geno51 Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 We just welded some rod stock along the bottom of our panel and attached it at 2 points makes it super sturdy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 We just welded some rod stock along the bottom of our panel and attached it at 2 points makes it super sturdy Good call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 Small update: I cut my x pipe in half, and made a transition to a 3.5" pipe with Vband connection. Started removing someone's poor patch job, to find... more rust. Marked Cut out, and new piece in Thats all for now. Hope to finish this out in the next couple days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Round out your corners on patch panels they won't warp as bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 Round out your corners on patch panels they won't warp as bad. Hmm. Ok. I hadn't really had a big problem with warping, but thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Thinner metal tends to warp pretty good at the corners so rounding them or simply cutting a circle helps a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 (edited) My drivers side was rusted there too. I got lucky and found one in the junkyard with the hinge area good. Chopped it off with a battery sawsall and welded it in place on mine. That area is THIN! Square corners in thin stuff can tend to blow thru easier. Edited March 18, 2014 by socorob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 After that I got some Eastwood internal frame coating and doused the inside of every cavity I possibly could. Hope that stuff works as advertised. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 My drivers side was rusted there too. I got lucky and found one in the junkyard with the hinge area good. Chopped it off with a battery sawsall and welded it in place on mine. That area is THIN! Square corners in thin stuff can tend to blow thru easier. Any car over 20 years old they just crush here. It sucks, because there are NO Z cars to be found in scrap yards. Even the donor 300zx's are going away. There are a few of them in turn rows on craigslist, but I don't need a $700 parts pile in my back yard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 (edited) The self serve yards here will take anything, but they rotate cars every 2-3 months, so they're not there for long when they do show up. Edited March 18, 2014 by socorob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 I spent a couple hours cleaning the god-forsaken undercoating and paint off the inner fenders last night. I looked like a coal miner when I was done. Drivers side cleaned Pass Side before Pass side cleaned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey303LSZ Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Looks good. What did you use to remove and strip the undercoating and paint? I found a needle descaler to be effective on the undercoating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 Looks good. What did you use to remove and strip the undercoating and paint? I found a needle descaler to be effective on the undercoating. Used an air hammer w/ chisel to take off most of the undercoating. Have to be careful not to beat up the inner fenders though. Then I used a 6" nylon cup brush on a big boy grinder. Worked very well for stripping the paint. Planning on finishing all the metal work, then etching and POR-15'ing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey303LSZ Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Sunny - Thanks for the pointer on the nylon cup brush. I tried one out tonight and it works great! Much better than the wire brush and scotch Brite pads I was using on the floor pans and sub frame connectors. The cup brush scuffs things well for the next step - POR15. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Sunny - Thanks for the pointer on the nylon cup brush. I tried one out tonight and it works great! Much better than the wire brush and scotch Brite pads I was using on the floor pans and sub frame connectors. The cup brush scuffs things well for the next step - POR15. Glad I could help. Say hello to my littal freind! Sold the t56 and Monster clutch and picked up a Magnum t56 an McCleod RST with only 3k miles on it. Apparently I was running when I took these... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 PLEASE do a detailed write up with pics. Especially detail clutch set up and slave cylinder. I'm contemplating a dog-ring gear box in the not-to-distant future. I'm piddling with starting a manual transmission drag racing club in my area. Which means competing against Lencos..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 PLEASE do a detailed write up with pics. Especially detail clutch set up and slave cylinder. I'm contemplating a dog-ring gear box in the not-to-distant future. I'm piddling with starting a manual transmission drag racing club in my area. Which means competing against Lencos..... If you're going to do that, don't. LOL. Make sure that manual classes have true manuals. No faceplated transmissions, no lenco or jericho transmissions. Basically you'll have the class to yourself hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 I don't want to thread jack, so I will just indulge one more post on racing manuals. I definitely want to have classes. I've been reading a lot on drag racing manuals. I will eventually be setting money aside bit by bit for one of MTI's sequentials ($25k). The dog-ring T56 is the first step at $10k, and that doesn't include a clutch. A man's gotta have a dream... I'm thinking that full throttle shifting has to be easier on the drivetrain than all the off-power and on-power whip lashing I'm doing to the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 25, 2014 Author Share Posted March 25, 2014 Got some mud laid down on the "roll pan". Still need to give it a final prep, and then some paint, but it looks much better than before. Started test fitting the Magnum T56 Handy silicone coupler for a template Done Also started piecing together my fuel system. Ugh. I have a lot of fittings and line to buy. This will all be on the bottom of the tank... for clarification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 I'm going with a Aeromotive A1000 and a Corvette filter/return. It'll support up to 1000hp FI ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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