BitchinZ Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 (edited) I had a manifold exhaust leak so while I had it torn down I decided to get a coated 6-1 header from MSA. I was looking for some tips to install it correctly. So far Ive Installed new studs with anti-sieze and cleaned the mating surfaces until shiny with a Scotchbrite. Some questions I have are should I use any copper RTV anywhere with the gasket? Is the gasket MSA provided and the 6 spacers good enough to ensure no leaks? Their spacers are the right size, no mods needed? The gasket has a flat side and a curvier side, does the flat side go against the head? Suggested torque for the nuts with a header? I should probably leave the intake heatshield on correct? Anything else I need to do? Should I even use the header? I could still put the stock manifold back on. I like the look of the header and dont mind any extra noise but Im going to lower the car soon and dont want the header hanging too low. If its not slammed will it even be an issue? Thanks Edited July 26, 2013 by BitchinZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 I didn't use any rtv and it was ok for me 10k miles later. The MSA gasket is fine, but I think I actually used a felpro one when I did it bcause I didn't like the material of the msa gasket. Gasket side doesn't matter, I believe it's curved just because of the sheet they print it out from. Torque is in the fsm, but I tightened as much as I could with a 3/8's ratchet or a short wrench, just don't overdue it. Leaving the heat shield will help, but I never used one, I had coated headers with an N42 shaved intake above and never had any problems in my ZX. I had to use the 6-2-1 headers, and I brought the y pipe to my muffler shop and they shortened it all there before I installed them. The headers I had tucked up above the frame rails, so they didn't scrape. My 260z with 6-1 headers did scrape at the rear of the exhaust system because whoever made it sucked, the headers were never a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Port match the header to the gasket, Cut the three bolt flange and the neck down to 2.5" off the end of the header and run a slip fit with collector bolt tabs, test fit a few times dry to make sure the ports line up. I used a light coat of Permatex Copper RTV between the header and the gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bone028 Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 I did not use any rtv or copper spray when I replaced my gasket...I also just tightened down the nuts without using a torque wrench...as said earlier, just don't overdo it. I'm assuming you'll take it to an exhaust shop to connect it to the rest of the exhaust...perfect opportunity to add a O2 bung for a wideband if you don't have one already! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skirkland1980 Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 I noticed that when I used copper spray on the header gaskets on my sbc they lasted just a little longer. I was blowing out the passenger side about once a year. Funny, no problems on the divers side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BitchinZ Posted July 29, 2013 Author Share Posted July 29, 2013 (edited) Thanks. I got it bolted up, looks good but its touching the heat shield under the intake manifold. Is it fine for them to be slightly touching? I dont want to take the manifold off again but I will if its a problem. I havent started it yet. Edited July 29, 2013 by BitchinZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericbauer Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 touching is fine - but you might get an annoying rattle out of it... depending on the header sometimes the bolt holes are so big that there's a bit of slop on how it lines up to the head. maybe next time you have it off, you might want to weld on a washer over the bolt hole to perfectly locate it every time... just a suggestion... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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