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Need help with wiring on my 78 280z in DFW tx area


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Hey guys-

 

If this is not the appropriate place to do this, feel free to let me know.

 

I recently picked up a 78 280z that is in pretty good condition. I have replaced the alternator and the battery, but the car still will not charge. I am looking for someone that understands these cars well to help me out with wiring. The wiring in the bay looks to be a little messy and I am looking for someone I can pay to clean up the wiring a bit and fix my charging issue.

 

Please mesage me on here, or feel free to call or text me if you are looking for a little extra cash and know what you are doing. 972 693 1491.

 

Thanks!

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Hi, I'm in Texas but not really local to you (killeen).

 

The charging system is pretty simple really.  My suggestion to you is to ditch the regulator first.  

 

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/

 

It sucks, but you'll have to get another alternator, but trust me it's worth it.  Keep in mind the cars are really old with old outdated technology.  

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To anyone interested:

 

Few things I saw:

 

Voltage at battery was just over 12 volts.

 

Two fusible links were receiving 12 volts with key off.

 

There used to be a sub in the back and two speaker wires are still there

 

There is also two aftermarket fog lights wired into the harness.

 

With the car running, I referenced one of the fusible links mentioned earlier that was receiving voltage with the key off, and with the car running (we jumped it) the voltage was all over the place, leading me to believe there is a short somewhere.

 

Any input is appreciated.

Edited by 78zstyle
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1978 is internally regulated from the factory.  "Voltage all over the place" doesn't mean much.  Did you get any numbers?  Shorts usually burn wires or blow fuses.  If there was short it would be there with the engine not running also.

 

"Replaced alternator".  With a new know-good one, or just a different one?  Have the alternator tested, the rebuilt ones have been known to be bad from the start.

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1978 is internally regulated from the factory.  "Voltage all over the place" doesn't mean much.  Did you get any numbers?  Shorts usually burn wires or blow fuses.  If there was short it would be there with the engine not running also.

 

"Replaced alternator".  With a new know-good one, or just a different one?  Have the alternator tested, the rebuilt ones have been known to be bad from the start.

 

When I was getting voltage from one of the fusible links that was open with the key in the "off" position, with the car running, voltage was fluctiating from 1-20 rapidly.

 

Also, it blew the fuse in the meter.

 

I can't answer the alternator question, although I will say that I checked the connections on it and there was no obvious signs of corrosion or bad contacts.

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When I was getting voltage from one of the fusible links that was open with the key in the "off" position, with the car running, voltage was fluctiating from 1-20 rapidly.

 

Also, it blew the fuse in the meter.

 

I can't answer the alternator question, although I will say that I checked the connections on it and there was no obvious signs of corrosion or bad contacts.

Where's he in Dallas ?

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