Bowtie29 Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 I'm quite new to the Z-car world, so I'm sure this has been discussed on here before and I apologize in advance. I acquired an '83 280zx from my father-in-law this spring and I'm just now getting some time and parts together. The car is super clean with 80k on it. I've got some rebuilt Kei Offices coilovers from a friend that were too long for the front of his S13 drift car project. I've read enough to complete the coilovers swap, and I'm looking forward to get started on that. So, to get to the point, I've been looking to do some sort of brake upgrade on both the front and rear. I've read some threads that talk about the Silvermine upgrade kit, but it seems that we could all just piece together those parts a lot cheaper than we could buy their kit. But that doesn't really upgrade the rear, and frankly, I don't want to spend $600 some odd bucks on brakes if I can piece something together for $200-300. Should I just go 5 lug and use some Z31spindles, hubs, and brakes? But, changing spindles will require some sort of lower ball joint/control arm change, right? Is there a kit guys have pieced together with bigger front and rear calipers and somewhat larger rotors? I don't have a problem running 4 lug, in fact I would almost prefer to leave it all alone and just fit some larger calipers and rotors on the stock hubs. I plan on running some autocross stuff next spring. I've got all new bushings coming for the car too, I'd like to really tighten up the suspension because as it sits, it's really wore out. The rubber bushings are totally dried out. It need brakes, I just don't want to put stock brakes on the thing because I know I'd be upgrading them sooner or later. I appreciate any advice and understand if you just post some links pertaining to this topic. Love the forum, I've learned a lot. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Stock brakes will go a long way with proper pads and rotors and fluids. I'm fairly competitive with SS lines and hawk pads. The Silvermine kit can be put together for less if you can find the calipers and rotors. The adapter to make the calipers work is what costs money. If you do want to go 5 lug, I believe you can just use the hubs, not too sure since I haven't measured anything out. I didn't feel the need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 (edited) 1. Read and study FAQs and old posts for at least 40 hours since all of these issues have been discussed in detail over the last 10 years. If the search function doesn't work, do a Google search. Type: site: hybridz.org key words 2. Save your money. Stock brakes are fine. 3. Since the car is close to 40 years old rebuild/refresh the stock brakes and add some good street pads e.g., Hawk blues etc. Add SS braided brake lines. 4. So called brake upgrades don't always improve performance - they can actually reduce performance. 5. Always consider that installing "big brakes" can result in an unbalanced system. The stock brakes were engineered and balanced. Most "hobby" brake upgrades are not. Make haste slowly. Edited August 13, 2013 by Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtie29 Posted August 13, 2013 Author Share Posted August 13, 2013 Thanks for the advice. For what I'm doing, I'm sure the stock stuff will be fine. I'm looking forward to getting into the upgrades and refresh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skirkland1980 Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 The z31 hubs will bolt to the s130 spindles with no mods. As for calipers I am not sure. The larger z31 rotors from 1984-1985 NA cars will bolt straight to the s130 hubs with no mods. Maybe, armed with this info, you can come up with a brake upgrade for us s130 guys. MSA sells semi metallic pads for s130 cars that shouldn't fade so quickly. For about double the price you can get some from EBC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtie29 Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 Well, for now I'll be retaining the factory calipers. I bought some eBay slotted rotors from ABT (Advanced Brake Technology). I'm hoping they are decent enough for what I plan to do. The customer reviews didn't state any problems with them. I couldn't beat the price either at $110 for all four corners. I also bought some Apex Stainless Steal hoses to replace the factory rubber ones. I sourced these from eBay too for $60. The kicker was finding a decent pad. I had heard good reviews from a friend of mine on the Hawk HPS but Hawk doesn't produce a pad for the S130 in that particular pad compound, only full race pads (I'll never generate enough heat running auto cross every now and then). So with some more digging and reading and searching I went with Porterfield R4S. A lot of guys run these as a cheaper alternative to the Hawk HPS. They're a more street friendly compound. Reviews were mixed, I determined that most of the problems with them were probably due to installer error, but not all, a lot said they took more pedal pressure to really get things woaded down, but I'll take a chance. I found them on topbrakes.com and they cost $126 shipped. Porterfield was the only company selling a pad that hopefully exceeds my braking needs. I was hoping to get going on everything last weekend but happily spend Saturday and Sunday painting my buddy's Z31. I'm still waiting on the pads to show up, and it will be a little but while I get the tubes welded on to the front spindles and coilovers and all the new bushings welded in. I'm gonna be sure to do a decent build thread when I get the suspension finished up. I can get you guys part numbers/item numbers for these components if you want. For $300 I hope this is a "cheaper" alternative for those of us daily driving/auto crossing every now and then. Not included in that $300 is front and rear brand new (not reman) calipers for all four corners. The local O'Reilly's could still get all four and the counter kid told me they were the last in the warehouse, so I bought them. I probably won't need them, but I'm the type that if I can have extras sitting on my shelf for something that is hard to get, I'll take 'em. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtie29 Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 I won't be "welding" bushings in...still a little fuzzy this morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtie29 Posted September 19, 2013 Author Share Posted September 19, 2013 Anybody have some S130 top hats on REAR S13 coilovers? I'm gonna get the old rear struts apart tomorrow and see if they will bolt onto my coilovers without too much hassle. I was going to just drill a second hole, but I've found that I would need to open up the big hole a ways an also elongate an existing hole. I feel that if I do that I'm going to significantly reduce overall strength of the factory top plate. Don't get me wrong, I'm not afraid to do it, but bolt in would be so much cleaner. I'm also a little concerned that if at a SCCA solo event and they look at them they might have a problem with it. They do have some rules as to modifying strut mounts. