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280z L28ET


Autismisakiller

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I just bought a non running 280z with a swapped L28ET. The guy I bought it from tried to wire in MS-2 and couldn't get it to work. So he bought a Relay board and tried that. I plan on gutting his hack job wiring and redoing it but I need a little help identifiting some parts and I have a few questions.

 

1. What type of distributor is this?(I can take more pics later if needed)

 

2. Do I even need the relay board or would I be better off just running everything directly into the MS-2?(I prefer soldered wires not ones just barely hanging)

 

3. Does anyone have baseline files that I can get a copy of?

 

I appreciate the help I have been searching all over about MS-2 L28ET and the general problem is that I have no idea what the guy did and where he left off. That's why I am going to redo the wiring.

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That's a turbo dizzy, but I can't see if it has the cas or not. Look for a plug that has 4 wires in it, about 4" long off the dizzy.

 

You should run a relay board, unless you plan on trying to hook it into the original relays/fuses the car has, but since you have it I would use it to protect the board and wiring. 

 

There are plenty of people with baselines, you can probably find a thread in this section.

 

Depending on how he did the wiring, a normal 8' ms wiring has labeled wires. You could also try contacting matt cramer or diyautotune themselves for help

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Looks like the stock turbo dist to me.

 

You need to either make your own relay board or buy one

 

That is the Ms2 firmware version, you need to know that code. \

 

The wiring doesnt look good at the ms unit, Yes solder the wiring.

 

The map sharing thread is on this site, you just pick a map that is close to your setup and copy it. you start tuning from that map.

 

Msefi.com and the megamanual shows how to wire the unit up and how to set intial settings.

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One more question for now, I know the relay board connects directly to the ms-2 through the 37 pin connector cable but are there inputs I need to use for the ms-2 that aren't one the relay board? Do I just run everything to the relay board and then run a female to female 37 pin cable between the relay board and the ms-2?

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You definitely have an '81 motor. You can see the CAS with the pigtail running up from the toothed wheel on the crank pulley. I never could get the 81 cas to work properly with MS, it would idle fine but it would cut out and lose the signal above 4000rpm. It's possible I had a bad sensor, but it's something to note if you have problems. I wired mine up exactly like the optical distributor, they both output the same signal even if the 81 CAS is actually a VR sensor. If you have problems with the CAS and you're feeling adventurous, you can read about how to convert the 120 tooth wheel into a 30-1 wheel here. It will allow you to run wasted spark, if you want.

 

You don't have to use the MS relay board, but you do need to wire in relays and fuses somewhere. I modified a Ford power distribution block with my wiring harness instead of the MS relay board. You can read about the MS relay board here. I don't know much about the relay board, but I think it just passes everything straight through to a terminal strip. I would think it has all the connections MS2 needs.

 

One thing to note, it says you're running MS2-Extra, which is a different code base. You should always check the documentation at msextra.com before looking at main megasquirt.info website.

Edited by Metro
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So I start rewiring the car but I have a couple more questions now.

 

1. What sensor is this on the intake manifold right after the blue pipe coupling?(it looks like an O2 sensor?)

 

2. What is FIDLE and what is connected to it?

 

3. I read that the MS2 comes with a built in MAP sensor what does it look like? All I find on intake side is #1 and a TPS.

 

4. There are also a ton of vacuum lines missing as well any ideas where they go?

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That is an IAT ( Intake air temp) sensor. Fidle can be programmable output. The built in map sensor is on the megasquirt unit itself below the db37 plug.

Thanks.

Ok I see the map sensor (face palm) I just assumed it meant it came with one. Is there a certain spot I should run the hose for the map from? Like before throttle body but after BOV or after throttle body on intake manifold? So I don't need Fidle for the car to run then right?

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Thanks.

Ok I see the map sensor (face palm) I just assumed it meant it came with one. Is there a certain spot I should run the hose for the map from? Like before throttle body but after BOV or after throttle body on intake manifold? So I don't need Fidle for the car to run then right?

 

After the throttle body, on the intake manifold.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sort of and maybe.

The way you have it shown, inj 1,2,&3 will fire at the same time. 4,5,&6 will as well. MS switches  the ground (- side). You could wire all the positive sides together if you wished.

 

You can choose how the two banks fire, either simultaneously or alternating in the software.

 

If you want individual control, you need an injector driver for each injector. MS only has 2. There are ways to add more.

http://www.msextra.com

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So it will work like that but I am assuming my wideband O2 will read completely wrong, right? I looked at the link and I see I could setup sequential injection in the software but the only hardware I can find on diyautotune is not for MSExtra (http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diypnp-upgrade-sequential-injection-kit-p-386.html) am I missing something? I just want to get the car running for right this minute and then add extra features later so will it work with 1,2,3 and 4,5,6 injecting at the same time?

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Yes it will work like that. Why do you think the wideband will read completely wrong? Most of the fuel injected cars ever produced used batch injection which all fired at the same time (280Z and 280ZX included).

 

The kit you point to is for a DIYPNP controller. It will not work on a regular MS2.

 

But you do not *need* sequential. It will run fine on batch.

 

I understand that you "just want to get the car running for right this minute", but I think you need to stop and do a lot of reading at the link I provided. If you've never done anything like this before you need to get a better understanding of the system. You run the risk of damaging the engine. Worse yet, in the quest to get it done quickly by attacking individual issues as you discover them, it will definitely take longer than if you take a couple hours and read up on  of EFI and the specifics of the MS system. 

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I tried finding someone in my area already but no luck the only people around is a shop that tunes MS but they don't install MS. Also, I did quite a bit of reading the problem is that I bought the car with the wring done half ass and wouldn't run. So, I gutted it and started over with not documentation of what anything is or how it was intended on being hooked up. I didn't know that most EFI use batch that's actually very interesting. I appreciate the time and help.

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