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Bolt in lsd options for an R200


spiff

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After reading a lot of threads here let me know if I understand this correct as I'm looking into a way of getting my open r200 into an lsd unit and I see there are lots of diff centers for sale on ebay f.ex and they are cheap. Mainly the nissan S13-14 and some s15 helicals.

 

Nissan S13 and 14 R200 VLSD: Will bolt in to my existing r200 but will behave like an open diff due to my stock stub axles not being long enough to engage the lsd unit. ?

 

Nissan R200 CLSD: Will bolt in and do its job as and lsd without modifications. Only found in the Z31 87 to 88 model and thus hard to find?

 

Silvia S15 R200 helical: Will bolt in but stub axles won't fit due to the helical being 30 spline as opposed to my stock ones which are 29 spline

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You sure? Some of the vlsd centers on ebay had close up pictures of the input splines and I'm sure I counted 29 splines there...

If I need to mix and match different axles to make something fit it would pretty soon add up to the cost of an obx or something aftermarket as I would have to import all og this from overseas, you just dont find Z's at the wreckers here in Norway...

But a clutch diff from a z31 is bolt in right?

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From what I know theres two types of S13 LSDs on the market.  Ones designed for open diffed s13s, and ones designed for the s13s with a factory lsd.  They had different spline counts, thus you find both options.

What you want is an S13 lsd designed for the open diffed cars.  Kaaz, Cusco, Tomei, Os Giken (Drooool, os giken), Carbonetics, Quaife (More droolage), Obx- The options are ridiculously endless.  I myself opted for the OBX differential-  I like the idea of a mechanical, theyre absurdly cheap, and theyve been relatively well received around here if you take some very VERY simple (and cheap!) precautions.  From what I know all you need are some ring gear bolt spacers (This is what I did with my obx), and bobs your fathers brother for most of these options.

Side rant: In all honesty-  I struggle to understand why those 300zx lsds fetch as much money (on average) as they do.  Maybe its because the knowledge of these other options is relatively unknown? I know theyre rare/hard to come by, but so what.  For the kind of money they usually go for nowadays you can easily pick up a vastly superior aftermarket unit.  Maybe if you could snag one for a few hundred bucks, but not 6, 7, or 800+.  Ah well, anyways.

For what its worth, id steer clear of a Vlsd.  Clutch or mechanical if you can.

 

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There's one on ebay now, diff housing and all for 600 USD, 700 incl shipping to New Jersey, and then I'd have to get it shipped NJ to Norway, adding more money and then paying 25% sales tax on it ones it arrives here and all of a sudden a quaife or nismo unit would have been cheaper :icon56: And I would have another diff housing taking up space in my garage....

Z32 vlsd's are around $2-300 so yeah, why pay 600 for a z31 when an obx is 400.... 

What is your experience with the obx in terms of handling and sideways action compared to the stock open and a vlsd?

 

My only hands on experience with lsd's is from my previous Z32 TT 2+2 and it worked good for my use, but I haven't tried anything else so... But the obx unit is becoming more and more tempting just for the ease of installation and availability...

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You sure? Some of the vlsd centers on ebay had close up pictures of the input splines and I'm sure I counted 29 splines there...

If I need to mix and match different axles to make something fit it would pretty soon add up to the cost of an obx or something aftermarket as I would have to import all og this from overseas, you just dont find Z's at the wreckers here in Norway...

But a clutch diff from a z31 is bolt in right?

No, I'm not sure. I wouldn't count splines in a picture as a way of verifying though. I'd do some searching on silvia forums and see if you can figure it out that way.

 

Clutch LSD is indeed a bolt in. Ring gear bolt spacers if you want to be extra cautious.

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  • 2 weeks later...

KIND OF OFF-topic, but anybody got any drag racing experience with the Shiro VLSD? I'm getting kind of tired of all the chatter and bang of my CLSD. I autocross once a month tops, track day twice a year, but try to drag race at least a couple times a month. The shimmed-extra clutches-CLSD bangs so much. You would think after two years I would be used to it, but it still makes me think I've broken a half shaft everytime it hits. Never bangs under power, it does it in traffic, parking lots, return track and paddock. It's a low-power thing.

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Do you happen to use synthetic fluid? Eaton told me to use regular oil in their trutrac because synthetic doesn't have as much crush strength as good ole dinosaur stuff or else it would make a lot of noise and wear quicker.

 

EDIT nevermind you have a clutch LSD not a gear type. I misread.

Edited by socorob
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