240Z Horn Button Refab

[Pharaohabq]

So I'm beginning to fix some things on my series1 240Z #5837. One of the most obvious issues is the horn button. The black plastic behind it was 40 years old and cracked and crumbling to the point that no amount of glue or Zipties was going to hold that button on. So talking with a buddy of mine, he suggested maybe I could print up a fix. He gave me another busted up button to tear apart, so I did and created a new insert to replace the busted up 40 year old crappy plastic. I printed this out of ABS and worked it into my old button after removing the old plastic. I made it about 3mm wider OD to ensure a snug fit. It can be glued in place with rubber cement, but I'm not certain that's necessary, as it's fairly tight. It fits well on 240Z's and I can print it in about any color (not that you'd see it). Here it's printed in white so you can see the detail. It snaps on just the same as the original did, but ABS is a little more forgiving. If there's a market, I was thinking of selling the printed inserts for $20 ea.

  

It's very interesting to think of recreating various classic S30 parts that are difficult to come by, especially NOS. Let me know if there's any other parts you might like to see recreated.

 

Phar

[BLOZ UP]

Damn... I just threw away one of those because it was all cracked. Doh. Maybe I threw it in my parts bin....

[socorob]

Let me check to see if that's whats broken on mine( im sure it is) and if so I'm interested.

[Pharaohabq]

Thanks,  Send me a PM, this isn't the right location for selling stuff.  Much more I want to know what other parts people are looking for so that we may be able to start a 3D printable data base of parts that are no longer available (NLA) or way too expensive for average joes in NOS.   I was looking at printing the Series 1 hatch Drain covers/internal drains that mount inside the hatch.   Now I want to be clear that though reproductions are good, they are not the same as original OEM, but certainly they're much less expensive.  If you have a 3D printer, I could share my Models so you could print your own.  

[LanceVance]

What are the limits regarding heat and chemical resistance of the plastics available for this? I've had a project in mind that this would be great for, but it would be under hood (and close to the exhaust manifold) so perhaps not?

 

Edit: It would also be in direct contact with oil...

Edited June 25, 2013 by LanceVance

[Pharaohabq]

What are the limits regarding heat and chemical resistance of the plastics available for this? I've had a project in mind that this would be great for, but it would be under hood (and close to the exhaust manifold) so perhaps not?

 

Edit: It would also be in direct contact with oil...

 

Hmm Well I've been printing in ABS, so pretty much whatever ABS can stand up to. Not a lot of heat, I think exhaust would be a bit hot for it. Oil, probably in limited exposure, since acetone quickly melts ABS it may not be the best solution.  A lot of people are beginning to print in Nylon which is much better for temperature, oil and flexibility.  Some of the bigger 3D print houses are using it.  Nylon is also more flexible, but it's also a bit more expensive.    Another possibility is having a part printed then cast in whatever metal you'd like. that's been done successfully, but it's much more than I am capable of in my hobby production.  Lastly metal parts can be laser Sintered 3D printed, but that's not cheap either, but that's direct printed in metal.

 

I'm using a Prusa Mendel, 3D printer. It's hobby level, but still very good.  I'm certain it's good enough for reproducing most S30 parts within a reasonable size. (200mm*200mm*100mm tall)

[socorob]

I pm'ed you. I would like one.

[Pharaohabq]

Socorob also mentioned the Plastic piece under the horn was broken on his friend's car, I'm not sure how often that part breaks too, but if anyone is interested, I could work up a model for it as well. 

 

I was also thinking about the Combination switch, I seem to remember a part in that that breaks easilly, does anyone remember which part that is? We may be able to redesign one a little stronger.

[Dan_Austin]

In the combo switch the are two 4mm buttons that have a 3mm round spring

pockets.  These tend to get brittle or melt.  I thought about taking mold and

doing some plastic casting, but printing might work well.

[Pharaohabq]

Dan, Thanks. I'll look into that part. If that cracks, then the whole Combo switch is bad right?  I'll try to find a busted one, since mine is still working.

[Dan_Austin]

The carrier the two buttons ride in is made of the same plastic, but does

not suffer as much as it is not in direct contact with the copper bus plates

that complete the electrical connection.  I suppose they could get brittle with

age, but the buttons and springs are impossible to find, printing buttons

would solve half the problem.

 

I've had two of the buttons melt, with no obvious damage to the rest of the switch.

 

The first time I was able to find a damaged switch to scavenge the buttons and

springs.  The second time I ended up carving up a drip line sprinkler nozzle until

it fit the pocket and had the correct height and profile to let the switch work.

[Pharaohabq]

hmm well if it's melting then something is geting hot.  ABS can't handle too much heat. (your sprinkler parts are probably ABS) but if we can see why it's heating up it shouldn't be a big deal to print more pads.  The glass bed on the printer is actually really good for making a surface on each part really smooth.   I need to go to the local Z junkyard n see if they've got any busted ones to take apart.

[mditt8671]

I was able to fix my horn button with JB Weld... but I think a prime candidate for printing would be Series 1 ashtray lids, etc.

[Pharaohabq]

Nice, I didn't think of that one, that's a great idea. I'll add that to my list of things to model. Modelling the door and printing in black should work well.  My series 1 console is pretty cracked. Too bad I don't have the ability to print things like an entire console. That would be nice.  I'll look for a Series1 Door, as I need one too.

[Dan_Austin]

The switch internals get worn and loose contacts conduct poorly,

heating up.  A headlight relay harness eliminates the melting, but

the buttons are still brittle and the springs have sagged a bit.

 

The sprinkler bit worked better than expected as I ended up with

it being a bit tall, which tightened up the stalk and applied more

pressure to the contacts.  The second item was obvious due to the

much brighter headlights. 

 

A relay harness and slightly taller buttons would be a killer combo

(pardon the pun)

[socorob]

Thanks. Received the part yesterday and it looks good and fits in the horn pad nice and tight. While steering wheel is apart I'm refinishing the pwood so I won't be able to test the function for a little while longer.

[Pharaohabq]

Socorob, Thank, Glad it fits, Let me know if there's any issue, I'll stand behind the part. 

 

Dan_Austin, Okay, so taller buttons, that's no problem. Do you think 3mm taller would suffice?  You wouldn't happen to have any pictures would you?

[Dan_Austin]

3mm might be excessive. I'd suggest making the spring pocket 1.5mm

shallower and add not more that 1mm to the button dome.

 

I will look to see if I can find a button to get a picture of it.

[Pharaohabq]

Great, Yeah a picture would be awesome.  If you have calipers  some actual measurments would allow me to start a model as well.

[mckinneyhunts]

I need to replace the small white plastic mount that holds the horn contact brush to the combination switch. Mine is cracked at the screw hole and loses contact. It is not a part that appears to be readily available without buying a combination switch, but should be simple to fabricate as its pretty simple.