a factory unit.  It might be D-shaped.  You'll need to make a spacer (or stack some washers) behind the pulley to get the alignment with the other pulleys correct.  The Maxima microgroove pulley has a standoff built-in.  And you might have to grind or file down some of the alternator housing behind the pulley so it doesn't rub.  Mine looks like it will work, compared to stock, but I haven't had it on yet.  It's bigger than the original so it will be harder to squeeze in to its spot.

 

And you'll probably need an impact wrench to get the pulley nut off, for both alternators.  There's nothing to grab and it will probably have had thread locker applied.  If you try to hold the pulley you'll probably damage it and it might slip on the shaft anyway.

 

Simple in concept but a lot of small problems to solve.

[Dan_Austin]

The stock bracket has two slight bends to meet the face of the top

alternator mount.  The CS130 has a thicker lug face, so you need

a flat bracket.  The turnbuckle works out well and makes adjustments

a whole lot easier.  You could also shave 2~3mm off the alternator

lug, but then replacements would need the same mod.

 

Use the GM pulley.  Any decent rebuilder can swap it, and some

auto parts stores will still swap them.  The standard GM is slightly

smaller than the Nissan if I recall and there are even smaller GM

pulleys available.  If you really want to use the Nissan pulley you

would need to drill it to fit the CS shaft.  The threads on installing

the larger CS alternators cover that process.

 

I have photos of my install here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110175-super-easy-cs130-install/?view=findpost&p=1029924

Edited June 12, 2013 by Dan_Austin

[Milenko2121]

The turnbuckle you used, anything special about it?

I've never bought one for modifications so I don't know what to look for.

Would something like this work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-Adjuster-Bracket-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-510-/170624619147?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27ba05128b&vxp=mtr

 

 

Do you have a part number on that GM Pulley, and was there any work involved in swapping it?

Any spacers or machining involved?

[Dan_Austin]

That turnbuckle would work and looks snazzy, or you can spend $10 bucks are

a local hardware store for a turnbuckle and a couple washers.  Check out my

link above..

 

I bought my CS130 from a local rebuilder and had her do the swap.  She took

it off an old 10si or 12si core, so no part numbers.  NewZed is correct that you

need to use an impact to remove and install the nut.  I've seen it done with the

pulley held in a set of soft-faced vice jars, I've also seen it done by a large fellow

using an impact wrench, a rag and holding the cooling fan with his hand, but I

don't recommend it.

[Milenko2121]

Hmm, I will consider that swap.

 

I am still curious about the 125 amp '95 Maxima alternator swap.

[Dan_Austin]

A couple more suggestions:

 

-  Find an old school starter/alternator rebuilder in your area.  The quality of their work will be far better that the typical parts store reman.

 

-  Ask the build shop their opinion on the alternators that fit.  The shop I went to was not a fan of the Hitachi/Nissan units in the Maxima,

saying they were sensitive to heat and had to be rebuilt more often.  They were selling both alternators for the same price, so I doubt

there was enough margin difference to justify feeding me a line of BS.

 

-  If they have more than one unit available, check the build test sheet that should be in the box.  My 105A unit produced 117A @3000 RPM.

By comparison the 70A turbo parts store alternator it replaced was tested at 62A peak, so again quality matters.

[Milenko2121]

do you have a part number on your alternator?

 

I called my shop locally, and they say it does not exist.

Online says it only had an 85 amp alternator.

[Dan_Austin]

I am finding 96A was the stock and the part number I have is for a World Power System 7973N,

which is listed as a 96A unit ($100 on ebay right now).  If you do not have access to a local

rebuilder who can hot rod the unit a bit (105A was a standard output available in the CS130),

then you'd have to settle for a giving up a few amps.  Which is one of the reasons to check the

build sheets so you make sure you get one that exceeds the stock rating.

[Milenko2121]

Called a shop, they told me they could sell me the unit for $69, and they could bump it up to 200amps for $100 more.

 

I'm going there this weekend to talk to them.

[zcarnut]

Maxima 110A alternator

 

Here is the Maxima 110 amp (LR1110) alternator that I am using shown on an engine during a pre-assembly mock up. As others have mentioned, you must replace the serpentine belt pulley with a v-grove pulley that has been positioned in the correct location with a suitable thickness spacer (washer).

 

Since this alternator is so large, the stock S30 alternator bracket would not fit around it so I used a 240Z smog pump bracket (along with another non-descript bracket visible in the picture) to secure the alternator.

 

I did not trust the S30 lower alternator mounting arrangement for the heavier Maxima alternator, so I drilled through the S30 lower alternator mount and used a long 8mm diameter bolt.  

 

Lastly, I used the Maxima wiring harness to connect the alternator to my 260Z’s electrical circuits.

 

 

 

[Josh280z]

Looking to do exactly this swap! How did you know which wire was which on the maxima wiring harness?

[310z]

I am using the Maxima 125 amp. Two alternator brackets were cut and welded together to make a long enough arm to reach on the larger unit. The pulley is off of an old diesel Maxima (same one you would get a stroker v07 crank shaft out of) and the inner diameter of the mounting hole had to be machined to match the alternator shaft. Then change the end on the wiring. It has no problem powering my car. I have 1900 watts of sound, run 100 watt high beams and an electric fuel pump. You can see some photos in my build thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/83577-the-build-of-a-240z-by-310z/?hl=%2Bbuild+%2B240z+%2B310z

It took a little machining but it is all Nissan

[NewZed]

If you're comfortable with wiring and wiring diagrams the S and L wires can be figured out from the Electrical chapter.

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/use-nicoclub-coms-factory-service-manual-database.html

 

Napaonline sometimes has a diagram for their parts.  Like the Bosch reman, there's a PDF file about Bosch plug pinouts.  Click on "Voltage Regulator Plugs: pdf file.  Looks like H7 style, Hitachi.

 

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Alternator-Remfd-90-Amp/_/R-BSAAL338X_0416358641

 

Rockauto.com has pictures of the plug area.

 

 

Piece everything together and it's figurable.

[Josh280z]

Those FSMs were exactly what I was looking for!

 

310z how much machining did you have to do to get the pulley on there? IE do you know what the ID dimensions are?

Edited July 22, 2014 by Josh280z

[310z]

I have no idea. As I recall the alternator has a tapered shaft. Just take both parts to a machine shop and let them do the measuring.

Edited July 22, 2014 by 310z

[Josh280z]

Sounds like a good idea, thanks for all your help.