Guest Anonymous Posted October 29, 2001 Share Posted October 29, 2001 After that extensive V8 Handling post, I didn't want to open up a whole new can of worms, but here it is anyway... Whats the general consensus on setting back the engine by another 1/2" to 3/4" by using a smaller diameter (than HEI) distributor? Is it worth it or should I not bother? What kind of distributor should I be looking for? MSD? Mallory Unilite? Remote Coil HEI (a la davessmallbodyheis.com check it out this guy is really good) I need something pre-computer with vacuum advance. Pros, Cons Anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted October 29, 2001 Share Posted October 29, 2001 Omar, I was debating this exact subject and decided this: I have an HEI with standard coil & module. I also have a factory points/condensor type distributor which I have converted to solid state with the Pertronix 'Ignitor' module. Since the later is smaller and allows the further setback of the engine, I'm using that one. Since I would want to buy the upgraded coil & module for the HEI anyway, I'll just buy a high output coil for the Pertronix unit. I don't think the engine can be too far back (within reason). BTW, Pertronix now has a 'mark II' version of the 'ignitor', but I'm not sure what the upgrade is. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted October 29, 2001 Share Posted October 29, 2001 1/2" or 3/4". That's probably equivalent of having 8 vs 10 gallons of gas in the tank. I doubt it's worth worrying about for mor that 1 second. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulR Posted October 29, 2001 Share Posted October 29, 2001 Tim, that is pretty much what I am running: A points-style distributor with a Pertronics Ignitor which is triggering a MSD-6AL ignition module firing an Accell Super-Coil. When I made up my JTR set-back plates, I added an additional .5 inch offset, which offsets the mounts by 4.0 inch (vs 3.5 for the JTR plates). Like Pete says, its not a big difference and I certainly wouldn't go thru all the trouble to change an existing set-up... but if you're starting from scratch... why not? quote: Originally posted by Tim240Z: Omar, I was debating this exact subject and decided this: I have an HEI with standard coil & module. I also have a factory points/condensor type distributor which I have converted to solid state with the Pertronix 'Ignitor' module. Since the later is smaller and allows the further setback of the engine, I'm using that one. Since I would want to buy the upgraded coil & module for the HEI anyway, I'll just buy a high output coil for the Pertronix unit. I don't think the engine can be too far back (within reason). BTW, Pertronix now has a 'mark II' version of the 'ignitor', but I'm not sure what the upgrade is. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 29, 2001 Share Posted October 29, 2001 Also depends on what tranny your running. For example, a T56 will need even more clearancing around the bellhousing on the pass side I'm sure to get it back any further. JTR kit puts that sucker back there pretty far as it is. You do have a little latitude on the sloted Datsun mounts, but probably only 1/4 to 5/16" probably. Mine ended up pretty much centered on the crossmember, I regret even taking the time to slot it to be truthful. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NOSZCAR Posted October 29, 2001 Share Posted October 29, 2001 I WENT AN EXTRA INCH! DON'T DO IT ITS NOT WORTH THE TROUBLE! TO MUCH BEATING ON THE TRANS TUNNEL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 29, 2001 Share Posted October 29, 2001 Pete, I figured since I'm building the car from the ground up and it costs roughly the same as a freshened up HEI, I might as well go ahead and set the engine back 1/2-3/4" since I've got nothing to lose (or do I?). I will be using a T5 WC tranny so I don't anticipate any problems with tunnel clearance. So I've got a couple questions for you folks, what small body distributor assemblies do you recommend? I like the idea of the Pertronix fully transistorized conversion, but how much output does it give up to the HEI? What about the respective offerings from MSD, Mallory, etc? Keep in mind that I don't want to spend too much on the distributor. What about Tach hookup? How does that work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted October 29, 2001 Share Posted October 29, 2001 Not sure which of those is better of the brands. Yeah, if it's not any extra work, why not, except to access the back area of the engine for one reason or another. Also, it may move the trans back far enough that the JTR trans brace doesn't fit in the tunnel, but you could plan for that when making one up. I'm using the HEI and to tell you the truth, the engine is close enough to the firewall for me. I have some ground wiring going to the tranny to engine bolts, and they are not easy to get to. Plus, working on the oil pressure switch, and other fittings at the back of the manifold is tight as it is. I'm just saying there are a few minor inconveniences for slamming the motor all the way back as far as you can. It's a trade off, only you can decide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted October 29, 2001 Share Posted October 29, 2001 this guy i know that has a jtr setup has his pretty far back, so much that he had to dimple the firewall with some hammer blows to get the hei in, but hey, whatever... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 30, 2001 Share Posted October 30, 2001 Probably wouldn't take much to get the HEI touching the firewall, I can slide maybe the tip of my pointer finger between the firewall and the HEI. Check your driveline angles if you do move it back, the shorter the driveline, the worse that angle becomes unless you raise the back diff mount up (like JTR shows) to improve the angle, I've yet to do that, and mine has a vibration that starts at about 2500 rpm's and stays there until my low redline of 5 grand. Its not there usually in part throttle conditions, only WFO. Its a buzz that really the vibrates the crap out of the center console. I need to fix that soon. Oh well, just a thought, good luck with it. Regards, Lone [ October 29, 2001: Message edited by: lonehdrider ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted October 30, 2001 Share Posted October 30, 2001 Like Pete I've got ground wires going to studs in the back of my heads. I have about 1/2" clearance from my HEI to the firewall but only about 3/8 from the grounding studs. I haven't driven the car much yet, still working on the body, but I'm concerned with so little clearance that the motor will rap the firewall at those studs on a heavy launch. Gotta keep motor movement in mind when snuggin' the dist up to the firewall. Things could go snap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dankinzle Posted October 30, 2001 Share Posted October 30, 2001 Where does everyone hook up the chains for the hoist when they pull the engine/tranny? Mine is .5" from the firewall and I know it's a real PITA to get the bolts off the back of the engine. With all this tranny problem I've been having, I almost wish I had the scarab back (not really though ) cause every time I wanna do anything with the tranny I basically have to take the whole thing out. I personally would just "settle" with 3/4". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 30, 2001 Share Posted October 30, 2001 I was also considering this extra inch to the rear. I am waiting to get my bell housing in the mail though. I bought a lakewood blow proof bell housing and won't know crap till i set it next to my stock one. I want the most setback I can get for if no other reason...shifter position. I have a Hurst super shifter with the four inch set back plate and straight aluminum rods. (SWWWWEEEEEET looking setup). I already have a 6A box with the six and a blaster coil. jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 30, 2001 Share Posted October 30, 2001 oh yeah... M20 Muncie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted October 30, 2001 Share Posted October 30, 2001 Jake, I had forgotten that my Lakewood blowproof would rub if I went further back as well. As it was, I had to bump the tunnel near the firewall on the passenger side as it was (but only 1/2" in). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 30, 2001 Share Posted October 30, 2001 Dankinzle, "Where does everyone hook up the chains for the hoist when they pull the engine/tranny? " When I got my crate motor, GM thoughtfully included two lifting straps, they bolted to the head bolt holes front and diagnoly rear (use one of the three threaded holes in the front and back of the heads). The bolt will have to be short in the back by the firewall, but I was able to remove the strap after I dropped it in, so there is room enough to get to it (its tight). They do make a carb plate with a loop on it to pull engines (Moroso I believe makes one), but with the tranny on there, I was always nervous to use that especially on a aluminum manifold. Good luck, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 30, 2001 Share Posted October 30, 2001 Pete, So you are saying that I will have to slightly modify the firewall already just to make room for the lakewood? Not counting the extra setback??!!! crap! I was really hoping to because I am going for a solid rear ended wheel pullin monster. Jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted October 30, 2001 Share Posted October 30, 2001 Not the firewall, just a very minor (light swing of a 3 ) on the tunnel in one 4"x4" spot. Very easy and hardly noticeable. This is with an HEI and about 3/4" between it and the firewall. Move it back more and the Lakewood will need more clearancing in the tunnel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 31, 2001 Share Posted October 31, 2001 As long as it is only in the tunnel I can cut out a little and make it bigger I guess. Wouldn't take too much work would it. I really want more weight on those rear wheels to try for a wheelie. I may be chasing my tail cause some of the guys here say there wheels almost come off the ground with the datsun rear. The straight rear will have totally different reaction on chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedRacer Posted October 31, 2001 Share Posted October 31, 2001 MSD http://www.msdignition.com/ makes a very small billet electronic distributor Part Number 8570. It's a bit smaller in diameter than the stock Delco and about an 1" lower. I used it on my car because of the limited room with the Tri-Power installed. Downside is that it does not have a vacuum advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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