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted September 21, 2013 Share Posted September 21, 2013 I had some custom top hats made. Basically the bottom matched the Kei office part, and the top matched the s130 top hat part. Cost me $200 for a pair. Your coilovers should use a rubber bushing in the rear top hat, so a seat/lip just needs to be in the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtie29 Posted September 22, 2013 Author Share Posted September 22, 2013 I saw your thread on that from a couple years back, looked nice. The top hat from the stock strut won't work at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted September 22, 2013 Share Posted September 22, 2013 I didn't try it, but I don't think it will because the piston diameter is different. Plus it sits about 2-3 inches lower with the flat style top hat instead of the thick s130 top hat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtie29 Posted September 22, 2013 Author Share Posted September 22, 2013 Yea, there was no way to really put it on the coilover. (I've got Kei Offices too) I think I'm gonna just put my big boy pants on and drill a new hole, waller out the center hole to fit the rubber bushing, and slot an existing hole opposite the new one. I just want it done. I'll probably make a plate just to add a little strength to the tower. I'm still waiting on my front tubes to get made up so I've got some time yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtie29 Posted September 30, 2013 Author Share Posted September 30, 2013 Well, I've got my rear coilovers all in, I haven't set ride height yet, but I'm wondering if any of you have made modifications to the subframe for toe/camber adjustment. I've noticed that there really aren't any "kits" to do so. I don't know if the toe is off or if it's just and optical illusion now that the hub/brake assembly sits further up in the wheel well. I would think that if the rear suspension on the ZXs needed toe to be adjusted the factory would have designed it to be be adjustable. I wouldn't think that raising the control arm at the coil mount point would change toe at all. Anyone have any thoughts on this? The picture sucks for showing this, but it was really the only one I have that shows where the brake now sits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted October 1, 2013 Share Posted October 1, 2013 The more you lower your rear, the more camber and toe it will gain, there is nothing to do about this using stock bushings. It's really noticeable when you have stock sized wheels on and lower the crap out of the car. There is a toe/camber kit in the making. It will require the subframe to be pulled out and adjustable hinges welded in as the pivot points for the front of the control arm. Other than that PPK tried to use offset heim joints welded in place of the old rubber bushings. It would work, if he never changed wheels, and stayed at the same height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtie29 Posted October 2, 2013 Author Share Posted October 2, 2013 When might this kit be ready? I'm gonna have the subframe on the ground tonight. Right now I'm thinking the quickest way to do this would be to slot the holes on the subframe brackets and run Z31 rear camber/toe centric bolts/washers and then weld on the little 'C' brackets that hold the washer in place. Anyone else done this? It looks like an easy way to go. Be awesome if there was a simple kit that include the parts to do so... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83turbo280zx Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 frankly, I don't want to spend $600 some odd bucks on brakes frankly, I guess you don't care about your life or safety lol. 1 thing to NEVER EVER SKIMP ON, is brakes, yes there are kits out there that will work, some not as well as others, but if you want it to stop RIGHT, and PROPERLY, I wouldn't go with anything else other than a well priced BBK, arizonazcar.com has awesome kits, I have them on mine, wouldn't have it any other way compared to 300zx brakes, Toyota 4x4, or the mustang brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtie29 Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share Posted October 3, 2013 Believe me, I want the Wilwood kit from Arizona Z, just don't have the cash to just plop down. I'm willing to put my life on the line with new/upgraded pads, rotors, and braided hoses, even if it is all just stock replacement parts. Someday when I've got the money, the wilwood kit will be priority, but just to run some auto cross events I'll have to skimp for a little bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 Ppk did exactly what you want to do with the subframe. And he kept breaking the brackets off. Plus those eccentric bolts give you maybe half to a full degree of movement which isn't enough really. The kit is in the works, check the s130 build thread section. Stock calipers with ss lines and good pads go a long way..... I just wouldn't mess with the bias. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtie29 Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 Well, I've been busy with all kinds of other stuff but finally have some time now to get back to work on the ZX. My coilover adapters are made, just need to pick them up from my machinist buddy. Hopefully have the front suspension back together within the next couple weekends. I've been doing some digging around looking for the easiest/fastest way to solve the rear camber/toe adjustment and stumbled upon this last night. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=6946&hilit I'm sure some of you have seen this. Should work awesome and give way more adjustability over just slotting the factory tabs. I've already got the rear subframe out of the car, so this looks like the best way to go at this point. What do you guys think? Maybe do a group buy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtie29 Posted November 16, 2013 Author Share Posted November 16, 2013 Anybody have any updates on this particular kit? Same guy is making this that made the ones for the 510 in the last link I posted. http://m.zdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?p=329573#post329573 I've tried to find some answers on how this might be coming along. I might steal the idea and make it myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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